BigAkita has a new review up on a pretty damn sharp water cooling case from newcomer, Titan Computer ( http://www.titan-cd.com ). The Robela water case isn't a performance monster but it sure does have some nice features and should make for a nice and silent rig... IF you can handle the price tag.


Check it out here.

Nice review Brett. That case reminds me of the XG Quantum in so many ways, it has to come out of the same manufacturing plant. It also weighs a ton. And the water blocks and lines look very, very (did I say very?) similar to those in another water review coming up soon. I got the same kind of impressive idle temps in my testing.

Gotta luv the advertising gimmick. Robela sounds so much better than Shirley or Jane.

You know...if you change the pump and somehow change the 1/4 inch tubing to 3/8 or better keep the rad and get DD blocks....that could be modded into a nice watersystem...God i wish i had the money to get that case....Nice review and Nice case.

Quote: Originally Posted by AntiM Nice review Brett. That case reminds me of the XG Quantum in so many ways, it has to come out of the same manufacturing plant. It also weighs a ton. And the water blocks and lines look very, very (did I say very?) similar to those in another water review coming up soon. I got the same kind of impressive idle temps in my testing. Gotta luv the advertising gimmick. Robela sounds so much better than Shirley or Jane.

The manufacturing plant is in China, so I imagine there are several different companies they supply. I believe we will probably see more than 2 similar cases by different companies.

Those cases by themselves without all the cooling gear are real nice. I hve the precursor to that one as a freebee from a coworker.

even taking a pic of a lapped cooler you avoid the camera lens. Good review BA.

Actually no he didnt...http://reviews.pcapex.com/cases/imag...=twc-lside.jpg

Here we see the ever so illusive BA avoiding capture, He exsistentance remains questionable (like big foot or nessy)

I seen the case the other when I clicked on the link above by accident. It brought me to a page where it had that anime character their, but said they were desktop backrounds.

Good Review none the less, but 300 bucks for a first time water cooling system....is a bit too much.

It's the same case, minus the fans, & plus the rad.

That's some bitchin' radiator, but 1/4ID? That cuts the power of the system off at the ankles. Same with the pump. (They should have used a Swifty MCP350. And for an Ultra (1/2ID) version they should have something like this mod factory made and have it come with a Swiftech Storm)

There are many copycat waterblocks out there, so an adaption of an Swiftech, Asetek or DD block wouldn't be too cost prohibitive. (MCW55 for the GPU, DD TDX for the CPU [for 3/8ID version] While the Ultra comes with a Swifty Storm and two MCW55 for twin GPUs, and is equipped with a few of these [or the smaller version] between the chips.) It would be best to leave the NB air cooled (MCX-159CU) because it wouldn't be a good idea to cut the head pressure down that drastically.

Major goof, the 80mm fans. Who in the hell would have an enthusiast full-tower case that uses 80mm fans for an intake and blowhole? Stick with 120s, please.

I'm sorry Titan, I'm not paying 300 plus greenbacks for a water cooling system that compares to a $100 system (Evercool WC-202). No matter how pretty.

As usual, you put out a quality Review Big Dog. You know Christmas is just around the corner

those are the same handles that are on my T.V stand.

cool lookin case, prolly keep a K6 system pretty dang cold.

but thorough and quality review Akita.

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So? Where can this case be bought?
The Manuf. website is crap and I cant find a link...
And... If its not at newegg yet... Any ideas?

Inland is the current sole distributor. This is the same case with a slightly different face.

http://www.inland-products.com/singl...&partnum=03011

Well I have just finished with this case, where I attend school we had a few extra budget money so we threw it out for this cheap water cooled system with a EPOX NF3 250gb board and a Athlon 64 3500+.

Well it looked to be a good choice, but it wasn't, the ablity of this is very limited the CPU we chose has quite the OC ability and is so limited, after updating th BIOS to try and get a memory ratio control the EPOx board let go, and when i finally got the ratio fixed the chip was running at 53 degrees celcious after only 227 FSB for water cooling my air cooled system works well better.

Front alarm is loud which is a plus, but not when it goes off every ten minutes when the system temp pushes 45 after raising the alarm setting it auto offs the system after it stays over 45 for 3 minutes
The EPOX board is limiting me the most but the safe mode feature is nice the system loads no matter what.

All in All the case has some of the worst water cooling I've seen and the class was extremely dissapointed still have it running at 2700 but could go so much farther with some bigger tubing and a faster pump

I have been using this case for about a month for an Intal Pentium 4 2.5GHz system.

Problem: there is a huge difference between the CPU temperature that the case thermal sensor reports and that of the Motherboard (either in Bios or through the utility software that has come with the board): The case thermal sensor reports temperatures in the range of 20-28C while, the motherbaord reports the temperature of the CPU core a fixed 39C?!

At this point i ask myself perhaps i should have removed the orange/yellow-like cab (made of plastic?), covering the metal beneath in the head of the thermal sensor that is attached to the bottom of the CPU block. I wonder if this is the source of such big difference in temperature records. Should i remove this cab? The manual however clearly shows in a picture that this cover remains there, right?

Another confusing point: the temperature reported by the motherboard itself is always fixed as 39C; no fluctuations at al!? Is this posible? This is while on the case's LCD panel the temperature varies depending the room's temperature. The very low temperature range on the LCD panel is dubious too!

What might be the source of the problem?

Thanks, R amin

Don't remove the plastic sheilding from the thermistor this has nothing to do wit the temperature discretion. It's simply result of the accuracy betwen the CPU's internal thermal diode and the themistor which as the instrucions specify must be placed on the Inlay side of the CPU-waterblock base. The tehrmistor (in PC terms) is miles away from the source of the heat.

While that are various ways of determining temp, the most accurate the average end-user in fact even the dedicated Enthusiast have at their isposal is the reading from the internal thermal diode.

First of all it's located inisde the CPU and you really canm't get any closer to the source.

Second: while people criticize the accuracy of these devices, they've changed tremendously in their quality. Now that CPUs have features such as thermal throttling, speed-step technology and Kool and Quiet the accuracy of these devices is much better.

Finally the internal thermal diode is the single evice which stands between a CP frying itself and throttling down or shuttin down. No other system will be capable of shutting down the CPU in time. The data supplied by CPU internal thermal diodes was used in motherboard Anti Burn Sheild II software by Soltek over four years ago. Ealry on AMD XP2400's were giving innacurrate readins as high as 86C and 100C which forced the motherboard to shut down.

Anyway what's mots important isd getting that thermistor in the hottest place possible, since the Robela is a very quiet system you want to get maximum performance from it. I wyuld take that thermistor and place it where it will be fed a cionstant high temp. Maybe tapeot to a mosfett by the CPU, or try opening the waterblock when you remove the "cover" all that under there is a soldered s copper "box" the waterbock is sealed. In fact if the mounting (that little square which the brace fits over) weren't on the external polished surface you could run the block without it and probably get lower temps. What you can do however is taoe tape the thermitor to the botton wherer the seal is soldered the replace the cover, There's asmall opening on each corner and you can feed the thermistor wire through it.