I found a nice, cheap, wooden box at Bombay Furniture Co. the other day. It was missing one of the photo albums and the hinges on the door were missing three screws, but it was marked down from $76 (USD) to $23 and it is (almost) the perfect size for a micro ATX motherboard.

Bombay has filed for bankruptcy and has been purchased by a liquidator so if you want to browse cheap furniture and trinkets, I highly recommend it.

The inside of the box measures 21.5 cm deep, 24.2 cm wide, and 18.7 cm high. Tight, but doable, but probably not with an optical drive.

As you can see there is a spot to insert a 4x6 inch picture on the top of the box, and I will probably leave it open and put a little cold cathode light inside the system.

I already have a set of hardware I want to put inside the box (same as my last project):

-PCChips A33G motherboard. Has a PCIe slot and up to 1000MHz front side bus.
-AMD Sempron 64 3000+ 1.6GHz with 256K L2 cache CPU (SDA3000IAA3CN).
-Zogis Geforce 7300LE 256meg (512 TuboCache) low-profile vid card.
-One gig of A-Data DDR2 800 SDRAM.
-2.5inch 40-gig Fujitsu SATA drive.
-And possibly a Zyxel G-302 U3 54Mbps wifi adapter.

All this is already sitting in a mid-tower case I got free-after-rebate about a year ago.

Now here are the issues to overcome:
-Fixing the box.
-Will the magnets that keep the door closed interfere with the electronics?
-Air flow.
-Fitting a 24.4cm wide motherboard into a 24.2cm space.

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Well, fixing the hinge and door was not so difficult as long as I didn't mind using nails rather than searching for 6mm screws. All I did was swap the screws on the box and use them to secure the hinge to the door, then use three nails (with pilot holes drilled) on box in lue of the screws. A little wood glue, and the whole this is pretty secure. As you can see, I remembered to drill pilot holes a little late.

Now the PSU. I got this 150W supply from iDotPC.com. As you can see, the plug is not built into the PSU's housing so you can place it almost independently of the PSU placement. The thing itself is about 8.25cm x 4.44cm x 15.24cm.

If the mobo is on the bottom, then it only makes sense to put the PSU in an upper corner with the biggest surface against the side and the cables sticking down. This way you can still get an unobstructed view through the top window, and none of the vents on the PSU are obstructed.

Problem here will be securing the PSU to the "case." As you can see from the picture, there is only one screw hole on that large surface. I will probably drill a hole through the box and run a half-inch screw (cut down to just over one-quarter inch) through the box from the outside into the PSU, thus securing it on the side.

Securing it from the top (where there are two more screw holes) is more difficult due to the window frame. Only one hole is readily accessible. To secure it through the other one would require me to drill through the window frame, secure it with a screw, then fill the hole in the frame with some compound of similar color. Not impossible, but requires using delicious, delicious brains.

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I solved the issue of the size of the box by dremmeling a slot on each side, approximately 6-7mm from the bottom. I removed the motherboard from the old case and slid it in to check the sides, and the slot works great.


So I reassembled the computer, hit the power button, and no POST. Not even a POST beep. Mmmmm...

The fans all spin up (PSU fan included), as does the drive, but the HDD activity LED did nothing. No signal to the monitor, either.

I pop out the wifi pci card, the vid card, the RAM, reattach them all, nothing.

Remove the vid card, and try the on-board video, nothing.
So maybe it's the PSU. I swap it out for the above-mentioned mini 150W, turn it on... SMOKE!!! SMOKE!!

So much for that PSU. It went bye-bye. Not sure if any more damage was done to the board/CPU.

So if I decide to continue this mod, I have to either figure out what I did to the motherboard or get a new one. I probably zapped something with static, or simply reconnected something incorrectly.

I also need to order a new PSU. Perhaps a Sparkle Power 200W.

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Quote: -Will the magnets that keep the door closed interfere with the electronic

Unless they are really high powered, they will interfere with the HDD, But just to be safe, mount the HDD away from the magnets. If you were using Solid State Memory (aka Flash) You can put it near the most powerful magnet and nothing will happen.

Quote: Originally Posted by Merkwurdigliebe So I reassembled the computer, hit the power button, and no POST. Mmmmm... The fans all spin up, as does the drive, but the HDD activity LED did nothing. No signal to the monitor.

I had this same problem in the past. It turned out to be a dead PSU, but thankfully did nothing to my mobo.

Quote: So if I decide to continue this mod, I have to either figure out what I did to the motherboard or get a new one. I probably zapped something with static, or simply reconnected something incorrectly.

Well, I'm subscribing to this thread just because it looks like a neat project. I hope you continue it.

-godling

Thanks for the advice, godling. I have another PSU lying around, so now I start swapping components since I two of everything (cpu, ram, drive, mobo, vid card, etc). Eventually I will find out what is working, and what isn't. I still think I zapped something or I hooked it up wrong. It was working when I disassembled it an hour ago. Although would the absence of a POST beep indicate the PSU failed?

But at least I now have that awful burnt PSU smell out of my house.

And on the magnets: I think they are those somewhat strong new magnets that have been showing up in toys and kids have been swallowing.

Well, it's not the PSU. I swapped it out for a new one with no improvement. I even reversed the speaker connection just to be sure.

To the mobo I hooked up only:
-power
-monitor
-RAM
-CPU
-speaker
-power LED
-power switch
-Keyboard and mouse

Nothing else. I even reset the cmos. Next I will pull out the CPU and put it in a system that I know works. Then the RAM. I can probably conclude that the mobo is fried if the other two items work fine.

At least the PC Chips A33G is only $33 after rebate now. Or $28 open box!!!

Quote: Originally Posted by Merkwurdigliebe A33G is only $33 after rebate now. Or $28 open box!!!

that's not sounding too good ... let's hope it *is* the mobo and not the cpu ... or RAM ...

/Professor Farnsworth voice

Good news, everybody!



Swapped the RAM with the chips that are in the "Humidor" PC. RAM is fine.

Swapped the CPU. CPU is fine. I put the CPU and RAM from the Humidor into the "test" box, but it still doesn't give me any post beeps.

OK, so I put everything back in it's original motherboard (cleaned off and reapplied some Arctic Silver 3 I had laying about), and checked to make sure the Humidor PC still worked. Yes. *whew*

I reassemble the test box components, plug it in, turn it on... BEEP! BEEP-BEEP!

Mmmmm... Still no video though, and it usually only beeps twice. So I swap the monitor cable from the mobo to the vid card, turn on, and bingo it prompts me to go to the CMOS setup.

What when wrong (and more importantly, what went right)? Who the hell knows. Maybe everything needed to be jiggled more than three times.

I'm still debating whether or not I should snatch up another cheap A33G motherboard. Perhaps I should wait. No sense in wasting good money if I don't need to. And who knows: I can always get the newer one with the faster sata, and such.

Well, I ordered a new PSU. It's the same size as the one used in my last mod, and only slightly bigger than the one I schmoked earlier. It's a 220W flex ATX Sparkle Power. The SPI220LE. Very similar specs to the FPS200-50PLA, but the 50PLA was hard to find. Same price, too.

So the next question is airflow. I figure I have two basic choices, both of which I illustrated with my "r33t MS Paint skillz0rz." It's not really to scale, and it may be a little tighter on the right, but it should give people a good idea what I'm asking. I should also note that the PSU has a fan that draws air from the inside and pushes it though the psu and out the back.

So which flow is better? And should I use an intake fan, exhaust fan, or both?

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Quote: Originally Posted by Merkwurdigliebe So the next question is airflow. I figure I have two basic choices, both of which I illustrated with my "r33t MS Paint skillz0rz." It's not really to scale, and it may be a little tighter on the right, but it should give people a good idea what I'm asking.

Personally, the one on the right has the better airflow design. Re-routing air paths is never good for flow, though you may have some components that would benefit from the flow turn. I'd need to know where else on that mobo your graphics card is, etceteras.

Quote: So which flow is better? And should I use an intake fan, exhaust fan, or both?

Both can't hurt, though I believe the concept of "positive air pressure" inside the case (to reduce particulate build up) is based on the concept of more in-flow than out-flow. So, perhaps use two fans (particularly if you go with the drawing on the left) but use a higher CFM-rated fan for the intake than you use for the exhaust.

One interesting note (I think): with a wooden case like you have, there's the opportunity to create a rather stealthy intake and exhaust hole ... if instead of just drilling holes, you dremel / cut some rather closely-spaced verticle lines, but have them angled such that the exterior of the cut is lower than the interior, you can actually create the illusion of no fan holes when viewed from the top. Feel like putting some extra effort in there?

-godling

my computer smells of rich mahogany and many leather-bound books

Quote: Originally Posted by SpAnKy my computer smells of rich mahogany and many leather-bound books

You have no idea just how good my office smells when I use the cedar Humidor PC. The heat from the compy really helps bring out the cedar. I just want to say "cedar" one more time...cedar.

Quote: Originally Posted by godling Both can't hurt, though I believe the concept of "positive air pressure" inside the case (to reduce particulate build up) is based on the concept of more in-flow than out-flow. So, perhaps use two fans (particularly if you go with the drawing on the left) but use a higher CFM-rated fan for the intake than you use for the exhaust. One interesting note (I think): with a wooden case like you have, there's the opportunity to create a rather stealthy intake and exhaust hole ... if instead of just drilling holes, you dremel / cut some rather closely-spaced verticle lines, but have them angled such that the exterior of the cut is lower than the interior, you can actually create the illusion of no fan holes when viewed from the top. Feel like putting some extra effort in there?

If you have any links to this technique (other than mnpctech's dremel guide), I would be very interested. Otherwise I will have to get some scrap wood and practice by trial-and-error.

But you're right, I was thinking of something other than "the big hole and a fan guard." I was thinking of a cluster of 3/16 holes where the fan would go.

Either way, once I decide I will have to dig out my leftover fans to see if I have two with different cfm.

Good advice, man.

And when I get around to finishing the cut for the IO panel, I'll take a picture of the installed motherboard with all the cards on it. It will give a better picture airflow issues.

Quote: Originally Posted by Merkwurdigliebe If you have any links to this technique (other than mnpctech's dremel guide), I would be very interested. Otherwise I will have to get some scrap wood and practice by trial-and-error.

Nope, no links. But other than pure dremel, which I think would be difficult, I would suggest using the dremel to make an initial entry, and then use a bladed device, or a bare blade by hand, to finish the cut for each line.

Does that make sense?

Quote: And when I get around to finishing the cut for the IO panel, I'll take a picture of the installed motherboard with all the cards on it. It will give a better picture airflow issues.

Looking forward to it.

-godling

So with the some good advice about taping (to reduce scratches and make it easy to draw some guiding lines) I have cut the hole for the IO panel.

First I drilled some holes so I could see through the box and line up the IO panel, then I went slow and steady with the jig-saw tool. Follow this with some careful dremel routing and I get a pretty nice cut.

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I did the same with the hole for the PSU's plug. Make a mark on the inside where I eyeballed where the plug should go, drill a large hole, insert PSU then mark on the tape on the outside how much more I have to enlarge with the router.

Now there are only two tricks to this now. First of all, the box is so tight that (see pic 2) there isn't room enough for the IO panel. No problem, I will probably just have to trim the panel on that side.

Second problem which may be visible on pic 3, is that without support from below the motherboard bows in the middle. Possible solutions: let it and finish enlarging the whole so it slants towards the middle. But that will look ugly. Second solution: push some plastic shims in between the box and the plastic CPU support under the motherboard. I'll get to that someday.

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So with most of the holes cut let's return to the issue of airflow. I slipped the mobo and the PSU in with the box on it's side and took a picture.

Looks tight on the right, doesn't it? 45mm clearance between the CPU fan's clip and the PSU.

Also keep in mind that there will most likely be a low profile video card in that orange PCIe slot, as well as a wifi card in the left-most PCI slot.

So if the airflow is going from left to right, I don't think I will be able to fit an exhaust fan on the right unless I can fit a 40mm x 7mm fan in there. I might also be able to turn the CPU fan around 180 degrees to get it out of the way.

Thoughts?

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Quote: Originally Posted by Merkwurdigliebe So if the airflow is going from left to right, I don't think I will be able to fit an exhaust fan on the right unless I can fit a 40mm x 7mm fan in there. I might also be able to turn the CPU fan around 180 degrees to get it out of the way. Thoughts?

Lots of thoughts ...

1. Is there room behind the CPU, but under the PSU, on that right-side wall?
2. You could always do the cooling option of blowing air out the back. You could augment this by creating an airflow guide, given a large enough intake fan. I'll try to draw up a concept ...
3. Have you thought about a small water-cooling option instead?

-godling

Quote: Originally Posted by godling Lots of thoughts ... 1. Is there room behind the CPU, but under the PSU, on that right-side wall? 2. You could always do the cooling option of blowing air out the back. You could augment this by creating an airflow guide, given a large enough intake fan. I'll try to draw up a concept ... 3. Have you thought about a small water-cooling option instead? -godling

1: 60mm behind the CPU until you hit back of the box. The parallel and PS2 ports are the tallest things back there.
2: I welcome all ideas. Take your time. I'm in no hurry.
3: Linkage to these "lilliputian" water cooling systems? If it looks good I will use it to cool the vid card as well thus removing the need for the huge heat sink. The 250W power supply should be able to power all this and the coolant pump.

Quote: Originally Posted by Merkwurdigliebe 1: 60mm behind the CPU until you hit back of the box. The parallel and PS2 ports are the tallest things back there. 2: I welcome all ideas. Take your time. I'm in no hurry. 3: Linkage to these "lilliputian" water cooling systems? If it looks good I will use it to cool the vid card as well thus removing the need for the huge heat sink.

1. That 60 mm might be your opportunity for a fan, but that's a tight space.
3. (yes, out of order ) I'm not a water guy, so I have no linkage. Just wondering if there were such a thing that you could use. There's a worklog called Impossible Modding (http://forums.pcapex.com/project_wor...e_modding.html) by RigoR, and he uses a small water setup.

Finally, 2: the idea was to use some thin, curved matrial (plastic, probably ... possibly old venetian blinds? ) to direct the airflow as it enters the case. I've attached a couple of quick images that I hope describe what I'm talking about. As the air enters through the intake fan, these guides would curve the flow toward the back, where you could have the exhaust. This would give it a more direct feed to the exhaust, as well as provide accurate cooling over components. I envision 2 of them to separate the air flow somewhat.

Where you put the exhaust fan in back is another matter ... not sure what kind of room you have, but seems like you've got a bunch near the top back.

-godling

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