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| Extreme Cooling Peltiers,N2,Water...You name it... |
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| | #1 (permalink) | |
| Hello my H2Hoes! As some of you know I was gonna use h20 but then wussed out. I have been fairly happy with my slk-800a and tornado fan so far, and casually pushed my 1700+ to over 2ghz.. (Iv'e had alot of trouble getting the comp running smoothly but seem to have isolated and eliminated the problem) Here's the Problem: I just started college and my room mate, cannot live with the noise of my tornado. So now it looks like I'm gonna use H20! My motherboard doesnt have the holes for the lugs so I know that my block choices will be limited. I'm looking at getting either a Swiftech kit from Fry's (170 with a GPU block also I think), or possibly the corsair external unit, or maybe a decently priced DIY setup. Edit: Oh yeah, I have one 120mm hole in the very top, a 92mm hole above psu, and various 80mm holes int he front and back. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated! Thanks Guys Putwig: You wanna sell me that corsair unit? LOL Last edited by Dead_Man; 03-September-03 at 04:55 PM.. | ||
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| | #2 (permalink) | |
| Um maybe you just wrote it wrong but "I'm looking at either a Swiftech kit from Fry's (170 with a GPU block also I think) possibly the corsair external unit also, and maybe a decently priced DIY setup." , says to me you plan on getting all three!? Don't mean to be picky. As for the setup, for ease of installation I would probably have to go with the Corsair as the easiest, and the DIY as the hardest. As for customization, DIY would be best, Corsair worst. Cost could go either way. The DIY could give you the same performance as the others for the same or less than the price of the others, or it could exceed their performance, but cost you more. It's up to you. I personally went with a DIY right off the bat simply because those kits aren't really made for major overclocking....they are geared towards beginners. With some planning and foresight it isn't too difficult and much better IMHO. If you need specific questions answered, reember to ask. Here is a basic guide to watercooling. It's a good read for beginners. Check it out. http://discuss.futuremark.com/forum/...&Number=687640 P.S. Before going to water, another alternative would be hooking the Tornado up to a rheostat, baybus, or just rewire it so that it draws less current....7V or 5V. Oh yeah, and welcome back. ![]() Last edited by lAnonymousl; 03-September-03 at 04:50 PM.. | ||
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| | #3 (permalink) | |
| I thought about trying a fan that was less noisy or a rheostat on the tornado, but along with the lower noise, you get lower cooling ability, and I would like to get my 1700+ to around 2.2 or 2.3ghz so I just don't think that would work. Edit: I think I cleared up the grammar in my first post now. | ||
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| | #7 (permalink) | |
| AntiM: Do you have any suggestions as to which kit would be good? I highly value your opinion. I have a Volcano 9+ on my other computer, I could yank the fan off that and maybe that would be quieter. I really want to do the water though, just not sure if I can spare the cash. | ||
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| | #8 (permalink) | |
| Dead_Man, We all contributed to a four page thread where you asks the same question two months ago. I don't think our suggestions will have changed a whole lot. Here is the link: http://forums.pcapex.com/showthread....r&pagenumber=4 If you need to use the socket lugs, the Corsair is a good choice. I would not try to add GPU cooling etc into the circuit though. The Koolance Exos would be a very similar choice. My next choice would probably be Innovatech gear, but it is expensive. The swiftech kit is decent, but I think the radiator is a light weight. Also, they use goofy tubing connectors that I do not care for. | ||
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| | #9 (permalink) | |
| Well being in college you're going to be moving a lot. I think the Exos or Corsair would be good choices. I think the Koolance block and cooling unit might take a little more wear and tear than the Corsair. Just a guess. I'm still not sold on the Corsair block, too many conflicting reviews. But even though you can pick one up at Fry's and save on shipping, 230 bucks is hard to come by in college. Try the volcano fan or a rheostat on it before you do anything. | ||
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| | #10 (permalink) | |
| LOL Putwig, I knew about my old thread. But because I now have a mobo with just the socket lugs, I thought I would ask again because I know that the lugs will limit my options. AntiM: I will try the volcano fan, because like you said, spare money at college is hard to find. I have wanted to go with water the whole time, I just got scared before cuz I had never fully assembled a computer myself. Also, my local Fry's doesn't seem to carry the corsair unit They have the Koolance, Swiftech, and crappy Thermaltake Aquarius 2.Thanks Again guys, I can't tell you how much I appreciate your help! | ||
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| | #11 (permalink) | |
| I just wanted to update you guys, so you won't think I'm wasting your time. I purchased a swiftech kit from Fry's and had it mostly installed (all that was left was cutting/fitting tubes and filling for leak test) and i realized that a few small parts were missing. I also later realized that the kit I got was the discontinued model. Well i took that puppy back (because of the missing parts) and am now looking around at the other kits. hopefully the kit i get weill also utilize the external power plug, seeing as how i had to drill one in the back of my case. LOL | ||
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| | #13 (permalink) | |
| Well since I only have an Eheim, that's all I can vouch for. They do come with a standard wall-socket power plug. That's also one of the reasons I chose it....there is no need for a relay kit because if you plug it into the same power strip as the rest of your comp, there is no way the comp can be on without the pump. Keep in mind though, that Eheims aren't specifically designed for a computer setup, which is why they have the standard plug. Any pump designed for out-of-computer-use would also have a similar plug, such as aquarium pumps, fountain pumps, etc... Edit--I just found a pic of an L30 with a standard plug switch, so I assume the L20's wouldn't be any different. Also, I believe all the Danner Mags come with standrad power plugs. http://www.voyeurmods.com/detail.asp...CT_ID=WC-P-L30 Last edited by lAnonymousl; 13-September-03 at 09:44 PM.. | ||
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| | #14 (permalink) | |
| So then you just run the power cord out the back of the comp? I just though that would look hardcore GHETTO........ Thanks for the info! Also, does anyone know what the deal with sealing danner mag pumps is? is it necesary? Also, which would be better for a tab type block: Swiftech or a Danger Den Maze 4 with socket hold down device? Oh and how do the innovatek blocks perform? LOL i think i covered all blocks that use the socket lugs. Thanks | ||
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| | #16 (permalink) | |
| Well, I use a pump relay switch. You can also buy a plug replacement from Home Depot. Snip off the old one, run it out a pci slot and wire on the new plug. Eheim also makes a 12 volt pump. Kinda pricey though and DC pumps are not my first choice. For a 1/2" system, Swiftech's new MCW5002-A would be a good choice. Decent integrated hold down. Swiftech is also selling a new pump that runs off a molex connector. By the specs, it looks like a winner. Seems Bill Adams is having a good influence on Swiftech.Danger Den's socket hold down is kind of bulky and expensive, but I don't see why it wouldn't work. For 3/8" system (providing you buy the 10mm barb fittings), the Innovatek blocks have probably the best hold down ever made for tab mounting. I have a Rev. 3. It is an outstanding performer. Sealing a Danner Mag pump I feel is essential. It might not leak, but many have. Why take the chance? A little RTV silicone or Plumbers Goop around the impellor housing seal is all it takes. | ||
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| | #17 (permalink) | |
| Apex Tech Fanatic | Just run the Tornado on 7v, 5v wont be enough to even get the sucker spinning. If you dont have a rhoebus, then just attach the red leed on the fan to the yellow on the molex, and the black leed on the fan to the red leed on the molex. I run my Tornado @ around 7-8 volts on my sunbeamtech rhoebus and its barely audible, and im still running just above case temperatue, which is 29c. CPU runs @ 35c @ load @ stock speeds. Can't complain about that. | |
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| | #18 (permalink) | |
| AMD Daddy: I would but I want atleast a 500-800mhz OC on my proc. Cheshiredemon: LOL, i dont know if you have ever heard an 80mm Vantec Tornado or not, but they would have to be very loud headphones LOL. Why did I have to get given a Mac usng roomate???? Hmm I'm gpnna really consider that Innovatek block, if AntiM likes it it must be good! Also, even though my case is freaking huge (26 inch full tower) i'M sure where I can mount a 120mm radiator except on the top, will this be ok? (it would make the rad the highest point in the loop instead of the res/f&B kit) Thanks Again | ||
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| | #19 (permalink) | |
| A top mount rad is not ideal (it will trap some air), but it will work fine. If you don't want to run your pump cord out the back, try one of these solutions: http://www.procooling.com/articles/h..._pumps_-_p.php As for sealing the mag drive, it is essential. I have had two and both leaked. Here is a how too: http://www.procooling.com/articles/h...___3_31_00.php | ||
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| | #20 (permalink) | |
| Lokie's Personal WU-Hoe | I probably missed something, but why don't you just order the Corsair Hydrocool from ZipZoomFly?(formerly known as googlegear.com) It has free 2nd day shipping too and costs $235. Newegg has it for $234 with free ~3 day shipping. Read Putwig's review on it, read every review on it, it performs awesome. This will solve all your problems and will get you a very good performing system in the process. | |
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