ok, i painted some plastic, i put about 4 coats primer, 2 coats of flat grey spray paint, and then 3 somewhat heavy coats of Rustoleum textured spray paint....... problem is, its soft (the paint is) and leaves finger print indentions when i touch it...... its been drying for approximately 24 hours now and is still soft..... will it eventually get harder or will i have to put something like a flat polyuerethane on it?

Phin,
btw I love your title. Well, you messed up somewhere.....we all do. I am going to assume that you waited for the primer to dry and sanded it flat. When you applied the flat grey paint, did you give it ample dry time? Did you let the Rustoleum flash long enough between coats? Is the paints you are spraying compatable? Is where you are drying your part at least 62 degrees? (the activators stop completely at 58 degrees) I realize that Rustoleum is no urethane. Haven't sprayed much Rustomleum in the past, but when I did, seems like I remember a long dry time...... just not that long.
Some of the answers I am looking for is if one of your undercoats was not completely dry before you applied the topcoat, or maybe the Rustomeum just takes that long before it dries.
Hopefully one of our other members has more experience with your paint of choice.
Unfortunatly, if the paint does not dry, topcoating your non dry foundation, will only cause more problems. You will just have more paint to scrape off. I am hoping Rustoleum takes that long to dry.

Insom

like iso said the flash time is critical, if thats the case and you have to scrape it off for a du-over i recomend puting the rusto- under a little heat (nothing over 80 degrees) for about 8-10 minutes between coats.
and is your primer airosal or do you mix it.
if you mix it and all your products are compatible then you might not be putting enough thinner or activator in it, combine that with not letting it flash long enough or not sanding between coats , then in some cases the base/primer will actualy suck the top activator or thinner down to the base causing the top coat not to dry at all (this has happend to me on a all-nighter on a banchee front fairing.).

Quote: Originally Posted by beachbum86 like iso said the flash time is critical, if thats the case and you have to scrape it off for a du-over i recomend puting the rusto- under a little heat (nothing over 80 degrees) for about 8-10 minutes between coats. and is your primer airosal or do you mix it. if you mix it and all your products are compatible then you might not be putting enough thinner or activator in it, combine that with not letting it flash long enough or not sanding between coats , then in some cases the base/primer will actualy suck the top activator or thinner down to the base causing the top coat not to dry at all (this has happend to me on a all-nighter on a banchee front fairing.).

its all aerosal, so i guess im going to be scraping the paint off and just using the rustoleum and maybe just one coat of primer.... hopefully that will work, ill get back with you when thats done

One question guys...what do you mean by 'letting it flash'?

Quote: Originally Posted by pimp joose One question guys...what do you mean by 'letting it flash'?

It's the point where the majority of the solvents have turned to vapor. When you lay paint it truly looks wet, a few minutes afterwards it generally just a hint less with a gloss (matte/satin far more obvious). This is when you can lay a 2nd color coat down if you don't want wet sand every layer. Basicly, if you don't let each layer flash, you aren't adding "another layer", you're making the first layer thicker. That in turn will cause orange peeling easily or in Phines case, layers not completely drying.

Quote: Originally Posted by Iateronmly It's the point where the majority of the solvents have turned to vapor. When you lay paint it truly looks wet, a few minutes afterwards it generally just a hint less with a gloss (matte/satin far more obvious). This is when you can lay a 2nd color coat down if you don't want wet sand every layer. Basicly, if you don't let each layer flash, you aren't adding "another layer", you're making the first layer thicker. That in turn will cause orange peeling easily or in Phines case, layers not completely drying.

good summery, just one more point.
when clear coating to determine if ists time for another coat, just touch your finger to the tape you used to mask (flames for example)then when you pick up your finger and it stops leaving little streamers and its just a sticky fingerprint, then its time for another coat.

whats the best clear coat for plastic painted with hammered rustoleum?

Quote: Originally Posted by phin3s whats the best clear coat for plastic painted with hammered rustoleum?

im not sure about the rusto stuff

but for small plastics i generaly us ppg speed clear (DCU2010), reducer (DCX2011), and hardener (DT870). you should be able to do all your clear coating and finishing in one night with this stuff.
and its pretty flexable for a speed clear, need a little warmth for this stuff.
but check w/ your local paint shop to see how compatible it is with rusto.

i used rustoleum hammered paint and i put some rustoleum crystal clear enamel on it, and its wrinkled now...... what did i do wrong?

i love the way its looking, but will it dry?!?

Rustoleum, although it is about the best spray bomb there is, takes a very long time to cure. You probably used a faster drying clear on top of the Rustoleom which caused it to wrinkle.

Quote: Originally Posted by Lunamods Rustoleum, although it is about the best spray bomb there is, takes a very long time to cure. You probably used a faster drying clear on top of the Rustoleom which caused it to wrinkle.

it loooks awesome, will it dry you think? and also be very strong? i waited 2 days before i sprayed the clear on but i love the way its looking..... now, will it be harder in a day or so?

EDIT: send me your aim name or msn or something in a pm so i can talk to you about it (will be a lot easier and quicker)

insomniac
do you snowboard,if you do, you ever go to mount bachelor