I'm having trouble which water block to use on my new system.
I want the best setup with some consideration into cost.

My setup options are:
1. $85 - D-tek White Water /w Aluminum Top, Dangerden Maze 4GPU, MAZE4 Chipset Block /w brass top
2. $80 - D-tek White Water /w Aluminum Top, PolarFlo TT GPU & Chipset
3. $146 - DangerDen Copper RBX & Maze 4 Chipset /w brass top, Maze 4GPU
4. $130 - PolarFlo TT CPU, GPU, Chipset
(D-tek White Water is from a previous system)

Additional Info:
Radiator: Black Ice XtremeII Radiator
Rad Fan: Silenx 120 mm x 2 (not sure about these, but since i already have them i might as well try)
Pumps: Danger Den DDC-12V
Reservoir: Danger Den Bay Reservoir High-Density Polyethylene

PS. Does any one know if Maze4Gpu works for 9700 pro, its seems to be excluded from the list.
another question, i haven't tried 1/2 id yet, does it make a difference?

Option #3
with the DD D-4 12vt pump .75" barbs
trade out the RBX for a TDX...
go .50" these blocks are designed for it.
the poly res is a good choice but you can also go a "T" line and fillport.
Yes the M-4 GPU block wil fit the 9700
BIX ll or the ThermoChill 120.2
That'd be my pick of components...

what zenn said, although i beleive you'd get better performance (especially for the price) with an AC pump like the hydor L35, which you can pick up for a little over 50 bucks... not 100% on the specs of that pump, but if i recall the DC pumps dont have near the same umph as the AC's (hydor and eheim are brands to look at)

ive always been a fan of ac pumps ( i have a hydor l35 running off of one of those pci slot power things) cause u can run them without the system on more easily. as far as the power of the pump itself goes, i always thought that too but zennzzo seems to love those danger den pumps and he is the master so there must be something i dont know lol

Quote: Originally Posted by floatingtrem what zenn said, although i beleive you'd get better performance (especially for the price) with an AC pump like the hydor L35, which you can pick up for a little over 50 bucks... not 100% on the specs of that pump, but if i recall the DC pumps dont have near the same umph as the AC's (hydor and eheim are brands to look at)

well sound is one of the issue, my roomate uses a dell and it's quiet.
i feel bad for him when he tries to sleep and my computer is on.
how is the sound level for the hydor pumps?

Quote: Originally Posted by xwskx well sound is one of the issue, my roomate uses a dell and it's quiet. i feel bad for him when he tries to sleep and my computer is on. how is the sound level for the hydor pumps?

i think i've seen 21db? that sounds about right anywho. almost dead silent. quieter than you buds dell anyway what i would be worried about as far as sound would be the fans on your rad, and a good 120 mm fan at a lower RPM should be very quiet and give you enough CFM to keep the system cool.

I second the DD D4 pump. A dc pump is so much easier to deal with. Also that pump is quite and can perform, much better then my ac pumps.

Quote: Originally Posted by floatingtrem what zenn said, although i beleive you'd get better performance (especially for the price) with an AC pump like the hydor L35, which you can pick up for a little over 50 bucks... not 100% on the specs of that pump, but if i recall the DC pumps dont have near the same umph as the AC's (hydor and eheim are brands to look at)

Hands down smokes the Hydor 35, not to mention the leakage problems associated with the front seal if there is any shear load on the barb.
The DDD-4 Laing is what is in my system and has had ZERO problems and can provide the head nesassary to effectivly cool using a S-TDX and a pair of M-4's N/B and GPU.
Hydor had it's day but HAD is the key word here, IMO of course.

Quote: Originally Posted by ZENNZZO Option #3 with the DD D-4 12vt pump .75" barbs trade out the RBX for a TDX... go .50" these blocks are designed for it. the poly res is a good choice but you can also go a "T" line and fillport. Yes the M-4 GPU block wil fit the 9700 BIX ll or the ThermoChill 120.2 That'd be my pick of components...

"T" Line, thats pretty interesting. i always wondered about that.
So you just add a "T" Fitting in front of the pump to create a fill point and have a continous flow without a reservoir, right? But doesn't the reservoir have some benefit, it should allow the water to cool down somewhat when its just sitting in the reservoir, or does the lack of reservoir increase the flow rate?

Quote: Originally Posted by xwskx "T" Line, thats pretty interesting. i always wondered about that. So you just add a "T" Fitting in front of the pump to create a fill point and have a continous flow without a reservoir, right? But doesn't the reservoir have some benefit, it should allow the water to cool down somewhat when its just sitting in the reservoir, or does the lack of reservoir increase the flow rate?

Neither... basically it is to fill the system and provide a place where the trapped air can escape to.
I have used reservoirs as big as 6 quarts, the only benifit I saw was the increase in distilled H20 sales at the local grocery store...

Once the system reaches equalibrium you are only going to cool as efficient as your systems' parts, and the surounding ambient allows.
Coolant doesn't sit anywhere, when the pump is circulating.
It is in motion passing through the blocks having thermal energy transfered to it, then moving to the radiator where it transfers that to the fins.
At that point the fan blowing ambient temp air, across the fins transfers the thermal energy from the fins out into the ambient.

In a "T" line system, A "T" is installed at the intake side of the pump and a line extends upward, terminating at a plug or filport. When filling the system, coolant will fill the lower portion of the loop. This will prime the pump and start the coolant to circulate. At first there will be a milky look to the coolant , this is disolved air in tiny bubbles and is normal.
You fill the coolant to the top of the "T" line, cap it and let the system run. The air will eventually make it's way to the "T"line and replace the coolant with air.
You will notice the level of coolant dropping untill all the air is out of the loop and only circulating coolant will be in the tubes,block pump and radiator.
It will appear to be idle, but rest assured, if the pump is running, it will be circulating bubble free coolant.

This is the time to do a final check for any coolant leaks, check the block for correct downforce and soundness for the entire system.

Boot and keep a good look at temps. If the temps are in order at idle, load the CPU continuing to monitor my temps. Run the system until there is a stable temp achieved, this is the equalibrium I mentioned earlier, make note of it and the ambient temp. The difference between the two temps is called tDelta or temperature delta. record that and use it as a guide.
If something changes in the system, the tDelta will reflect that.
Use that as a system maintainance tool...

Remember the more components in the loop the greater the number of possible failure points you have to monitor...simple is better, less is more, and sharp 90 degree fittings are taboo...