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| | #42 (permalink) | |
| Hey T2, Thanks for the info.. Westmin isn't that far from here.. might go down pick up the switches and get some Pho ![]() $5 isn't bad at all SAD PS - I will be using a little bondo on this project to cover some rough spots. I used bondo on one of my case mod, and mixing to the right consistency was a pain. I used a lot of bondo, so I had to get the one with the hardener mix. Is there any "PreMixed" bondo? I don't need much. It would save me so much time. THanks in advance. Last edited by SuAsDu; 27-July-06 at 12:32 AM.. | ||
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| | #43 (permalink) | ||||||||||||||||||||||||
You might be able to use spot putty. It might not be as strong, but if you only need small amounts... | |||||||||||||||||||||||||
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| | #44 (permalink) | |
| Hey Snowman, I was thinking thinking of using the spot putty, but wasn't sure if it woudl work by well. Bascially I will be putting a sheet of alum onto the front panel, to bascially redesign teh layout. I will already have something to bond the alum to the faceplace, I just need something to fill the edge where it overlaps. I just need it to make it look smooth, not hold the parts together. thanks ![]() SAD | ||
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| | #46 (permalink) | |
| Snowman.. Cool.. that will be perfect then. Real bondo you have to mix is such pain to work with. I can never get it the right shade of "Pink". The moment I think I mixed the right amount of hardener, it is rock hard already ![]() So the spot putty in the tub will be perfect ![]() SAD | ||
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| | #49 (permalink) | ||||||||||||||||||||||||
Here you go SAD ATI (Connect3D) Radeon X850 XT Platinum Edition 256MB DDR3/PCI-E/VIVO/Dual-DVI (Retail Box)Code: 190666 Price: $169.99 Should be Great for some BF2 | |||||||||||||||||||||||||
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| | #50 (permalink) | |
| T2 - Thank you very much you Shopping PIMP!! ![]() I have most all parts lined up arleady. This is going to be a WC SLI Rig Hmm.. I noticed I didn't mentions the guts of this beast yet.. It will be a surprise as it comes ![]() SAD | ||
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| | #52 (permalink) | |
| Hey folks here is a little update. Lot of my goodies arrived, so I had a chance to work on the bottom watercooling / power chamber for the case mod. As you know this bottom portion will house all the watercooling parts and power. In addition, I will be mounting the slot DVD Rom and Hard drive in this section. The main reason I am doing this is to remove unnecessary clutter from the top chamber, which will allow full views of the pc components, and give the case a cleaner look. In addition, it is just a little different to have a DVD come out the side of the case Here is the new booty. ![]() I decided to use ePower / Topower Tiger 650 SLI PSU. EPower / Topower OEM PSU to some of the best companies out there. I figure might as well get the PSU from the original manufacturer. This PSU has so much BLING to it. I love the fact that has a mirror fininish, and all cables are completely modular. This will make it a bit easier to chop and mod each cable to custom lengths. * Here are my watercooling components. I think Danger Den has the best looking and performing watercooling parts on the market right now. You can see I have the Koosah SLI blocks, GT Stealth 240 BIP, TDX CPU Block w/ Universal mount, (2) D Mag II pumps, and 3/8” ID Tubing. I made sure to get the GPU blocks with the 4 hole barb configuration to allow me to plumb the system any way I need. Enough of the booty, now back to the modding Here is a before and after picture of the bottom chamber. You can see that there are two flanges that are in the design to hold the CD and HD drives. Since they are in the way, I decided to chop it off. This really opens up the bottom chamber. I will actually be doing the same modification to the top chamber later. ![]() ![]() I will be mounting the PSU on the bottom chamber. Since there is limited room, I didn’t want to starve the PSU from air, which might cause power flucation, or even just shortern the life of the unit. The PSU will be mounted pretty much directly on the bottom tray, so I cut a 120mm hole to allow the PSU to bring in fresh air from out side the case for cooling. Instead of having to draw a 120mm hole, I found out that a CD is about the same size as a 120mm fan. I used a 3/8” bit to drill some pilot holes, and use my jig saw to cut the case. You can see that the final hole was pretty close. ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() So with all space made on the bottom tray, I decided to do a dry fit of all the components. You will get an idea how the components will be laid out on the bottom tray. There may appear to be a lot of extra room, but that will be taken up by power cables and tubing. I need the extra room to be able to effectively run and hide the wires and plumbing. ![]() ![]() I am pretty happy with the layout. Now I need to fabricate some custom shelf / rack for the DVD and HD, along with closing off the back of the case. I hope to get the bottom chamber completely done by this weekend. I hope you enjoyed the update so far. More updates to come shortly. Any comments or suggestions are always welcomed. Regards, SAD Last edited by SuAsDu; 05-March-07 at 11:37 PM.. | ||
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| | #54 (permalink) | |
| Hey Seye, As of right now.. no optical or anything in the top optical bay. I have something a little differnet planned Stay tuned. The top chamber modding should probably start sometime next week. I need to finish the bottom this weekend ![]() SAD | ||
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| | #56 (permalink) | |
| SB218, Great to hear from you man!!! I need some WC help from the high desert .Any suggestion on how to get a true "Yellow" water cooling mix? I used the Dyelite you gave me and coolant.. it came out Yellowish Green. And suggestion on how to get it closer to true yellow uv? SAD | ||
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| | #57 (permalink) | ||||||||||||||||||||||||
As of right now I have no clue, tonight I'll see if there is any yellow Dye-Lite. Also are you looking for yellow or does it need to be UV reactive yellow? EDIT: You got PM. Last edited by SPECIALBLEND218; 28-July-06 at 08:15 PM.. | |||||||||||||||||||||||||
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