just want to get some input on this CPU block Copper RBX for Athlon64 & Opteron 754/939/940 1/2 inch OD

i have seen a few posts where people say it isnt that good. im just curious why? its too late for me as i have just bought it and it is being shipped to me now. i couldalways return it if there is sufficient reasons it isnt that good.

im just upgraing my comp piece by piece. picked up a Ultra Modular PSU last night. got to love the fact there isnt a ****load of cables every where now. looks very nice in my clear acrylic case with my DFI LP UT 250G mobo. my next thing to upgrade will be my memory from 2700 to 3200 or better and then my CPU from a amd 64 2800 to a 3400 or better.

but anyways, need input on this block please

thanks, hellz

It's a damn good block. I prefer the TDX myself, but the temps between the two are very similar. Too bad you didn't try to win the one over in the "Make a Sig for Flounder" competition that is ongoing.

Quote: Originally Posted by BigAkita It's a damn good block. I prefer the TDX myself, but the temps between the two are very similar. Too bad you didn't try to win the one over in the "Make a Sig for Flounder" competition that is ongoing.

would i be better off with the TDX over the RBX?

i still have time prolly to have the order switched as i just called and its not being shipped till later today.

im trying to go for the best high performer one i can. if both are pretty much the same, the i wont worry about it. i got it with the additional nozzle options as well.

Their performance is pretty close, but the TDX only uses 2 barbs which I think is alot easier to plumb.

from what i red, you dont have to use the 3rd outlet on it. im not sure if a plug comes with it standard or not, but it should come with the additional kit i bought with it also. im not to sure yet if i want to really run 2 outlets ey either, but if i get a good enough pump i just may. not like i would have to run it very far anyways. just run it a few inch and use the "Y" to connect into 1 and that will go to the rad.

if thats the only reason people dont like it, i will leave the order as is then as i know it is doable with 1 or 2 outlets. i was just hoping there wasnt a performace issue or some type of jknown problem with em.

Quote: Originally Posted by Hellzarmy from what i red, you dont have to use the 3rd outlet on it. im not sure if a plug comes with it standard or not, but it should come with the additional kit i bought with it also. im not to sure yet if i want to really run 2 outlets ey either, but if i get a good enough pump i just may. not like i would have to run it very far anyways. just run it a few inch and use the "Y" to connect into 1 and that will go to the rad. if thats the only reason people dont like it, i will leave the order as is then as i know it is doable with 1 or 2 outlets. i was just hoping there wasnt a performace issue or some type of jknown problem with em.

i believe there would be a perf hit of a couple of degrees-C if you blocked up one of the barbs... cos heated water is not able to flow out of the block due to areas of no flow... can you provide a link to the plug? would like to take a look at it... thanx

regards

Why buy an RBX just to plug it? just get the TDX.

Also if you've got a low-flow loop the Swifty 6002 series has been putting up very good low flow numbers

Do not plug the center hole of the RBX. This only defeats the purpose of the jet spraying down on the center of the block (center of cpu).

Quote: Originally Posted by Arkangyl Also if you've got a low-flow loop the Swifty 6002 series has been putting up very good low flow numbers

for some reason this staytment bothers me. first you never want low flow..especially with an RBX or TDX block in use. the restriction that is required to make the jet impengment (SP?) effective acctually requires quite a bit of pressure. yes I know not always both coincide but the standard aquarium pump, which is what the majority of us yuse, usually bang that way.

low flow is not a good thing when water cooling..more flow is always better over low flow.

your RBX block will be fine, however DO NOT plug any of the holes center hole in 2 outer holes out. if your going to run a GPU and a chipset block your going to love the dual nature of the block. personally I have tried several blocks, even made a few (nothing spetacular mind you) and I love the performance of my RBX over the others....wish I could afford one of cathars latest wonders.

True, all blocks become more efficient as flow rates increase, however, water cooling encompasses much more than buying the best impingement block and biggest pump in order to overclock to the brink. Different people have different needs and so water blocks like the Swifty which perform well at "lower" flow rates have their place.

Hellz.....it was designed with 3 barbs for a reason....

i only said there was an option to plug one of the barbs.

as soon as i get s good pump 350+ gph then i will hook it up and run all 3 barbs. right now my current WC unit is a kit. its not the greatest thing, but it keep smy AMD 64 at a steady 30c under load. it is only a 1/4 tubing, and i am hoping that moving up to a 1/2 will provide alot better results.

this is my first attempt at a DIY, so i just want to make sure i get good parts. right now, i run a ATI 9550 card, so i wont get alot out of it, so i wont be buying a block for it. when i upgrade tho, i will definitly add it a vga block to the loop. for a radiator, i was planning on going down to a local auto store and picking up a intercooler rad. anyone able to offer any good choices????

i didnt go with tygon tubing, but instead went with DD's UV blue tubing. ill give it a try, but i have alot of left over dye from my current rig that switching to tygon wouldnt be a problem other than cutting and bleeding.

thanks everyone for thier input.

Hellz

If you're running a 30c under load, leave it alone man.

boot temps is about 25.5 to 27, idle is about 28 and 29,and under laod( I.E. playing doom, HL2 CS:S, or anythig else) the temps hover right around 31 to 32, every once and ahile i will see a 33 or 34c. so its not bad for a cheap kit. its a Titan TWC A04.

so far, its ok except that it is only 5/16 tubing, and cheap tubing at that. also, the hold down bracket for K8 Cpus doesnt fit. actually its the screws that arent long enought, but that could be my mobo fault. DFI LP UT 250g. right now i am using zip ties and a "H" bracket to hold the block to the CPU. it actually seems to be doing a good job. had to reseat it 2 times now. once just make sure it was all working after about a week. and the other when i moved into a new acyrlic case.also, i think the pump is kinda weak as well.

im hoping that moving up to 1/2 inch tubing, name brand block and hopfully a bigger rad will get my temps in the mid to high 20's. i dont know what my ambient room temp is, but i know its freaking cold in there.

also, anyone have any experience with this tubing from DD? http://www.dangerdenstore.com/produc...&cat=33&page=1

i picked this stuff over tygon just because i would preffer a bolder color instead of the faded color the dye gives. the dye looks good under UV, but in normal light it just looks looks faded kinda.

ill see how it turns out when i get it up and running. maybe i will take some pics of my rig and post em.

Hellz

Yes, I've used it, and it's not faded at all, and bends quite well.

just got a package from fedex....

so now i have my RBX block and tubing. now i am just waiting on my re-enlistment check form the army and i will buy a good pump 350gph+) and a nice radiator, also a res.

i was thinking of going to a auto store and buying a rad from there and modding it, but i think i will buy one thats all setup for everythign i need.

i really really liked those Dtek cube pumps. those would have been perfect running 2 of them in my rig. they are so small, and nice looking. would look nice in my case.

one thing i wanted to do, but cant with this case is.
you basicly have to build a rectangle case first thats the same hieghth and as a PC case, but only about 3 or 4 inchs wide. this part would need to be of thick acrylick as this is going to be your resevoir.
one side is going to be the outside where everyone can see it. also the inside wall will need to be of thicker acrylic.. like 1/2 inch since you will be mounting your mobo to the res.

after that, its just a standard case. your just building the res into the side that normally is just blank as that is the underside of your mobo.

if i do it right, i will have a normal clear case when looking at it from the normal side. the access panel side. from the otherside tho, it will be fileld with water all the way up. hopefully the water will get a UV dye color with a UV light at the bottom and maybe top. this way, when the UV light is on, the water is all bright and since i have a DFI mobo, the UV sensitive stuff on the backside of the mobo will light up as well. so you will be able to see the back of the mobo thru the water.

i will need to create a inlet and outlet barb on the res, but if i am able to do this all, that shouldnt be a problem.

with the pump at the bottom of the case, it will push the water up the whole way. meaning, from the pump to the CPU, to the Rad and if i get a good vid card to the VGA and then to res. so the only time the water travels in a downward motion is when it is going into the rad and the to the pump again.

so i think i will need a pump with alot of head on it. i could prolly decrease the res walls to about only 1 inch or so since that is going to be alot of water to fill the whole side of the case.


anyways,

Hellz