http://www.c-systems.ca/

Damn swanky pump. Here's a reveiw at SystemCooling.

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Very intersting, it looks nice to...something to show off in you case. :goodfind:

Nice, I haven't got the water setup yet but I should within the next month. I would like to see the comparison with the DD D4 pump. Also it said it consumes 6 watts, and getting the X2 in a series sounds like a good pump.

Great Find AntiM

No way. We need a review. Anti? GK? That thing is munchkin and the review that they link shows a single on par with Hydor L30. I need more info, I do not trust it. If it is real I am getting 2.

I just found what I want for this new project...

I just wanna know if it comes in clear anodize.

As pretty as that pump looks. I think that it will have a very high falure rate due to corrosion. The shaft of the pump will where off the anodized coating and then the metal will start to etch and then the shaft will start to wabble.

thats my 2 cents

Quote: Originally Posted by Tribune As pretty as that pump looks. I think that it will have a very high falure rate due to corrosion. The shaft of the pump will where off the anodized coating and then the metal will start to etch and then the shaft will start to wabble. thats my 2 cents

Have you used/tested/designed this pump? Do you use any watercooling of your own?

hehe, you said "the shaft will start to wabble"

I donÂ’t think aluminum would oxidize like that or fast enough to cause that much corrosion especially if you run a anti-corrosive additive. ItÂ’s not like people are using sea water for coolant.
If you want it clear anodized you could strip the anodizing with oven cleaner or that method about stripping anodizing that they had a guide to a while back.

Yes, I have two water cooling rigs-one is my engineering workstation and the other I use for testing. I have been liquid cooling for several years now. Moreover, I know a little about anodizing while the anodized layer offers some cathotic protection and slows electrolysis it does not eliminate electrolysis. In fact the anodize layer is a sacrificial layer that under goes electrolysis at a retarded rate. Also any imperfection in the anodize coating will etch at the greater rate. With blocks, this is not usually an issue because most people replace there blocks within a year or less. However, most people hang on to there pumps for much longer. Before I invested in this pump setup, I would ask the manufacturer what the expected life of the pump is and get the warrantee info

I'm not slamming the pump, operationally it may be the greatest thing since sliced bread but the material selection for the pump housing is all wrong. It is pretty though

Quote: Originally Posted by DuplexEmotions Have you used/tested/designed this pump? Do you use any watercooling of your own? hehe, you said "the shaft will start to wabble"

Here is a great pic of what can happen with mixed metals even with good anodizing

Quote: Originally Posted by Tribune Before I invested in this pump setup, I would ask the manufacturer what the expected life of the pump is and get the warrantee info I'm not slamming the pump, operationally it may be the greatest thing since sliced bread but the material selection for the pump housing is all wrong. It is pretty though

In the review it says 50,000 hours continuous, but that refers only to the motor I believe, and it carries a 1 year warranty.

And as for the anodizing issue, the maker has addressed this here:
http://forums.procooling.com/vbb/sho...5&page=1&pp=25

Of particular interest is the last post on plans to go with typeIII (hardcoat) anodizing in the future, although this will make it a little less "swanky", as the available dyes are more limited and noteably darker.

I agree that aluminum, even anodized, is not the ideal housing for a pump. I doubt very seriously that the shaft on the impeller is anodized or aluminum. That would be beyond stupid. I also doubt very much you'd be in any serious danger of galvanic corrosion running distilled water and the proper additives. Anodized aluminum is non-conductive, distilled water is non-conductive.

I can think of a couple other areas to nit pick. One, it's an unproven pump. Two, unlike a magnetic pump where the impeller is completely isolated from the motor, a shaft such as this could eventually leak. The advantage of a direct connection to the motor is better head and flow for the size. But I don't see a major problem with either of the areas you're concerned about.

Quote: Originally Posted by AntiM I agree that aluminum, even anodized, is not the ideal housing for a pump. I doubt very seriously that the shaft on the impeller is anodized or aluminum. That would be beyond stupid. I also doubt very much you'd be in any serious danger of galvanic corrosion running distilled water and the proper additives. Anodized aluminum is non-conductive, distilled water is non-conductive. I can think of a couple other areas to nit pick. One, it's an unproven pump. Two, unlike a magnetic pump where the impeller is completely isolated from the motor, a shaft such as this could eventually leak. The advantage of a direct connection to the motor is better head and flow for the size. But I don't see a major problem with either of the areas you're concerned about.

My concern is the bearing for the shaft not the shaft itself. If they use a copper thrust bearing for the shaft then there is a very large possibility that there is scoring where the thrust baring is pressed into the housing. Assuming they use copper that will begin to corrode right away. Unless it sealed off from the fluid chamber. IMO I would really like to see how this pump is put together. In particular how they have sealed the shaft.

lAnonymousl- I think that it will still have some corrosion issues even with type 3 anodizing. I think if the pump performs as well as it is advertised a simple switch over to a plastic fixes the problem