I've decided to paint a spare case with Metalcast. I've had previous success with regular auto paint and metallics on other cases. I figured I could do it with Metalcast as well. I decided this before reading all the grusome details of how hard it is to work with. Go figure, eh?

My questions are rather simple and someone must know the answer. Is Metalcast enamel or laquer? I ask because I want to clear coat it after I've completed the color process. I want the "right" kind of clear coat so I don't have to repeat the whole process. Waiting 5 days between painting is annoying.

Also, I've seem to run into either recoat lift or solvent pop. I can't tell exactly and unfortunately I do not have a camera so I can post a picture. If what I am seeing is either of these symptoms, does this mean sanding back down and redoing everything or will a quick wetsand fix this?

My process so far has been as follows.
1. Wet sand original powder coat to smooth, but not bare metal. Then wiped down with denatured alcohol.
2. Metalcast Groundcoat (one side of case developed what looks like recoat lift or solvent pop)
3. Wait 5 days.
4. Hit Groundcoat with Meguiars #1 to get rid of overspray dust
5. Hit with a coat of Metalcast Red

This is where I am stuck. There are a few drips on the panel like mnpctech_guy had on his. The drips are some of the spots where I have blemishes. I don't want to continue with the color on the remaining sides if it is consensus that I should start over. At this point, it would be cheaper to start over than to after I get the whole case done.

Thanks in advance and any help is appreciated.

It is enamel.

You are probably getting some lift around where you sanded through the old finish.

Solvent pop usually looks like little pin holes or tiny bubbles and can be mistaken for dirt. To reduce solvent pop make sure you recoat within the time the can says or wait till it is conpletely dry.

Another tip to make it look better is to not use the silver base that goes with the system,buy a different silver with a finer metallic and it will look more like the real thing.

Also, you will want to make sure you overlap your strokes evenly and get an even coat over the entire surface. It will stripe and be blotchy if you dont watch your stroke.

EDIT: DO NOT USE THE POLISH TO REMOVE THE OVERSPRAY ON THE GROUND COAT. If it is not cleaned off extremely well it will cause all kinds of problems.You can wetsand the final finish of the transparent red to remove all the grainy stuff if needed.

Ok, so being enamel, it's best to get enamel clear, correct? Guess that means I hope that Wal-Mart will take back the 2 cans of laquer clear. Is clear enamel common or is it going to be a bit difficult to find. Does it matter if it is the same brand? I've seen some sites that say it is best to use the same brand.

Quote: Originally Posted by Lunamods Solvent pop usually looks like little pin holes or tiny bubbles and can be mistaken for dirt. To reduce solvent pop make sure you recoat within the time the can says or wait till it is conpletely dry.

What I have is probably lift because your description of solvent pop does not match what I'm seeing.

Quote: Originally Posted by Lunamods EDIT: DO NOT USE THE POLISH TO REMOVE THE OVERSPRAY ON THE GROUND COAT. If it is not cleaned off extremely well it will cause all kinds of problems.You can wetsand the final finish of the transparent red to remove all the grainy stuff if needed.

Is Meguiars #1 (Medium-Cut Cleaner) considered polish? I was thinking it is cleaner that is finer than sandpaper and rougher than rubbing compound.

I am liking what I'm seeing (color-wise) so far from this stuff. I imagine it would be easier if I were not using an old case that has a solid cover and not 2 sides and a top. I almost have to wait a day between sides.