Right now I'm tottaly repainting my case (flourescent green/white), and I was wondering whats a good way to make stencils for spray paint letters onto my case and window. I tried cutting designs into cardboard with a razor blade but that didn't come out to well. Do any pimps have any suggestions?

Good idea thanks im gonna have to try that.

DONT use cardboard! Ive tryed it and failed but if you use some thick drawing paper it works a treat

Here is a great guide for Stencils.
http://www.stencilrevolution.com/tutorials/

Or try using the software 'Me on a Pumpkin' i use it for my Stencils PM me and i will send you it

Quote: Originally Posted by r00t Or try using the software 'Me on a Pumpkin' i use it for my Stencils PM me and i will send you it

If you don't mind, I sure could use a copy for my Infantry trib rig project... Might make my design a bit simpler (ie: I could do it myself instead of having someone make me an applique)

I would use a stencil to pencil on the design then mask it off; i've gotten nice clean lines this way.

I tried the thick drawing paper option that r00t mentioned, was easier to cut the stencil out, gave some nice lines.but the depth of the paper still gives problems with deeper paint at the walls.

Would be worth trying Thomas's idea

a local company in nj i know of will make you just about anything you want check out his site www.defcondesigns.com

Quote: Originally Posted by Berserker I tried the thick drawing paper option that r00t mentioned, was easier to cut the stencil out, gave some nice lines.but the depth of the paper still gives problems with deeper paint at the walls. Would be worth trying Thomas's idea

Yeah, he's got a pretty good idea going. I may have to try that soon. I used to use the manilla folders. They work pretty well, but now I use inkjet transparencies. You can print your layer design from photoshop and cut. They leave nice clean lines for me. You could also try acetate, it's a very thin plastic similar to to the transparencies, but you can't print on it with an inkjet.

Try some Liquid Masking Film 4oz 32oz

Cover area with brush, roller, or spray gun. Cure overnight. Cut out and peel off areas to be painted. Or use a negative stencil to apply masking film, remove stencil, cure overnight, paint, peel.

Quote: Originally Posted by Seyeklopz Try some Liquid Masking Film 4oz 32oz Cover area with brush, roller, or spray gun. Cure overnight. Cut out and peel off areas to be painted. Or use a negative stencil to apply masking film, remove stencil, cure overnight, paint, peel.

Hey, now there's something to put in my kit bag. That stuff looks pretty hand, as long as you're careful when you're scoring.

Thus far, if I want precise lines like the ones I put on my top window, I make a hi-res b/w template in Paintshop, then I take it a local vinyl graphic guy and have him make me a reverse cutout. Stick on, paint over, peel off. This makes for smooth lines and even paint depth with no risk of overspraying under the edges of the stencil.

hmmm... "overspraying under"... you know what I mean

Yea, I think it would be great stuff. Probably dries thin and will not let anything get under it. You could apply it with an inversed stencil, so you wouldn't have to score it

When I need a stencil...

I take my screens (I prefer 305 mesh count), cover them with photo emulsion, let them dry, then take them over to my exposure table. Put positive tranparencies under them, expose them, then blast them with a pressure washer to clear out the masks. Easy.

Oh yeah, having a precision press and good registrations helps later on too if you're doing more than 1 color. For this kind of work, I like NazDar inks (at least, after the fumes are gone).

Now... for traditional spray paint stencils, I would suggest thin sheet metal, like copper or brass. Though for a 1 or 2 use stencil, simple transparency materials should be fine if you are willing to lose a few sheets before you get it perfect. (The stuff is about $1.50 a sheet in small quantities.) If you have a printer, get some transparencies for it and print your design in black... then just cut out all the black. Easy. Do your cutting against a white surface for contrast, butcher paper over a cutting board should be fine.

If you need a design larger than letter size, put some registration marks toward where sheets would overlap in your design (crosshairs, the Wingdings ones are fine enough for this) and print the design on multiple sheets. (In Photoshop, you can do this by choosing which section it prints in print options.) Then match up the registrations and carefully tape the sheets together... in places that WON'T be cut. Or you could get a larger format printer and avoid that hassle... I have a Canon i9900 and it is AMAZING for being a $450 printer. 13" x 19" with 8 ink colors and great dpi... I'm making poster left and right with it. (Until I get an even bigger printer...)

I went to my hometown vinyle sign maker. You see these types of signs magnetacily placed on truck and car doors , Well the lettering is made of vinyle and has a lite adhesive. , any pattern can be put into the sign program , and made to almost any size,, emblem , lettering etc. can be easily applied to any place on your case , for me its the perfect stencil . Cost isnt to high compared to the time that can be spent, making your own. >>Mike >> yep just read HPO7 post, hes done the same thing, sorry to repeat >>Mike

If the stencil you want to make isn't too big you could try 8 1/2 by 11 Avery lables.

Hey r00t, I could use that template program...thanx

Quote: Originally Posted by Silentkill88 Hey r00t, I could use that template program...thanx

He hasn't posted since 16th of January. Don't think he'll be responding very fast.