We have a new review up of FluidXP's latest and greatest coolant formula named FluidXP Ultra. I compared the Ultra coolant against a homebrew mix, PC Ice, Koolance's coolant offering and all three formula's of FluidXP during the Labor Day weekend. I have been a die-hard homebrew coolant fan for years but FluidXP Ultra has completely converted me. USE THIS COOLANT NOW.

Check it out here.

How do you like the new graph templates I am working on?

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Hmmm, I expected a little more feedback. What do you guys think? Is there a test you would like to see added?

Hmmm interesting. If i go water cooling I'll go with fluidXP Ultra then.

Nice graph too, puts it all in geek prospective.

Pretty standard fluid review. I like the new charts but it shows that non-conductive protection isn't always the best performer, but its added security.

Personally a homebrew is going to fall under good performance, little non conductivity, and lowest price.

Thanks for the review GK, must have took forever cleaning the loop in between fluid changes that much.

It would be nice to see multi block performance, but damn that test would take weeks.

Yeah it was one of the most tedious reviews I have ever done. A multiblock loop would have just been more of the same. I was honestly surprised how close the performance was to a homebrew mix. Looks like my half gallon of ready-mixed homebrew coolant will be collecting dust for a while.

It would be cool also if you are still using the ultra, to keep updating this every 3 or 4 months with the status of the coolant.

I can definitely do that. Ultra is running in both loops in the PR Tribute PC.

The new graph system is sweet, I will be buggin you on that with these - degree temps I have to log.

I just want to let everyone know that this was the first review I read on this site and if it was for Voodoo Extreme I wouldn't have found it and I am glad that I had.

I just have to add to this review a little because I have been using the Fluid XP Extreme since about February now and I had a horrible experience with it. It wasn't because of coolant itself but rather what happened when I used it in my Koolance PC4-1036BK. I can't put in a link due to the 7 post min sorry this is going to be incomplete. What attracted me to this case is the fact everything is integrated so I wouldn't have to worry about cumbersome radiator to carry along with it, the case uses the reservoir and pump RP-1000BK from Koolance, it’s all contained in that unit and saves allot of space. Well I found the Fluid XP Extreme and saw that it was non-conductive, unlike the Koolance coolant which is conductive I decided because I was making such a huge investment I didn't want to lose it all over one leak I would get the Fluid XP, there was a note on the case saying that they would only support coolant used from Koolance but I didn't think any of it thinking coolant was coolant right? Well I was wrong.

I had it running for about 5 or 6 weeks and then it was leaking from the RP-1000BK and it had no warranty void sticker on it (which I later found it should of had one) so I opened it and found out the tank is has two parts to it. The tank itself and then a lid on top secured with a glue well after about 2 weeks of no one knowing how to seal this tank right here in town I decided to call my dad who is a plastics molding engineer and hoping he would know what happened and what I could do to fix it. I got 2 pieces of bad news 1: the glue they used was probably one they typically use in the plastic industry and it will break down when it comes in contact with calcium and Fluid XP is UV reactive and I found deposits at the bottom of the tank so that’s what broke my seal. 2: I could use silicone to seal the tank but if any part of the tank has any of that adhesive on it, it would leak again.

At this point I decided to call Koolance and see if they could take this one back and I just get a new one cause that would be allot of work, problem is I opened the unit and the warranty was now void DOH!! Though they did confirm for me what my dad told me about the adhesive and at this point I knew I was screwed and I had to do it myself. I ran into a major problem when I removed the lid the tank itself had a slit in it providing only 2 small pieces of plastic for it to come to rest on. It looked something like this |_| around the entire tank. I had gone to clean all of that adhesive and on the 2 small pieces of plastic on the sides there but the plastic was breaking away to easy so I did the only thing that I knew would seal it up for good. I cleaned it the best I could making sure if there was break it was on the outside of the tank and then I got my soldering gun out and got some clear extra plastic from an old case I had and melted the two pieces of plastic together with an extra layer on top it. This was extreme I know but with the reservoir all ready breaking apart I had no other choice but it was the best one because I haven't had a leak since.

The moral of the story is that if you are going to use the Koolance RP-1000BK or any other Koolance reservoir make be certain you use the coolant from Koolance because Fluid XP will break down that reservoirs adhesive and you will either have to replace it. This gives any one 3 options 1: You have someone in town fabricate you one and it will probably have to be a metal. 2: Seal it the way I did, but if you do please do it in a well ventilated area as I did because those fumes will get nasty. 3: Just use another tank from another party that can confirm that Fluid XP will work with it, if you go this route you have to open the casing and change one of the hoses to go directly out but if you are willing to go this route you should all ready know that. I do love my case and will recommend it to anyone but please learn from my misfortune and helps you objectively buy your equipment so this doesn’t happen to you.

I just redid my loop today and bought FluidXP Ultra based on the review. I will let you know how it works for me.

BTW ... sup GK and the rest of you old school hoes, long time no see!

Yes definitely long time no see Bro.....where you been, how you doing, WTF can't even say hi every now and then.

Quote: Originally Posted by Lokie Yes definitely long time no see Bro.....where you been, how you doing, WTF can't even say hi every now and then.

Sup Lokie! Nice too see someone here remembers me! I'm still here... just life is in the way. I drop a bomb once-in-a-while... you must have missed me!

PimpRig FOREVER!

Quote: Originally Posted by FUBAR Sup Lokie! Nice too see someone here remembers me! I'm still here... just life is in the way. I drop a bomb once-in-a-while... you must have missed me! PimpRig FOREVER!

I hear you about life man... it hits us all! PR forever indeed..check out this thread PR Tribute.

Nice review GK , lovin the new graph . After reading the post made by Kayden, was wondering if maybe you/someone could test this out by putting the fluid in a container sealed with said glue, (not hooked to a PC ) and see if it eats the glue ? maybe take a pic at start and every few weeks............. just a thought

Good review, but in my own experience a regular meter will never really tell you anything about continuity unless your reading wires and looking for shorts. Your average multimeter uses about 6v (varies by brand but not much) to test for continuity, basically theres 6vdc sitting at the end of your probe and just like all voltage its looking for the shortest path to ground....your other probe. So basically by testing with this method you are saying that this fluid is good up to 6vdc. Thats still pretty good, but if you want better and of course wanna do something that no other site has done......due to money mainly, than you need a micro ohmeter. The good ones test up to 15000 vdc. That would be my suggestion for the next review that follows this suit is to use a piece of gear that can really push this stuff to the limit.

6vdc covers alot of the different voltages that youll see in your pc but not all. Theres still a couple out there that use 115vac pumps and so on. Also it would be cool to be able to report on how much exact voltage a certain liquid can take before it becomes conductive.

Sure, HTRN, I would be up for that. Still got a bottle sitting here waiting to be abused.

WOW! Long time no see, FUBAR!

Sparky, VERY good suggestion. I will look into those better meters like you suggested. Got any links?

Quote: Originally Posted by GlitterKill Sparky, VERY good suggestion. I will look into those better meters like you suggested. Got any links?

Link


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Anon hit the nail on the head. Heres a link where you can pick up the 1503 model, which should do the trick nicely, for 319.00. Link If your really itching to find out when a certain fluid actually will draw an arc ive got a dialectric tester that can test up to 50kv. Plain old mineral oil thats fairly new and clean wont arc until about 45kv depending on the circumstances.

Even having that 1503 micro ohmmeter will really show the true nature of any liquid though. Another idea might be to see if you can get your hands on a viscosity meter.....These, at least the good ones like anton paar are really really expensive. Easily over a grand for something that wont be used all that often. But it would still be beneficial to actually see what each liquids rating is at. Stokes Law....I believe is what defines this measurment method, and unfortunately is damn near impossible to duplicate unless youve got one hell of a lab handy. If you do end up wanting to do this let me know, fortunately my job gives me all sorts of cool toys like that, and i could get some readings for ya.

They must have all this information already in the form of an MSDS from the company that actually produces this stuff. They must have quantified properties from lab tests ... just a question if they want to share.