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| | #1 (permalink) | |
| The acrylic pimp himself, ZENNZZO, has a nice n' quick guide up for working with acrylic. I have wanted to know this info myself. Be sure to give it a read! Check it out here. | ||
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| | #6 (permalink) | |
| Direct Cool Hoe | Cut all your pieces first, and test fit. make sure to mark them for in-side and out-side. Then glue and clamp as nesassary If you make your own glue, you can thicken it, to be high-build. Build-up any areas you need to, then, sand, buff and polish them back. After a little practice, you will see that it is really simple and easy to do....Enjoy Bros. ![]() | |
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| | #11 (permalink) | |
| Direct Cool Hoe | ...who meeeeee? ![]() WOOOOOOO HOOOOOO hear that? It's on it way WOOOO This one was a good warm-up for the aux case, to go with that package from the mnpctech labs... I'm gonna be havin' some fab'n fun here real soon!! ![]() Last edited by ZENNZZO; 04-November-03 at 07:04 AM.. | |
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| | #14 (permalink) | |
| Apex Techie Lite | Great write up!!! Question: How do you prevent the glueing effect when cutting the plexi, or does the table saw just work good enough that you don't have to worry about it? details, you know how the plexi gets hot and melts to the opposing piece you are trying to cut and the you have to go back and cut it again so that your cut is smooth..... I ended up using ice cubes to cool the dremel bit..... he he he ![]() | |
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| | #15 (permalink) | |
| Direct Cool Hoe | H33GA, I have been using a wide kerf carbide tipped saw blade and it works to cut cleanly. Also started using a carbide tipped router bit...If you cut instead of grind the plexi, it won't weld itself back together...it's very hard to get clean cementable edges by grinding... sorry to take so long to answer your question... ![]() | |
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