TheModBrothers.Com isn’t just about these two guys, it’s a state of mind. TheModBrothers.com goals are to educate and inspire new modders (newbs), and build stronger bonds with those that have shared this passion for nearly a decade. In anticipation of The Mod Brother's official launch, it's only appropriate to perform a kickass mod to help spread the word about TheModBrothers.Com

What makes this project even more viral is giving this case away for FREE! All you have to do is post 1 comment when the giveaway is announced on the CaseModBlog.Com I'll keep you updated as to when it's posted.

If theres one case getting a lot of attention today, it's the new Antec Three Hundred. For under $60, it packs a lot of features with decent cooling and the superior build quality we've come to expect from Antec. In only 1 month, my YouTube review of the Antec 300 received over 12,000 views



Antec 300 Three Hundred awaits it's first incision


To draw out your design, I'll first apply either #2060 Green or #2090 Blue "low tack" painter's tape by Scotch/3M.
You can buy these Home Depot or Ace Hardware stores. You also apply tape so you don't scratch up the panel with the jigsaw's steel guard. I always use a measuring square for windows


Window corner, but how do you make a curved corner instead?, for inserting U-channel molding later


For making corners, use a roll of tape! The smaller the roll, the smaller your arc




Whenever I make a side panel window, I always use a jigsaw with a 18 TPI (teeth per inch) bi-metal cutting blade. I'll make the intial incision for the jigsaw blade with a rotary tool and 1.5" reinforced dremel cutting wheel


I use a Black & Decker jigsaw with a 18 TPI (teeth per inch) bi-metal cutting blade.


Window is cut and ready for refinements, ie: clean up the edges and corners


I'll use a rounded side file for detailing it's straight edges and corners


Before I install the window, I debate about using something other than clear plexi, Maybe translucent Blue or Yellow to fit the Mod Brothers logo?


Towards the end of the video review I noted the front bezel is a good canidate for injecting your own design.. Heres whats involved with the Antec's front bezel.. The removable filter and perforated mesh grill are easily removed.








For the "new" front intake, a piece of 3/16" thick blue translucent acrylic will be provide a back plate support for a mod brothers 240 (2x 120mm fan) intake grill.

E.E.L. Ambiense (Jeremy Birch) is behind it's design.

To support the new intake plate, I'm using the lower 5.25 bay cover, below I'm using DP-190 2 part epoxy to keep it in place permanently, you need to use gloves and smear the 2 part into the crevices (not shown)





The Antec 300's perforated rear fan grill providea decent airflow, but I prefer using my own grills. You can use a Tin-snips to remove the outter portion of the perforated grill. I prefer a cleaner look, so I marked off an octagon border around the rear exhuast grill.





1.5" cutting wheel kicking up sparks!




Hand filing the edges

I'm gonna blow this case's cover..hehe

Armed with power drill and 1/8" drill bit, I remove all of the pesky pop-rivets


we don't really need this or do we? Ideas are brewing :scratch:


Top panel ready to lose it's inner core


Where did it go?!


Another look w/o the tape



Jeremy drew up this front intake grill and rear exhaust grill designs with the appropriate "MB" for "Mod Brothers" of course.. I'm going to have cnc milled from 3/16" THICK 6061 aluminum



Freakin awesome work Jeremy!

this notch cut-out is pretty standard procedure modding for me. I know that some of customers have had to do this as well when using my 120mm fan grills over rear exhausts, the frame is large and overlaps the folded lip on cases. This was another reason why I'm revising my fan grill designs this year. None the less, the original grills are still moving



The case will be painted later, so no worries about the filed edge


snug as a bed bug now...


Maybe you've needed to add a Thumbscrew hole for securing something on your project? The industry's standard thread size for computer case thumbscrews is 6/32 thread... Lian Li uses M3

Here I'm using a 6/32 drill bit to make a new hole in the case panerl and chassis, I used tape to secure the panel onto the chassis, Or C-clamp work great for this


6/32 Tap




We're back to having a secure side panel


Brad's von dutch style pinstriping done during Ric Mirto's party on Mnpctech's 14" Grizzly Vertical saw 8)


I love old school toggle on/off switches, thats why Mnpctech offers these Machined Billet 5.25 Toggle switch plate bay covers
Use the plate to trace out your holes


Every Modder should own a drill press, 1/2" chuck


I use my drill press frequently for case modding,




Just pre-fitting this standard $1.99 toggle switch, I may use something else, maybe with led



#10, x 5/8 stainless steel button head machine screws of mounting the switch plate

Chances are, I wasn't the first to swap the mounting screws from the billet grills and 5.25" plates with button-head screws... but I like to think I was...

I know that you know that there are chromed button-head screws out there, Bill... They look awesome with the billet pieces all polished up...

As far as the switches, are you thinking about the ones with the LEDs mounted in the tips? If you find them, could you let us mere mortals know where to find them as well?

Standing by for more modding mayhem...

I'm pretty sure you were the first! Great ideas dude! yea, the led tip ones are sweet. I bought the switches at Red Rooster Auto parts, a local auto parts store, the manufacturer is "Pilot"

Heres the premilinary drawing Slaymate was kind enuf to do for me, Thank you Dan!

After seeing this sketch by confusis, for the bit-tech sketch-up contest, I had an idea for doing something similar to his side panel design, but as a top panel. I recieved a 2' x 1' sheet of 1-1/4" thick clear acylic for milling this. Instead of using a single 120mm fan like confusis did, I'm adding 2x 120mm fans in the center in single file towards the rear. The 2x 120mm fans will mount beneath the the cover with the fins going over the fan blades. Maybe .5" wide fins, 3/4" tall... At the front, a 45 degree 1.5" x 4" space for a custom badge.



15 lbs, 2' x 1' clear acrylic, 1-1/4" thick

Heck, with acrylic that thick, you could start an LED array that would have Lokie and Twizted up all weekend getting it done... Something like 3 or 4 rows deep, all the way around... Use that as your HDD activity meter, or have it pulse, or, or... or... Plus, with the drill press, you could not only drill all the holes in record time, but you could KNOW that the rows of holes are straight as an arrow...

I'd love to have those guys get involved. I will kick around some ideas on where/who something custom like that could be implemented

I could flip the PSU, but this will be a good exercise on adding a fan hole to your case, plus I enjoy a bit of modding too. I'm going to make my own ventilation hole for the PSU, this will be 92mm.

For performing this mod, I prefer using a Greenlee Knockout Punch. These punches are expensive to purchase, So if you wish to follow this mod on your own, I suggest using a Hole saw attachment on a Power Drill.

Greenlee knockout punch and neccessary tools. this setup is 120mm holes, everything was just under $600 new


Hole saws are used for cutting fan holes in acrylic and metal.

Heres the metric fan hole sizes in relation to available hole saw attachments

80mm = 3” hole saw
92mm = 3.5” hole saw
120mm = 4.5” hole saw

To use a hole saw, you need an Arbor for attaching the hole saw to your drill.

First, I tape off the bottom with 3M low tack masking tape


I'm positioning 92mm wire fan grill










3.5" Greenlee knockout punch








U-channel molding, UChannel

My original idea when talking to Jeremy's (E.E.L.) about the front grill design, was to use it as an intake grill, having the fans positioned in their factory cages, but as I stated earlier, the cages are off-center.. So as Steve was about to start milling the intake grill, I caught a future glimpse of off-center blue led fans. ("hold up Steve") Instead I want the option of mounting 2x 120mm fans directly on the backside of the grill. This required going back into cad and changing the grill proportions and removing one lower grill slot to allow space for the fan mounting screws. A small sacrifice, but I believe it will look much better with the fans mounted directly onto the grill

The grill is 1/4" thick 8-)

1/4" thick baby 8)


Cutting off sides


beveling edges

Anyone know of another midtower case that compares to the Antec 300 in value? please let me know, Thanks!

Cutting off sides


beveling edges




I just need to sand the edges and use a red scotchbrite pad, "MB" The Mod Brothers Grill

Front translucent blue acrylic intake will go here

Luv the blue front panel -

I think that thar be my favorite color of blue acrylic !

Lookin really good....

Quote: Originally Posted by MDCRL Luv the blue front panel - I think that thar be my favorite color of blue acrylic !

Heres where I buy my translucent acrylic MD, Translucent Cast Acrylic Plexiglass Sheet

Heres another Antec 300 I modified for a customer. (not mod brothers case)

They didn't want to mount their PSU upside down, so I made this 92mm hole in the floor beneath the PSU with u-channel for $30

I also made a custom side panel window for $50 (+ return shipping)

I'm tracing this 5.25 machined billet bay cover over the 3/16" thick translucent blue acrylic.





Using vertical saw to cut acrylic




10/32 socket head screw

Quote: Originally Posted by mnpctech Anyone know of another midtower case that compares to the Antec 300 in value? please let me know, Thanks!

Got something for you Bill if you are looking for a good deal on these Antec 300 cases...

Newegg has the Antec Three Hundred Black ATX Mid Tower Computer Case for $55 - $15 coupon SAVECAMP0908A = $40 with free shipping.

That seriously rawks Feral, Thanks for sharing that tip