i ahve a very big problem with my cooling system. on the output of the pump which is a hydor l20. the connection between the tubing and the barb is leaking and i need help stopping it. i have a hose clamp on it and have recut the end to see if that would work. it is dripping steadily so more help the better plese let me know wht you think.

Take the tubing off and examine the barb. It is possible that you have a crack in the plastic. Perhaps from over tightening the clamp.

Are the tubing and barb size matched?

The hose, brb n stuff r the sme size.i don;t see crcks or nything on thebrb. Would tefolon tpe work on the brb on then slide the tube over it? epoxy nything you cn think of would be good.

You could replace the plastic fittings with brass barbs I would think. And use teflon tape or pipe sealant on the threads. Plumbers goop would work. Also a good idea to put plumbers goop around the impeller assembly.


Edit: Teflon on the barb itself wouldn't help. What kind of clamp are you using?

could i put goop or tefolon on the plstic brbs? Dont see why not but could i? Wht ws the impeller? Would tht work ok with the tubing?

Gah...someone translate this and I ll offer any advice I can come up with.

Use Plumbers goop, let dry for over 24 hours and you got yourself a perfect seal.

Tephlon tape is only used on pipe threads, and it should always be used on threads.

It will not help to put it on barbs.

You could put Plumber's Goop on the barb, and then slide the tubing over the gooped up barb. It would probably work.

I would want to know why my pump was leaking, and I therefore would be looking for a solution rather than a fix.

The impeller is the propeller on magnet that actually spins within the pump.

Ok sorry for all the wierd writing. my keyboard was soaked in anfreeze and whatever else so it was not working right. I hae a big problem with the output on my pump and its connection for the tubing. the barb is not cracked and i have tried a metal clamp on it. the clamp will slow the drip do\wn but it is still there. Could i use some kind of adhesive or plumbers lue to make the sone of a bi@#* stop leaking? Hopefully you guys canhelp me out.

The tubing should seal fine without anything on the barb but the tubing and a clamp to hold it in place. Are you sure the leak isn't coming from the threads that go into the pump itself? Again...what kind of clamp are you using?

The impeller is what moves the water. It's behind the thingy that screws into the front of the pump.

my dad had some minor leaks with his huge saltwater fishtank setup, all he did to fix that join that was leaking was use a good amount of plumbers goop, let it dry overnight and start up the pump again and it worked just fine with no leaks whatsoever.

I have a feeling it isn't the barb and tubing. You'll almost never see a leak there unless the barb is cracked. More likely the threads on the barb. Or the impeller assembly is leaking...which is common in mag drive and from what I've read lately, Hydor's as well.

I'd drain it. Plumbers goop around the seals on the impeller housing and goop or teflon tape the fitting threads.

Agreed

ok i think i learned a new WC term, the impeller is kinda like a perpeller but kinda sorta, its INSIDE the pump to move water instead of on a boat where its OUTSIDE.

Would i be able to use regular plumbers pipe sealant, or do i have to use Plumbers Goop? Let me know

Ok sorry guys but i took the hose off and have drained it and there is a crack big enough now for me to see. It is about a 1/4 inch long from the end of the barb. Is there any fix or solution to this? I am going out now to Home Depot to see if i can get a replacement metal barb for my pump a hydor l20 if anyone knows or has tried this let me know or if you have any suggestions. Can i still use plumbers goop on the barb to fix the crack and put a seal on it?

Told you your barb had to be cracked.

No, you can't use GOOP to fix a busted barb.

Unscrew the barb from the front of the pump, and replace it with a brass one.

Make sure to use tephlon thread tape when you screw in the new metal barb.

Ok well i will do that. I tried Sutherlands and Home Depot and neither of them have the right kind of barb for the hydor L20 1/2 inch fittings i am going to try one more place tommorow but do you know of a place online where i can find the brass barb?

Ace hardware.your helpful hardware man....a butload of on-line places as well. If you can't find any let me know I've got mass 1/2'' hose barb to 1/2'' male or female fittings...
good call putwig, the only two places for a output leak, and more times than not it's from over- torque, fitting or pump housing!!
people gotta remember. overtightening is worse that undertightening. just enough with a good sealer is best!

god im sick of hose barbs, just spent a day working on them... for an A/C on a boat.
*Begin Thread Hijack*
The non-selfpriming pump is above sea level and the input is of couse way below sea level. Any one know of any way to prime the pump with out having to undo the barb and force the air out with sea water?

for reverence the a/c is water cooled (if you haven't figured that out already) and to get this water to it it must be sucked out from a sea**** on the bottom of the boat and through a strainer. Then come the pump.

oh yeah, if anyone wants really fast water cooling with higher pressure, look for a marine fresh water pump from boat US or somthing, they have pumps around 720gph i think.