Hi all just built a new system and clocked it to 1600mhzQDR for 2.8GHZ. I wanna go further but mobo won't load bios past 1600MHZ atm so think i'll try flashing to the latest shortly.

So anyways I am getting crazy temps reported by speedfan and coretemp, it says I am idling at 50degrees with peaks of 70! Incidentally asus pc probe reports are a lot more optimistic, with temps generally being a few degrees lower

Cpu volts are 1.39 + 100mV offset
Cooler is scythe ninja and included fan which runs @1300rpm
I re-applied AS5 cos initially I put too little, it definately dropped temps by 8-10 degrees I think but then I upped volts anyway and now idle at 50 supposedly.

The heatsink does not feel warm/hot at all I am really confused as to what is going on are my sensors screwed?

Thanks

I was running a E6300 and I tried it with 2 differnt mobo's (D975XBX & EVGA 680i).
The intel board reported temps like yours though the 680i board were lower, but
high just the same. I have a Digital Thermometer that says I was at 35-36C when
my bios was reporting 48-49 C idle. I also have a Scythe Ninja but I'm not using it
as I have a Scythe Mine that works more better. I would get a good loud and noisy
100 cfm+ fan or switch to a better heatsink design. I'm sure some one will buy that
Ninja from ya :-)

Pete, CoreTemp and SpeedFan apparently have issues with the temperature sensors on this board as I told you the other night. As for your settings, currently I am at 3.3ghz w/ 1.375vCore, 1.56nbV, vCore Offset=+100mV - is your northbridge at the 1.56v setting? Additionally, many people report issues while overclocking if their memory modules are not in both black slots.

I don't understand the ninja is a beast and personally looks like it is an adequate cooler?! It cost me £35 ($70) and I modded the bracket to clear some caps near the CPU socket, i'd rather keep it tbh especially if these high temps amount to nothing

NB is at 1.56now yeh, HR-05 just takes its pain tho heh
Mem Is in both black slots

Another thing, on my old rig it took time to warm/cool the CPU, as you'd expect. As soon as I press 'start' in orthos BAM! CPU temp goes to 69/70 and when I press stop straight back down to 50 again! What's the crack with that?

It's very stable atm, 12hrs orthos with no errors @ 2.8ghz, just want a liddddle more pls:p

Cooling looks ok? the side intake fan when on, blows right onto the Ninja too!

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Quote: Originally Posted by SYNERGY I don't understand the ninja is a beast and personally looks like it is an adequate cooler?! It cost me £35 ($70) and I modded the bracket to clear some caps near the CPU socket, i'd rather keep it tbh especially if these high temps amount to nothing Another thing, on my old rig it took time to warm/cool the CPU, as you'd expect. As soon as I press 'start' in orthos BAM! CPU temp goes to 69/70 and when I press stop straight back down to 50 again! What's the crack with that? It's v/stable atm, 12hrs orthos with no errors @ 2.8ghz, just want a liddddle more pls:p

The motherboard temp sensors are crap. If it's Orthos stable after 12 hours, it absolutely ISNT overheating and is perfectly happy. Hell, if I run Orthos for two minutes CoreTemp whines "CPU OVERHEATING!! SHUTDOWN IMMEDIATELY!" and tells me it's at 123c. It obviously isn't. If you experience BSODs and crashes under load, that's when she's getting too hot/not getting enough voltage.

P.S. Do you want me to update your sig?

Ok i'll keep on ignoring the sensors!
Yeh updated sig would be awesome, just don't know where system is gonna end up at type thing, i'll keep you posted i'm sure:p

Just get a temp sensor for peace of mind.

Also, I don't think you need that much vcore to get to 2.8Ghz. Try reducing it in steps and running some kind of stress test in Windows to see if its stable. If it is, keep reducing until you get an unstable system, then use the setting up from that.

That'll reduce your temps

Ok dex re the v-core, I was planning to lower it in time but I still hope to break 3.0ghz then i'll be a happy chap

Interestingly oblivion runs fine maxed out (amaaaazing) but farcry I get BSOD and reset after only a few mins?! WTF...

where do you put these temp sensors? at base of heatsink or back of mobo under CPU die?

i dont know why people use speedfan in most of the time & most boards it will give wrong temps
i tried on a fiew boards & it always off (lower or higher then what you'll get from Bios)

one of the best way to know your temps are to go see in the bios or using better software like Everest or Sandra.

as for the game you may not be stable on your overclock?
or you need a patch for it there is a new one out v1.4 that you can try & see if it's help?

http://forums.pcapex.com/anything_go...tch_1_4_a.html


what kind of PSU do you have?

goodman my farcry was patched immediately to 1.4, the cumulative patch its called
I don't understand how its 12hrs orthos stable as well as stable in oblivion but not farcry

PSU is corsair 620W

Quote: Originally Posted by SYNERGY goodman my farcry was patched immediately to 1.4, the cumulative patch its called I don't understand how its 12hrs orthos stable as well as stable in oblivion but not farcry PSU is corsair 620W

maybe your video drivers?
what do you got as video card?

i know you tried Orthos but you may want to try Prime95 also just to be sure...

Quote: Originally Posted by SYNERGY goodman my farcry was patched immediately to 1.4, the cumulative patch its called I don't understand how its 12hrs orthos stable as well as stable in oblivion but not farcry PSU is corsair 620W

Run 3DMark a few times, or better still, leave it looping the Deep Freeze test. I'm pretty sure your CPU overclock is not causing the BSODs in Far Cry - so maybe there's something up with your video card.

I still think it's the Scythe Ninja. I've got one sitting on a shelf just feet away.
It's suppose to be a noiseless solution with an optional fan. I was using it with
a X2 4800 and a 5000 rpm 100cfm fan. It was better than the stock heatsink,
but not by much. It doesn't have enough fins, and the fins are spaced to far
apart. So most of the air blowing through the fins is in fact cooling nothing. I
bought the Scythe Mine and the improvement was immediate.

running at 3.3ghz atm need to clock up memory to 1:1 next

interestingly temps have stabilised now, since I drove the pc back to uni temps are 40-41 idle and 51-52 load!

graphics is BFG 8800GTS 640MB goodman123, updating from nvidia site now to see what happens

Quote: Originally Posted by SYNERGY running at 3.3ghz atm need to clock up memory to 1:1 next interestingly temps have stabilised now, since I drove the pc back to uni temps are 40-41 idle and 51-52 load! graphics is BFG 8800GTS 640MB goodman123, updating from nvidia site now to see what happens

Glad you're running a bit better now. One thing I will say is, though, this board is random as hell. When I first got it - It would refuse to hibernate full stop, or reboot after doing it, BSOD on booting, reboot etc. etc. Then I had three weeks of complete stability barring one crash - and now it's freezing up on me once every few hours, but strangely enough, not when it's under load. I just watched 'I Robot', and I think the line about 'Ghosts in the machine' is very apt...I think my PC might be posessed...

Ah yeh I-robot was just on, then I needed to work

I've had problems in bios, it would freeze and be unresponsive quite a few times around my max OC?!
I've tried auto voltages as well as manual, with auto being very low 1.3-1.29v. I want to find a way to get 3.3ghz stable...
CPU froze in 3dmark06 CPU test so i've downclocked it a bit now Interesting housemates' E6300 appears pretty stable so far at 3.5ghz on the same board!

Just played lost coast maxed x4AA v-sync and it looks amazing and is soo smooth it's like you are running alll the time even when walking!

Gotta say I'm not sold on this Scythe Ninja.

With my E6600 @ 3.2ghz @ 1.3v I hit 57c full-load.

If I raise my voltage to stock 1.35v @ 3.2ghz I get 63c, and if I then push the CPU to 3.4ghz @ 1.3625 I hit 68c.

I still get 34c idle etc, my case circlulation is fine and so fourth. The main problem is the sodding concave HSF. I'm not lapping to void my warranty, so I just have to stick to 3.0ghz if I want to stay under 55c