Hi,
I am seriously looking into getting a peltier, but I have some questions and concerns that I would like to learn more about first. I am looking at a 226 w that measures 50mm by 50mm (http://www.frozencpu.com/exp-01.html?id=2urPWX3g). There's also an 80w 40mmx40mm peltier, but I am not sure how well that would work.
From what I've read, the entire peltier needs to be cooled (please correct me if I am wrong). I have a koolance Exos (the first one, not the second), my CPU block is the CPU-300-H06 (http://www.koolance.com/shop/product...roducts_id=114) and I have an nv2-l06.

The CPU block has a slightly raised centre, if it does not cover the whole peltier, could thermal paste be used, or should I find a smaller peltier? (I haven't yet measured the raised section, but I will before doing anything)

The original Exos can displace a little over 500Watts, so I am guessing that (again, correct me if I am wrong) it could cope with a 226W peltier with no issues.

A seperate power supply is obviously required. From what I can tell, MeanWell makes a mean PSU. I am also interested in others, so... any recommendations

I am assuming that thermal paste needs to be applied to both side of the peltier. Is this correct?

Would I need to start the peltier say, 30 seconds before starting the system? And how long does it usually take for the hot side to get hot?

Finally, (I am sorry for the long list, but I would like to get answers and input from people with lots of experience) how reliable is a peltier if it's being used properly? Do the last a long while or a fairly short time?

Thanks sooooo much in advance and again, sorry for the long list

Your 226W choice is a good one, and it should work fine. Things to make sure of:

-You water block needs to cover the entire pelt. That is, the peltier needs to have full contact with the block so it has the greatest cooling potential.
-Make sure you give the pelt the proper amount of power. Try to stay within the recommended voltage and amperage requirements for the peltier. This will keep the pelt working efficiently, when you run the pelt undervolted/underamped, you will severely cripple it's efficency.
-Yes, apply thermal grease to both sides of the pelt. If you don't, you can burn it out. Also make sure to get a cold plate for your pelt. A CPU core has a centralized "spot" of heat on the die, a cold plate helps dissperse the heat over the entire area of the pelt for better cooling.
-Running the pelt for a minute or so before system startup is probably a good measure to prevent a premature CPU burnout.
-MOST IMPORTANT. Make sure and insulate adequately. Use neoprene and/or foam and lots of dielectric grease to insulate anywhere and everywhere the mobo and CPU will get cold. Around the socket, IN the socket, and behind the socket! Don't skimp here or you could end up regreting it!!!

Pelts can be very reliable if you use them properly. When used correctly, they are very good cooling solutions... but incorrectly used and they're just a big pain in the arse!

So that's what cold plates are used for. The cold plate is required for chips that have heat spreaders?
And sorry, one more thing for now, when you say IN the socket, do you mean on it (where the holes for the pins are), or in the centre, like with a socket 478 or 775, because I have a socket 939.

Thanks, your answers are great

Quote: Originally Posted by Fire Hawk So that's what cold plates are used for. The cold plate is required for chips that have heat spreaders? And sorry, one more thing for now, when you say IN the socket, do you mean on it (where the holes for the pins are), or in the centre, like with a socket 478 or 775, because I have a socket 939. Thanks, your answers are great

Use a cold plate regardless. However, your retaining screws may not be long enough. I don't know much about Exos water blocks. Use a cold plate however humanly possible.

And yes, put thermal grease on the socket, and on the CPU pins. Since you have 939, just put that grease all over it. To simplify things... put thermal grease on anything within a 3 inch radius around your CPU, front and backside of the mobo. And use a big pad of neoprene or foam on the backside of the mobo, with plenty of thermal grease between it and the mobo. Use squares of neoprene (or what have you) with squares cut in the middle and stack them around your core, with grease between layers.

Essentially, you are preventing humidity from condensing onto cold hardware. So anything that is really cold, you will have to insulate it.

Dont get the 80W that will cool some video cards (although I dont know the output of what the newer cards are).

Dont forget also, You must have a seperate PSU for your pelt. If you want to build one, I can help, but you have to do the calculations (not much..) See this post for more info

http://forums.pcapex.com/showpost.ph...5&postcount=26

Quote: Originally Posted by Nerdz Dont get the 80W that will cool some video cards (although I dont know the output of what the newer cards are). Dont forget also, You must have a seperate PSU for your pelt. If you want to build one, I can help, but you have to do the calculations (not much..) See this post for more info http://forums.pcapex.com/showpost.ph...5&postcount=26

hey, thanks. That's pretty cool and might be just what I am looking for. I apperciate your offer and I might take you up on it.

thanks

Quote: Originally Posted by Fire Hawk hey, thanks. That's pretty cool and might be just what I am looking for. I apperciate your offer and I might take you up on it. thanks

Good, since your using the same pelt that requires 16v, everything in that post is the same (since that was the pelt it was based on) If you went to the higher wattage pelt, onnly a couple changes are needed to be made.

Im really just awaiting the answers to go onto part 2 of that.

I might rewrite the whole thing and submit it as a guide to High Amp (or High Power) Power Supplies

As of yet, I am still not sure what I am going to do. I even started to have second thoughts today. Using a peltier would double the running cost of my system (not including my CRT). So, uh, yeah... I just thought I'd say that.
I should have a better answer after these STINKING EXAMS

Also consider if the PSU running your pelt dies, it will become one fine insulator between your cpu and waterblock. Better way to work it is to somehow incorporate the pelt into the water reservoir and chill the water.

Quote: Originally Posted by Slider Also consider if the PSU running your pelt dies, it will become one fine insulator between your cpu and waterblock. Better way to work it is to somehow incorporate the pelt into the water reservoir and chill the water.

That's one heck of an idea. I had also been thinking of some how rigging a peltier to my radiator, but whole idea didn't make too much sense. I never thought about putting it in the res, and if I do, I don't have to run it all the time and real low risk of damage due to a burn out.

What I might look into is getting my hands on another waterblock, installing it somewhere on the line out of the rad (to the CPU and GPU) and putting a pelt on that. Of course, i'd need a nice heat sink (preferably copper) and some decent fans.

If I could get some input as to if it would be reasonable to cool a 226w peltier with air, and if so, maybe what kind of heat sink and fans I could use. Also, would a higher end block be worth the cost if it was used here?

Thanks

Doesnt the Pentium put out that much? (the newer hotter cores) If so get a heatsink that can handle that much of a load.

Quote: Originally Posted by Slider Also consider if the PSU running your pelt dies, it will become one fine insulator between your cpu and waterblock. Better way to work it is to somehow incorporate the pelt into the water reservoir and chill the water.

While very true, imho that's a bad idea. Chillers aren't very efficient, especially when you make 'em yourself from pelts. If the pelt is cooling the water, what is cooling the pelt? Lol, another water cooling system?

There are always failsafes you can incorporate into the TEC cooling system to prevent you from starting a fire in your case. There are many temp/CPU monitoring programs that feature emergency overheat shutdown failsafes.

I don't think pelts are worth the extra energy expended. If you're going for the just for the helluva it factor, then go for it. Personally I wouldn't risk my hardware on software to autoshut down.

You should go with what Jobistober wrote. For extra protection you should use a spray can of silicon conformal coating to cover the entire motherboard and the back of it covering what must not be insulated with tape. Use closed cell neoprene and use a lot of dielectric grease. Condensation problems can harm all of your PC components so be careful. Best of luck.

This is not looking as fun as it was a week ago. Damn! I hate when I do this!

Quote: Originally Posted by Fire Hawk This is not looking as fun as it was a week ago. Damn! I hate when I do this!

If you look at that thread where Nerdz posted that guide you will find my experence with them....

I say stick to a good watercooling system. Yes I did not set up my system that well, however there is a lot more risk with a Pelt than with water cooling (done right) IMO.

Quote: Originally Posted by IcEMage If you look at that thread where Nerdz posted that guide you will find my experence with them.... I say stick to a good watercooling system. Yes I did not set up my system that well, however there is a lot more risk with a Pelt than with water cooling (done right) IMO.

Yeah, as I said I hate my self when I do this. I think I am just going to get my hands on some neoprene and add some sound insulation to my case, just because some times it's (my system) a bit irritating.

Quote: Originally Posted by Fire Hawk Yeah, as I said I hate my self when I do this. I think I am just going to get my hands on some neoprene and add some sound insulation to my case, just because some times it's (my system) a bit irritating.

Tru that man, I am saveing up for a phasechange system down the road hehe.

If you want to lower noise that is the way to go (insulation not the phasechange lol) fan controlers would help to.

you dont need conformal coating. just make sure you have airtight seals everywhere. you dont need to use grease or conformal. At -40 and below you dont get any condensation around the proc if you did a good job insulating. The only problem at THOSE temps is condensation around the insulation. This only happens when the proc is off. So basicaly if you already have w/c and want something more extreme go for a pelt (buy a pelt powersupply aswell) if you dont have cooling yet go for a phase-change unit (they get more looks and are alot better performance wise).

Thanks for the tips. I already have watercooling and I am always looking into doing something more extreme. I don't think I am ready for a TEC just yet, though. It would about double my system's power consumption, there for doubling the running cost.
Maybe in the near future, though.