Foe

Wordbiker
That is an excellent idea, and one I do not think I have seen used in any mods.

musclecars&computers

Something like this?
Were the text is that grey is the LCD then u have the kinda frame of the PR flame design. Behind that can be chrome, brushed aluminum or the actuall case doesn't matter.

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Lokie

Wednesday it is....I have some questions on the PSU, It arived today as well.

mnpctech

Lets keep concentrating on how to entice more sponsers.

The intent for an external plaque is to Supersize the sponser names without cluttering or the look of PRT. Incorporating an LCD in the plaque was just pimping it out further.

"Your logo will be laser cut from carbon fiber on a display plaque"... that will grab their attention

Quote: What about the possibility of rigging it to be able to be mounted on the case too (for transport and an alternative display method perhaps)?

Good idea, keep transporting everything inclusive for Gary.

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mnpctech

Anyone know when Twizted will be back from his trip?

I need to know the status on recent paypal donations to the project. If hes heard back from DangerDen or not.

Thank you

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Lokie

Tried his cell phone and no answar..... If no answer tomarrow I will call his folks.

Lokie

Left a message again on Twizteds phone.....No answer at his folks house....Ok now I'm worried!

beachbum86

Damn, i hope he is alright. Maybe they went on a camping trip or somthin.....

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musclecars&computers

Quote: Originally Posted by beachbum86 Damn, i hope he is alright. Maybe they went on a camping trip or somthin.....

I thought they all went somewhere sunny?

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mnpctech

Lokie,

I need to know whos made donations to PRT since Twizted's departure, if you or whomever has access to the account, just email me the info. Thanks!

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prime-evil

I stopped in last night and left my second donation. It's the easiest way for me to help at the moment. Things may be loosening up for me soon and hopefully I will be able to spend more time here.
I heard from Bill via my Yahoo email and he wanted to chat by Skype, but I won't be equipped to do that for at least a few days. I was to hear back from him via email after his talk with BeachBum, but haven't heard from him...
I also read through much of the posts on the work log, and am very excited about what this project may yield. I'm glad to see that you're thinking of including some carbon fiber. I'm willing to help with this if you like; I can offer what I've learned over the years, and possibly some hands-on time.
While carbon fiber sheet, angle and tube stock can be purchased and machined or milled into shape, the real fun begins with carbon fiber forming with dry graphite cloth and epoxy resin.
In a nutshell:
The techniques involved in working with graphite (carbon fiber) lay-ups are similar to those working with fiberglass, except that you don't have the luxury of using a gelcoat. The gelcoat in a fiberglass lay-up is basically the same epoxy resin used in the rest of the laminating process but with a filler added to make the gelcoat thicker and opaque. This thickened resin drives the air bubbles out of the initial layers of the lamination so that the finished part should only need a wet sanding when removed from the form or mold. for instance, the gelcoat is what you are looking at when you step into a fiberglass bathtub. Gelcoats can be obtained in many colors and can be easily polished.
With carbon fiber/graphite lamination, gelcoats (usually black or grey) can be used, but using one will eliminate the "black cloth weave" look that everyone likes. To keep the weave visible it's necessary to lay-up your graphite cloth with a clear epoxy resin free of any fillers and the thinner consistency is what makes graphite laminating a big pain. Without employing the proper techniques, you'll end up with a finished surface that has hundreds of air bubbles in between the fibers at the part surface that will need to be opened up, filled and repaired with clear resin sanded and wet sanded. The other problem with using clear resins without fillers is that due to gravity, the epoxy resins flow to the bottom of the lay-up from the vertical surfaces and pool. Even a small mass of resin will exotherm, heat up and cause the clear finish to cloud up or yellow. This defect can not be buffed out.
The solution is to employ the vacuum bagging technique. The model or mold needs to be rigid enough to withstand at least 15 PSI of pressure because after the lay-up is quickly assembled (using a resin with a very slow cure rate) and covered with a careful selection of breather plies and release films. Then it is placed in a nylon bag and hooked up to a vacuum pump or a vacuum generator (venturi-type device that converts air pressure to vacuum). The breather plies keep the resin in and allow the air out. The release film keep the nylon bag from sticking to the back of the part. The positive air pressure on the outside of the bag generated by the vacuum pushes all the resin down to the mold surface of the part (including the vertical surfaces) and ensures the absence of air bubbles. It's important to note that because of these pressures, the mold needs to be substantial. Generally a fiberglass, solid wood or metal mold is used. (Foam or an existing part can be used for a model from which to produce a fiberglass mold, but foam or a unstable model will collapse under these pressures. Don't use plaster, it retains too much moisture, graphite does not work well with moisture). There's certainly a lot more (and a lot of practice) to this technique but you will be rewarded by obtaining some quality parts. I've found that attempting to laminate with carbon fiber is pretty much pointless without vacuum bagging.
The ultimate solution (used in auto and aerospace manufacturing is the use of carbon fiber prepregs (pre-impregnated fibers). In this technique, a very slow curing epoxy resin is saturated into the graphite cloth, run through rollers and frozen to -10 degrees F. The prepreg is shipped frozen, and stored that way until just before use and has a "out time" (out of the freezer before cure) that can be predetermined and controlled by the resin type. The prepreg is thawed out before use and can be cut into shape and placed in the mold. Being sticky, it tacks to the mold much like an adhesive film. No wet resin is necessary. Once the desired number of plies are applied, the lay-up is vacuum bagged and cured in an autoclave under heat and with pressures up to 100 PSI. When these parts are stripped from a properly polished mold, there is no sanding, polishing necessary. These parts look like jewelry and the process is so clean it's actually fun. Sadly, it's not a process that is home workshop friendly, unless you have a large freezer and can find a shop in your area that will sell you autoclave time.
At any rate, I hope I've given you some ideas. As time allows I hope to start a graphite based project with a complete work log and technique guide. In the meantime I'm open to answer any questions and assist as much as I can.
I also see that you're going with a silver carbon fiber now. I've never used it, and am very interested. Are you thinking of laminating or utilizing stock?

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beachbum86

Hiya Prime, very glad to see you posting again

So far what we came up with is complete fabrication for every part.. i would like to find a good deal on some rigid sheets for the left side panel and the false floor beneath the psu, but you know the saying "you can wish in one hand and crap in the other, see which gets filled first" so probably end up making a laminate for those too.

for the top radiator air duct piece, i will be using a mold that hasn't been chosen yet. and as for the right side panel, no specifics beside some air vents have been discussed in detail.

your involvement in this portion of the work log is very much appreciated

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prime-evil

Quote: Originally Posted by beachbum86 Hiya Prime, very glad to see you posting again So far what we came up with is complete fabrication for every part.. i would like to find a good deal on some rigid sheets for the left side panel and the false floor beneath the psu, but you know the saying "you can wish in one hand and crap in the other, see which gets filled first" so probably end up making a laminate for those too. for the top radiator air duct piece, i will be using a mold that hasn't been chosen yet. and as for the right side panel, no specifics beside some air vents have been discussed in detail. your involvement in this portion of the work log is very much appreciated

Feel free to discuss the exact specifics of the parts. Sizes, thicknesses and shapes. I may be able to help.

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beachbum86

well for the side panels i know that we'll probly have to double up on the cloth just to make sure no light bleeds through the weave (good CF should have a tight weave, but just to be safe).

like i said the pm, ill try some concept sketches...but my sketch up skills arent good at all. Bill seems to be very good at it though.

The biggest thing now is to find deals on a roll of Silver CF.

-EDIT-

Here is my crappy sketch-up concept, now keep in mind this is just to give an overall idea....the real one will have no sharp edges at all.....all smoooooth rounded goods. is these kind of vents what you had in mind Bill? maybe not as many or more, or not as big maybe bigger. the front wont be open like that..i dont know how to make a round front in sketch-up...but this is just for vents.

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mnpctech

youre good w/ sketchup Adam!, but before sketching anything else yet, I'm gonna recruit a good friend of mine, Pieter Bijleveld aka dutchcedar from WizD to draw out the images I shared with Adam. He does CAD and sketchs for a living. The man knows his stuff. It would also be beneficial to present professional concept drawings when making appeals for sponsership.

Give me a few days to connect with dutchcedar.

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Lokie