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Other Modding Discussions on modding things other than cases.

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Old 09-August-04, 11:29 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Cutting Plexiglass

I was cutting plexi earlier today. I use a dremel cut-off wheel, because it seems to be the easiest to use. I'm still experimenting so suggestions are welcome... Anyway, I was cutting plexi and I noticed a distinct aroma coming from the cut. I didn't really think anything of it and decided to finish the cut. I got all the way through and REALLY noticed the smell. I put down the dremel and started feeling dizzy. Is this stuff toxic? kinda made me sick. should I use a mask? It's for a little project I'm working on... hint: I love Dance Dance Revolution!!
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Old 09-August-04, 11:49 PM   #2 (permalink)
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when you run the dremel at high RPMs, it melts the plexi. You were inhaling burning plastic fumes. not exactly good for ya.

I've had good luck cutting plexi with a band saw, but I'm sure there are better ideas floating around.
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Old 09-August-04, 11:54 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cpt. Dave Smoke 'ems
I was cutting plexi earlier today. I use a dremel cut-off wheel, because it seems to be the easiest to use. I'm still experimenting so suggestions are welcome... Anyway, I was cutting plexi and I noticed a distinct aroma coming from the cut. I didn't really think anything of it and decided to finish the cut. I got all the way through and REALLY noticed the smell. I put down the dremel and started feeling dizzy. Is this stuff toxic? kinda made me sick. should I use a mask? It's for a little project I'm working on... hint: I love Dance Dance Revolution!!

Yes they are Toxic fumes, you should do it in a well ventilated area, a mask is nice, but a good fan and open areas are acceptable if you are not doing prolonged cutting.

Don't heat it up too much when cutting, go slow, otherwise it just balls up and fills up the disk with material
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Old 09-August-04, 11:57 PM   #4 (permalink)
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the EASIETS way to cut plexi and you can do it super fast withouth melting it, is to get the drywall cutting attachment roto zip thing for your dremel, it works great, just make sure you have few inches of clearence on the back side of your plexi in the area you are cutting.

Last edited by Spc. Forces Bob; 10-August-04 at 12:24 AM..
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Old 10-August-04, 12:14 AM   #5 (permalink)
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If it's just straight cuts or simple curves I just use an acrylic scoring knife... alot faster once you get used to it (for me anyway).
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Old 10-August-04, 12:37 AM   #6 (permalink)
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If it's just straight cuts or simple curves I just use an acrylic scoring knife... alot faster once you get used to it (for me anyway).

straight cuts = scoring and snapping. Invest in a good straightedge.
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Old 10-August-04, 01:02 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Mmm, smells like pepperminty toilet bowl cleaner.
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Old 10-August-04, 12:53 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Well, I got half of my cuts done and now I am trying to figure out how to finish it. The edges of all the cuts are very jagged. I left a good bit of material around the edges so I can get a nice sand job or other attachment. I think I have a drywall attachment, I'll have to try that. I can't seem to find my router attachment for the dremel though... It's supposed to keep the tool straight up and down for just such an occasion, a bit expensive too. If I remember right it was like 10 bucks. They are all straight cuts. I tried that score and snap tecnique before and it always shatters the plexi into about three or four peices. Prolly because I don't have a very good straight edge or maybe it's cheap plexiglass?

what's a band saw? is it that thing with the table and the blade in the middle? I have one o them...
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Old 10-August-04, 01:10 PM   #9 (permalink)
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If it is all straight cuts, then the table saw (the table with the big round blade in it (i am assuming)) will work better than the bandsaw. Just watch your fingers and use the gaurds....

not responsible for any loss of fingers, eyes, etc.
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Old 10-August-04, 02:00 PM   #10 (permalink)
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If you are going to be using a table saw make sure you have a fine toothed blade and go slow. But...as I was always told, if you don't know the name for the tool...your probably shouldn't be using it.
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Old 10-August-04, 03:12 PM   #11 (permalink)
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git a jig saw! they work really good. its fast an cuts great. or like poop said works well too.
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Old 10-August-04, 05:09 PM   #12 (permalink)
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I score and snap. I use a box cutter and a level as my straight edge, just Vise-Grip it down and go over the line 2-3 times with the box cutter and it snaps perfectly.

Very little finishing to do after that, and for finishing. I take sandpaper from 150 grit to 800-1000 and it gives it a nice edge.

Also if you have a Home Depot around, just go there, they will cut it for free!!
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Old 10-August-04, 05:38 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Just got done doing a little more experimenting. Apparently a scroll saw works quite well. I was going to do the jigsaw but figured it's pretty much the same thing. You have to keep a hold on it or it'll vibrate to hell and snap. I got a nice clean edge too. I'll try the snap deelie on the next set of plexi. Now if only I could get my hands to stop shaking long enough to get a straight cut. damn coffee. Oh yeah, the plexiglass ripped up my sand paper.
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Old 10-August-04, 05:41 PM   #14 (permalink)
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I use a bandsaw.
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Old 10-August-04, 05:42 PM   #15 (permalink)
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I have a huge sheet of plexi (36x36) that i need to cut later into several pieces. I have a jigsaw i was gonna use, and a dremel for the corners and small stuff, but is breaking better? I'd be worried about trying to make a 36" long break... Is there a grain to plexi like there is normal glass? Should i just stick with the jigsaw for the big cuts? I have a tablesaw too but i dont know if we have any fine toothed blades...

Also, 2 of those pieces are replacing the sides of an old CRT casing, how careful do i need to be in there? Its been off and unplugged for 24 hours...

hmm, 3rd question, will plastikote still work well on stained plasitc? I've got an old CRT i'm modding tonight that i got from my old office, and its pretty yellowed with cigarette residue...

EDIT: Anyone know where i could find 5V or so inside a monitor? I dont wanna be poking around in there with a multimeter... Is it even worth it to light the inside?

Ah, what the hell, one more, slightly more on topic. How would i go about mounting a flush window? In a case, the metal is thin, and a 1/16th inch recess isn't a big deal, but the plastic on the monitor casing and my xbox are substantially thicker... It wont be a problem to cut it to fit, but how would i mount it, some kind of epoxy around the edge before i set it in?

Last edited by Cyno01; 10-August-04 at 05:55 PM..
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Old 10-August-04, 06:18 PM   #16 (permalink)
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I use a table saw. I just lock the straightedge in place and go to town....slowly. If you're not slow about it, you'll melt the stuff, and that's no fun. A little bit of melting is alright, you can file it off.


Kinda But FYI:
For blowholes I use my own "technique". I take a holesaw, strap the piece down on a piece of wood, and have someone to spray some water on it so it doesn't melt. It looks good, and won't crack if you have a low rpm drill and go slow.

I know I know, water and electricity don't mix, but if you aren't a jackass about it and keep the waterflow constant and at the base of the holesaw, you'll have no problems.
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Old 12-August-04, 05:53 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cyno01
Also, 2 of those pieces are replacing the sides of an old CRT casing, how careful do i need to be in there? Its been off and unplugged for 24 hours...

hmm, 3rd question, will plastikote still work well on stained plasitc? I've got an old CRT i'm modding tonight that i got from my old office, and its pretty yellowed with cigarette residue...

EDIT: Anyone know where i could find 5V or so inside a monitor? I dont wanna be poking around in there with a multimeter... Is it even worth it to light the inside?

Just watch the fudge out for the capacitors t(he big cylinder jobbers)
And no I dont think its worth it to see in there first off you'd need lights in there and theres not too many ways to get power in there that I know of, Second its rather boring inside... I had an iMac and it was clear wasnt that neat.

Hope that helped.

PS my iMac died and went to Computer Heaven along with my Dell Dimension 2350
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Old 12-August-04, 08:16 PM   #18 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cyno01
Also, 2 of those pieces are replacing the sides of an old CRT casing, how careful do i need to be in there? Its been off and unplugged for 24 hours...

Depends on the tube. The capacitors alone can kill you.... the tube could do it a few times over. Last tube I discharged, melted 2" off the tip of my biggest screwdriver and welded the rest to the copper wire used to ground it.... That was an old TV, about 25", which had been unplugged for over a month.

BE VERY CAREFUL!
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Old 13-August-04, 12:57 AM   #19 (permalink)
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I personally stick with the score and snap method....I tried a jigsaw but it just melted back together behind the blade....was I going too fast?
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Old 13-August-04, 01:11 AM   #20 (permalink)
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I use score and snap, but when i can I use a table saw with a plastic cutting blade on it.

With the Table Saw I we nice smooth edges if I go slow, however If i go a bit too fast i have sanding to do
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