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| | #1 (permalink) | |
| IÂ’m making a water block to go with the rest of my homemade water cooling system. The problem is that it is going to be for my new rig, which due to the penny sized budget isnÂ’t going to be here any time soon. I need some help on the dimensions aspect. I am going to be buying a socket 939 mobo, and I need to know the dimensions of the cpu, and I need to know where the heat sink mounting holes are; in relation to the cpu, and to each other (i.e. how far apart they are, and how far they are from cpu). I donÂ’t know where to find that info online, or anyone who has a 939 for me to check out... Input and insults welcome ![]() | ||
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| | #4 (permalink) | |
| wow, im sorry, - Im a PSU (penn state) fan, and they just lost... Michigan had 1 second left, they were on the ten, and they scored some how, my undefeated team, lost due to bad calls by the refs in the big house... im guna go hurt my brother's computer....-Thnx for the heads up, edit button it is BTW, has anyone else tried to make a waterblock or a watercooling system? I could use some tips to try and avoid the slip-ups, as i am a nub to watercooling. Last edited by lafez; 15-October-05 at 06:27 PM.. | ||
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| | #5 (permalink) | ||||||||||||||||||||||||
Hey bro, learn to use the edit button. It gets annoying when people just continue to post and post, when all they have to do is edit their original post. It keeps the thread nice and tidy.. Thanks Welcome to pimprig.. | |||||||||||||||||||||||||
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| | #6 (permalink) | |
| Ok, i need a bit more info...1) I need to know exactly how wide the cpu is itself, and 2) if the top of the cpu is higher than the raised part of the socket (where the lock arm attaches). If anyone has any info, i'd be greatful to hear it. And if anyone else has treid something like this before, it would be sweet to hear about your experiences. ![]() I need to get these last few dimensions b/c im making some CAD drawings, and hopefully I will be milling by next weekend! I'd pop a quick Paint sketch on here to show you what im talking about, but im not sure how to work it.. As you can see "tech hoe newbie," blah ... well, anywho, thanks for the help. | ||
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| | #7 (permalink) | ||||||||||||||||||||||||
The dimensions of the CPU are in my first post in the pic. Those are the dimensions of the IHS which is the aluminum piece that covers the Die of the chip. I also don't understand where you would need the height of the chip since the block sits on top and scews run through the mobo and block and they are compressed by spings. Therefor there's no need for chip height dimensions since the same block can sit on top of various heights of CPU's. The only that will happen if the CPU is taller is that you might need longer screwsto have the room to go through the moboand up through the block and still have room for the spings and cap screws to compress the springs. | |||||||||||||||||||||||||
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| | #8 (permalink) | |
| Thanks for the clerification on the IHS plate. I don't need the height persay, as i agree, the springs will compinsate. I simply wanted to know if the top of the cpu is higher than the socket on all sides (since there is a raised part of the socket where the locking arm attaches and functions) I was only asking because I have never run WC in my rig, and wanted to know if the block could over hang the cpu on the side that this raised portion is located (right side i believe). Thanks agian for your help - have some bling, and im srry if i frustrated you with repetative questions. ![]() Im still amazed though, out of all the people on pimprig, no one has tried making their own blocks? Thats not possible... | ||
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| | #9 (permalink) | |
| The little plastic thing that is surrounding the socket is removable so it's not in the way. Here is a pic of my DFI ultra-D with a TDX on top. Also there have been a few people that have made blocks around here but what it comes down to is price. For all the materials to make your own block, you can buy a block for less that would perform better. But Kudos to any one who makes there own stuff, I know how it feels to run something home made. It has that nice one of a kind feeling that you can't buy anywhere. | ||
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| | #11 (permalink) | |
| Iight, so the milling is underway... i dont have a lot of time, so it is going slowly, maybe i will get some pics up when im done. And completely off topic (i just didn't see need to start new thread.) I have an amazingly boring case, its a gmono something.. really cheap thing. I want to do something sweet to it.. maybe a lil HL2, or even DOD:S theme. Any suggestions? please lay 'em on~ my lil p.o.s.: ![]() http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16811180013 | ||
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| | #12 (permalink) | |
| This link im posting is a swede who made his own waterblock etc... even if you dont read the language, you might get some inspiration from the pictures. http://forum.sweclockers.com/showthr...hreadid=431734 | ||
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| | #13 (permalink) | |
| Wow, thats pimp. Thanks for the link man, i like that guys way of thinking. And anyone who can understand that stuff- could u tell me what hes doing with that fan (or maybe just fan blade) inside the plexi box, hooked up to the water circuit..? is it a functional fan thats moving the water, or is it just the blade, being moved by the water? Either way, thats a pimp idea. | ||
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| | #14 (permalink) | |
| Lokie's Personal WU-Hoe | What the fan blade does is acts as a flow meter, showing how fast the water is moving. It sure does add a nice little touch to it, anyone that is easily amused could find themself looking at it for a few minutes ![]() On a side note, his blocks are really low tech and probably don't cool very well. Maze style blocks have been phased out, although they could still be considered a decent choice for a peltier system because of the large amount of surface area cooled. Check out http://www.overclockers.com/topiclis...ATER%20COOLING for a ton of good information. There are a few home brew setups within all those articles, perhaps those could help you out with a feasible design for you to make. | |
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| | #17 (permalink) | ||||||||||||||||||||||||
That would only work if and only if they both have the same output rate. If one worked harder than the other, then you would likely run into some substantial problems. The way I see it, if the pumps don't have the same flow rates, you could try this: Have say 1/2" line running through your system. Instead of having one pump before and one after the reservoir, put a "Y" connector to split the line to perhaps two 3/8" lines and run them to both pumps. The pumps would run side-by-side and then bring to two lines back to 1/2" tubing with another "Y" connector. Each pump would be free to do it's own share of the owrk, but the flow rate would be that combined of the total output of each individual pump. Take a look at my crap-tastic picture as a reference. | |||||||||||||||||||||||||
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| | #19 (permalink) | |
| try the local scrapyard/metal salvage. Coppers only $1.25 - 1.50 a pound. If you cant find what you need right away just go back a couple times a week.If you go with silid copper you'll need a mill to do it right, or a drill press for something a little ghetto.try to find some hollow stock like in this pic that way all you have to do is make end caps .If you feel brave you can cut grooves inside for turbulence with a jigsaw. | ||
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