Hey, this isnt exactly a a pc mod, but I am building them for my pc, I guess.

Anyways, I picked up these little bueaties.



Trust me, they sound amazing and are perfect for those producing.

Now, I thought I'd go ahead and make bozes for them, one problem. I've never done this before.

But I'll take my best shot at it.






So today, I went out to lowes and bought some fiberboard, which I hear is used for speaker boxes.





Yah, I know, its way more wood than I'll need, but 3/4" thick fiberboard, 49"x97" for 17$!

Also got some essentials.





NOW, I know there are tricks and tips on building these, so I am open to ANYTHING you guys have to say.

Now I'm off to Sketchup to start designing these things!

as far as i know.. LOTS of glue, no screws. MDF is used in making of speaker boxes (sub boxes) so your off to the right start there. Theres not much else, only other thing is for the subs is if you should make it ported or not (ported just means theres a port that allows excess air to push out of the box) Unported i think is more controlled bass and ported is less control (more boom) not positive. GOOD LUCK!

Thank you for the input.

Soooooo, should I use a vent or no? they had a vent before, so I'll stick with using a vent.

Well, It's all measured and ready to be cut, anyone know if lowes will cut wood for you? They did cut the enourmous slab that was 49x97 into 4th's.

i know the home depot will only do rough cuts (big pieces into smaller rough cuts) i doubt they'll cut it for you. might be worht picking up a jig saw or a circular man. If they came with the port then stick with it. If you need to buy one head over to crutchfield.com and go to the audio section and int othe subwoofer area and they sell the ports.

Thaks, I'll order some of those ports and ome speaker terminals.

looks good oh btw i have that same touch lamp

hehe
http://www.crutchfieldadvisor.com/IS...build_box.html
http://www.termpro.com/articles/buildbox.html
http://www.diysubwoofers.org/faq.htm
http://www.electronixwarehouse.com/e...sures/main.htm

Here's a question, most audio equipment has a wierd rough black finish, anyone know waht it is? Sorta like, rubbery I guess. I did buy some Plasti-dip spray paint, thought that would be the closest to it.


edit\ I jsut tried out the plasti-dip on a small area of an extra piece of fiberboard, I love it!!!! It's just the type of finish I'm looking for!

Just make sure that you pull up the specs on the drivers and make a correctly sized enclosure. If you want to get fancy, having no right angles and no parallel sides reduces standing waves while looking really cool. Otherwise, make sure that you add in the proper dampening and maybe a brace. If you have a router, sink the rim of the driver into the MDF a little, it will improve the sound. I reccomend putting the crossovers in a section that's easily accessible for the beginning, while you get them working.

Best of luck to you!

I do plan on purchasing some sound dampening fabric...stuff...., well, here, this stuff.

http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showd...number=260-525

http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/pshow...44&rak=260-540

http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showd...number=260-296

Some of the things I will be buying.

Also, all I know is that with one woofer and tweeter, it is 165w.

computerman u r indeed correct!!
a ported speaker/sub enclosure will give u a more vibrant " vvvvvvvooooooooommmmmmmmm " ( if you know wat i mean?! lol )
and a non ported enclosure will give the bass more control!
one BIG tip though, get some speaker wadding, ask at ur local componant store like maplins ( uk )
that will stop the bass from sounding hollow/midrange bass.
so yep, use loads of glue.
use wadding.
use a crossover. ( not sure wether active/passive though )
take ur time with the cuts, dont want any gaps, u want 2 make it air tight man!!
and to make the bass even more controlled try 2 incorporate a section of mdf inside each enclosure to seperate ur bass drivers from ur tweeters, thus isolating bass from topend ( tweeters )
trust me i did this when iwas about 13 and they sounded awesome!!!
and what cable connectors will u use on the back?
also one last thing, try and get a speaker carpet/covering for the boxes, this will also improve the overall sound! thats me finished!! sorry 4 the lonnnng post dude, good luck

Look on the backs of the drivers for part numbers, that will help you find data sheets. I don't know how to calculate optimal volume for an enclosure, however, there is software that does that.

As for active/passive crossovers, passives are typically the way to go for home speakers. Only times I see actives in use are on cars or on weird home setups.

i could be wrong (just started getting big into learning about car adio) aren't you going to need an amp to power the woofer and tweeters? if so you can usually buy ones with crossovers built it.

I recall from a Radio Shack book I read that there is a golden raito to building speaker boxes. You want the box to be roughly 160% taller than it is wide, and its depth should be 60% of the width. There are also formulas for figuring out the port hole diameter and length; HERE is a little something on that subject.

Although you don't have to follow those guidelines, it will help sound quality. Looks like you are on the right path with all of your parts. As far as cutting, I think both Lowes and the 'depot sell a cheap ($20-$30) saw like the one I have. It is a SkilSaw 5400, 2.3 HP, 12 amps. The deck is a little flimsy for construction (brought it to work a few times and it got banged up kind of easily) but for around the house type cutting it is great. Cuts very straight right out of the box.

If you can't get a circular saw, I hope you find someone to help you. I wouldn't recommend using a jigsaw for the straigh cuts. If you have ever tried to, then you already know why a circular saw is the ticket. I would hand saw before using a jigsaw for straight cuts. Other than that, I think you can build it in no time. Good luck and post back with more questions or results!!!

Quote: Originally Posted by mrmobeus2001 computerman u r indeed correct!! a ported speaker/sub enclosure will give u a more vibrant " vvvvvvvooooooooommmmmmmmm " ( if you know wat i mean?! lol ) and a non ported enclosure will give the bass more control! one BIG tip though, get some speaker wadding, ask at ur local componant store like maplins ( uk ) that will stop the bass from sounding hollow/midrange bass. so yep, use loads of glue. use wadding. use a crossover. ( not sure wether active/passive though ) take ur time with the cuts, dont want any gaps, u want 2 make it air tight man!! and to make the bass even more controlled try 2 incorporate a section of mdf inside each enclosure to seperate ur bass drivers from ur tweeters, thus isolating bass from topend ( tweeters ) trust me i did this when iwas about 13 and they sounded awesome!!! and what cable connectors will u use on the back? also one last thing, try and get a speaker carpet/covering for the boxes, this will also improve the overall sound! thats me finished!! sorry 4 the lonnnng post dude, good luck

Oh man, you guys are loads of help, but anyways. Can you maybe give me a little mofr info on seperating the woofer from the tweeter.

Nice project Waffles, I shall be watching this log closely as I have a set of Technics speakers that I plan to build a new enclosure for...

Keep it up dude

hmm well since the subs aren't directional they can go anywhere (like the floor) tweeters though are directional (you want them pointing to the audience) so i would think (not sure though because of how you wana set it up) encase the tweeters seperatly. or, make the boxes bigger, and make them into compartments one for the sub and one for the tweeter. im sure some one else will be here to check me but seems like that should work.

I would try something like this. If you put them in the same box

Well, Shetchups fun!



I'll go ahead and attempt to make a divider.

computerman ur right again and killert thats the kind of isolation i was on about!!
basically you have bass and treble controls on an amp yes!
but the amp needs too know what speakers to send low frequencies (hz) too and which to send high frequencies (khz) too
otherwise you'll have bass going through the tweeters ( really not good when cranked up!!!!! ).
just watch them pop!!! hence the need for a crossover!! ( this is sometimes just a simple resister style block.)
best bet is go too a library and get a book on speaker and sub enclosures.
also i heard someone mention dimentions, again correct! u need too get the right dimentions for the speakers, something like.............actual speaker size x max power output x ported or non ported x size of room.
and also yes the subs can be pretty much placed anywhere but in an enclosure ( small space ) the positioning can have an effect on the dynamics of the bass!!
i know its a lot too take in m8, why do u think a set of kefs or b&w's cost so much?!
good luck and if u need any advice gimme a shout!!

Looks like my picture just a lot better.