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| | #1 (permalink) | |
| I bought some of the UV LED's thats MustangP51 sells and made a small 10 LED array out of them.. Gotta order more now anyway I have not decide what to do with it yet lol I just built it to have something to do...I cant get any good pics with it in action lol... oh well.. | ||
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| | #9 (permalink) | |
| Think so? I could do better on my soldering.. Its just I was bored and sleepy and lol.. well.. you know... I am going to go to Ratshack later and get some Transistors and what not to make a HDD array also need more Project boards... Last night I made a battery powered (Push and Play) LED tester lol... nice compact lil unit.. houses 2 AA batteries and you just push an led into the plug I mounted in it and you are good to go... anyway I just go up and still kinda cloudy eyed so I am going to quit my ranting and motivate... | ||
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| | #15 (permalink) | |
| well thanks to certain rules, laws, and suggestions of electronics. this is what i came up with. for alot of reasons. its suggested that you DO NOT drive two or more LEDs in parallel with a single current limiting resistor because the LED with the lowest forward voltage will pull the voltage down to that level. if you run in series you add up all the forward voltages to get one big forward voltage. your power source must put out that voltage or more. now you dont have to follow those things but you arent running the LEDs as brightly as possible. so in my design it might use more parts but it is more technicaly sound. so in my design if the LEDs are rated 3.7 volts and 20 milliamps (0.020 amps) the resistors should be 600 ohms if the power source is 12 volts. there is also a reson for why the resistors are after the cathode. | ||
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| | #18 (permalink) | |
| 39 ohm resistor... And yes thats pretty much how I made it.. I was just tinkering... I would have done better but I had a limited supply source lol ... The resisitor came out of my box-o-sh*t (various bits I had taking out of old usless electronics) the jumpers were from the LED's as were the connection rails on the bottom of the PCB... The whole setup produced more heat due to my design (which was spur of the moment in my head thought up lol) I should have broke out the old PC Electronics workbench to test it.... I have took it apart and am going to use the LEDs for a HDD array as soon as I can get to the RatShack.... If I were to do that one over I would have used a series design with multiple resistors etc.... BTW would you explain teh reason for the resistors being on the cathode side? Oh.. and btw the whole array was equally bright with no problems there just didnt like the design after I had looked at it and played with it a while... have a rather interesting HDD level indicator coming soon ![]() | ||
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| | #19 (permalink) | |
| Oh and BA... As far as best... I dont really think it would be a matter of best as much as the fact it works I mean best would depend on fundage and quality of parts available and as I am on the po end of the pimp'n game mine would look much like the above on a premade RatShack PCB but as long as it functions properly its all good ![]() | ||
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