I just posted a new blog entry: Project: Ghost of the Red Baron

Quote: Over my holiday break I decided to catch up on my own projects that were shelved while I concentrated customer projects. One of these personal projects was "the Ghost of the Red Baron" I've always loved the box artwork on Dynamix's Red Baron flight simulator game. (published in 1990) ...

You can find the full post here.

Worklog Update: 1/27/08,
page 3

The mural details in the left panel are finished!, clearcoated, wetsanded and buffed to glossy finish! I love the pure evil of this image!! Mwhahaa!!!

The case I've used is my all time favorite, the AMS CF-1009 gtower. You've probally seen this case used in my past projects.

Unfortunately AMS no longer makes this case. CoolTechnica is the only e-retailor I've found that has them in stock, here

Why I liked this case.

1. You can remove the 2 piece acrylic bezel and plate for cutting fan holes.
2. LED and PWR/RESET buttons are screwed in versus glued
3. The 7 HD cage is removable. (+ 3, 3.5 bays = 11 HDs mounts)
4. It can be modified to accomondate modify Front and Rear 120 fans. (2x 120s in front)
5. It's painted aluminum, not anodized so less prep work painting

I'd still choose this case over any Lian Li or Coolermaster for modding. The simplistic plain jane design makes it a great blank canvas, plus it's sturdy!

Tom's Hardware review of midtower version, CF1006, here
It's really a shame AMS stopped making the CF1009. From what I heard, AMS felt the Small Form Factor market was much more viable for them.

AMS CF1009 gtower



The clear acrylic bezel and alum backing plate are fastened on with 6 large flathead screws.



The rear of the CF1009 has 2x 80mm exhaust fans above PSU and 1x 120mm exhaust fan
One of the biggest complaints about the CF1009 was the lack of a removable Motherboard tray. A removable MB trays are nice, but I've been building PCs before the case aftermarket exploded, so I've grown accustomed to cases without them.



The CF1009 arrvies with 2 puny 80mm intake fans. There is a lot of wasted real estate in the front of this chassis. As soon as you remove the front aluminum backing plate, you can visualize 2x 120mm intake fans. My first task was to make a new mounting plate for 2x 120mm intake fans. I grab my trusty Jigsaw with 18 TPI cutting blade and remove the front mounting wall in the chassis.



You can breath in plent of air now.. lol! ...Ok, I better make you a new mounting plate ..heh



The new front mounting plate will be cut from 20 gauge sheet metal.
Here, I'm using a measuring Square.



To attach the new front plate, I used 1/8" pop rivet fasteners.



I'm measuring out the location for two 120mm intake fans. These 120mm wire fan guards will make great templates for tracing my fan hole & screw locations.



To make my 120mm fan holes, I use my Greenlee Knock out Punch.
This is the most efficiant means for cutting a clean, flawless hole.

More information about Greenlee knock Punch
Greenlee part # 730EBB-120 Last time I inquired, they were around $450 in the states + Large 3/4" socket wrench, and 2" socket. I wouldn't use anything less than 19" long socket wrench. Estimated purchase price of $550 new.



I first make pilot hole with a 1.5" hole saw attachment that allows me to fit the shaft of the Greenlee Knockout Punch


The shaft of the Greenlee Punch goes through 1.5" pilot hole. The threaded circular (stationary) cutting blade is pulled inward as you tighten the socket wrench.



The new 2x 120mm fan holes are made. The fan mounting holes were cut in a similar fashion with with a Roper Whitney Hand punch.

I've always liked handles on a case.

The top will have a recessed handle. At the time I performed this mod, I found some professional cabinet speaker handles at a local surplus store (they're gone now)

This is the closest handle I could find available today, Amazon



I first traced a template of the two handle openings, then traced those openings onto the top case panel. I cut out the openings and used DP-190 ScotchWeld to fasten the recessed handle to the bottom of the top panel. In this photo, I'm using PPG Red Spot Putty to fill in the gap between the handle and top panel.



The top panel and handle after sanding the factory paint with 400 grit sandpaper



Wetsanding 4 coats of SEM brand "self etching primer" (Brown)


Painting guide on giving this case a Black Gloss Enamel finish with aerosol cans

I'm getting a "page not found" on the blog links.

Thank you MLiV! Should be fixed now.

looks great! Always a fan of your work. Does that red putty work like bondo? I've been looking for something to replace using bondo.

Quote: Originally Posted by MLiV Does that red putty work like bondo? I've been looking for something to replace using bondo.

It's only good for light duty work, like deep scratches.

The best alternative to Bondo is Evercoat brand "Everglass" "short strand" fiberglass filler. It has Kevlar in it, which gives it flexibilty after it's hardened. It also won't shrink as it cures like Bondo, which creates cracks

Top notch work as always, Bill! You are truly inspiring

Glad to hear your takin' time to work on "YOUR" projects Bill .

I like your cut out and replace idea for the front of the case , it gives you a clean slate to put things where you want them


**Any chance we get to see Snoopy in his Sopwith Camel **

Attached Thumbnails

 

Quote: Originally Posted by HigHTecHReDNecK **Any chance we get to see Snoopy in his Sopwith Camel **

hmmm.. (ponders location for it) ... I actually had that same picture of snoppy painted on the engine hood (rear!) of my old 1966 Red Beetle. I wish I'd taken a picture of it back then (duh!) http://www.mnpctech.3dpixelnet.com/p...y/1BC68Bug.jpg

A custom airbrushed mural will be done over the entire case by Lin Anderson. The theme I have in mind.. Very dark and evil.. The Baron's ghost will be a skeleton, and hes pissed! "All this controversy of who killed me won't allow me to rest in peace!!!"

The keyboard wrist pad and Mouse will be painted by Mnpctech's new painter, Brad Galvin... Brad will also be clearcoating Lin's airbrushed mural. (More about Brad in an upcoming blog)

Heres the equip slated for the project

Saitek Eclipse II (I love these keyboards!)


Logitech MX518 gaming Mouse

The chassis is a beaut! It was powdercoated "Red Baron" Red (perfect!) by JIT Powdercoating in Farmington, Minnesota

Bill, where the hell do you get the energy? You always have so many irons in the fire at the same, makes me feel guilty about postponing the taking out the garbage ceremony.

Your work is amazing as always. I'm glad you've been getting some more exposure lately. mnpctech has become a household name for those who know modding.

Quote: Originally Posted by BigAkita Bill, where the hell do you get the energy? You always have so many irons in the fire at the same, makes me feel guilty about postponing the taking out the garbage ceremony. Your work is amazing as always. I'm glad you've been getting some more exposure lately. mnpctech has become a household name for those who know modding.

Thanks Bro. The energy derives from having to support my family, pay my mortage and shop lease. My income relies on getting my name out there and producing stuff for mass consumption. As for this one, I haven't decided if I'll wanna sell it yet. I'm really amped about the theme.

Sometime we still need to get you, Lokie, Twisted, Glitterkill up here for a group project over a weekend

Last year didn't work for me but I agree, we need to do it in 08. Das Frau's can go shopping, you and Lokie can do some cutting, Twizted will perform his electric magic, Gary can use his mad graphic skills, and I'll drink a beer and "supervise".

Hehehe... Fokker.... hehehe

I like the idea for a very infuriated Undead Red Baron.

@ BA, Hey, thats my job!!!

@ JollyJoker, I'm betting he'll have improved fire power too


The wrist pad of the KB would make a good canvas for an airbrushed scene. I'm imagining a view of the Fokker Dr1's machine gun as it blasts rounds in the night. I'll brainstorm with Brad before he airbrushs it, but in the meantime I want to remove the "Saitek" recessed logo and give the pad a black background color finish.





To fill the logo, I'm using Evercoat brand Everglass Fibder glass filler (short hair)
Pictured here with Blue Cream Hardener and Body Filler spreader


Just a dab of Blue Cream Hardener is neccessary. The Everglass filler sets real fast!!


First, I fill in the letters using Body Filler spreader


I counted 4 thin layers of filler


I let it cure for 20 mins before using a Mouse Sander with Medium grit sandpaper




The entire wrist pad has been sanded with medium grit sandpaper and ready for Primer coat

Is that a USAF logo on the blueprint? No it couldnt be!

Man this forum wont let me post the logo for Fokker for you, guess I need a few more drivel posts before I can post the logo or the link to it

Quote: Originally Posted by rhblakeman Man this forum wont let me post the logo for Fokker for you, guess I need a few more drivel posts before I can post the logo or the link to it

Let's see if I can fake the forum out and get you the link to the Fokker logo of the era

brandsoftheworld-dot-com/brands/0002/9200/brand.gif


of course replace -dot- with a simple period and the http header in front of all of it. Not only for the blueprint mockup but in case you want to incorporate that into the airbrushing.

I have the GIF of it too - yell if you want it and I can send it by email.

Thats cool. Thanks Russ! Brad emailed me this sketch today, it's a design for the Saitek II keyboard wrist pad. A view from behind the Red baron's machine guns as he makes a kill.



Maltese cross designs positioned for sides of wrist pad