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Old 09-August-05, 11:16 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Project Custom acrilic grill

I have just finished buliding my first evel 120mm fan grill and I've decided to do the same on my side window fan (80mm) that now has a pctoys biohazard fan grill. But instead of metal that I used for the last one I wanted to use a discarded acrilic windows I have , I have outlined the shape using the pctoys grill and masked all around it. no her eis the question.. so far I have been using the fiberglass reinforced cutting disk. but I have noticed that in tends to met the acrilic... so is this in your opinion a good tool for this work, or should I get a new dremel piece??? the pic is pending aproval but I'll post it as soon as Is aproved...


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Old 09-August-05, 03:46 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mmaturen
I have just finished buliding my first evel 120mm fan grill and I've decided to do the same on my side window fan (80mm) that now has a pctoys biohazard fan grill. But instead of metal that I used for the last one I wanted to use a discarded acrilic windows I have , I have outlined the shape using the pctoys grill and masked all around it. no her eis the question.. so far I have been using the fiberglass reinforced cutting disk. but I have noticed that in tends to met the acrilic... so is this in your opinion a good tool for this work, or should I get a new dremel piece??? the pic is pending aproval but I'll post it as soon as Is aproved...


Cheers

Cutting plexiglass can be a pain; there are different types (Plexiglas, Lexan, Lucite, cast acrylic) and if you generate too much heat when cutting, some types of plexi melt, clog the blade and the the two cut sections stick together again.
Cut slowly as to not generate heat or friction. For my taste,a fiber-reinforced disk is the WORST way, but some guys are Ok with it. Fine toothed bandsaw or scroll saw is preferred, and with some skill a saber saw will work. If the plexi starts gumming up you are going too fast or pushing into the work too hard. Some guys use an air compressor with a blower to cool the work as they cut.
After rough cutting, I have a router mounted upside down in a bench top, (like a wood shaper) and with fluted cutter bits I can machine down to the line. BUT THIS CAN BE TRICKY, WATCH THOSE FINGERS! I don't recommend this for hard to hold items like a fan guard unless you are very skilled or have made a jig to hold the work. Rotary files in a dremel (multi purpose bit 9011) will work, but you will have to watch the speed and avoid heat build up.
If you're new to this, be patient and practice on scrap till you get the feeds and speeds to where you're comfortable and getting a clean cut without gumming up.

Last edited by prime-evil; 09-August-05 at 08:15 PM..
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Old 09-August-05, 04:31 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Can't wait to see the pic.
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Old 09-August-05, 04:51 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Here is the Pic of how aI have masked the acrilic.. I will however practive on another corner on this pice of acrilic. exelent advice Prime-evil... You got rep..
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Old 09-August-05, 05:53 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Default Here's an update...

I decide to cut the acrilic using the dremel...( got bored at home). The thickness of the acrilic is 3mm so using the reinforced fiberglass cutting disk I cut along the outside of the template I draw on the acrilic, the speed was four and a let it cool down betwen cuts to remove the melted material.. here is what I got at the end:



Then I took a coarse sanding disc (NO.411) an use it to smoothe down te previous work, for the place were I would put the screws. I used the 430 sanding Piece. I got really happy with the results:



I have not decided on the inner Desing yet, however I would take suggestions and any imput.. I'll update as soon as I do anything

Last edited by mmaturen; 09-August-05 at 06:12 PM..
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