ok i want to set me up a peltier setup, now i have the maze 4 cpu block , so pretty much all i need to buy is the cold plate and the peltier unit right?? so i need these 2? and plus the Neoprene and Dielectric Grease and the other what nots

http://www.dangerden.com/images/Pelts/226_large.jpg
http://www.dangerden.com/images/MAZE4/cold_plate_lg.jpg

plus i was thinking i could use this to power it
http://www.newegg.com/app/ViewProdu...-103-443&depa=1
its got 33A @ the 12V or would i need to get something else

What's your setup going to be for condensation? I see the neoprene and dielectric grease, but what about the base of the socket and back side of the board? If you get the water to less than ambient, you will also need to have a plan to keep moisture from forming on the outside of your tubing.

I'm sure you've already researched all this and have a plan, I'm just curious what it is?

on a few reviews and articles ive looked at , they have used liquid electrical tape to put on the front and back of the board ( http://nexushardware.com/articles/in...&page_number=2 ) but i have'nt gotten around to the tubing yet, any ideas?

If you want to use that PSU as a secondary unit that only powers the pelt, then you must put a hefty load on the 5v side in order for the voltage regulator to, uh well, regulate!

This can be achived by soldering two 10 ohm, 25W resistors in parallel and connecting them to the 5 volt side.

what if i also ran just my fans on the 5v ? ive got 4-5 or so , i know i probley wont need em but to hell with it

Lol, unless they draw an amp each, It would be much easier to just get a resistor or two.

Look! They sell them at Radio Shack: http://www.radioshack.com/product.as...5Fid=271%2D120

ok sorry

Quote: Originally Posted by existz plus i was thinking i could use this to power it http://www.newegg.com/app/ViewProdu...-103-443&depa=1 its got 33A @ the 12V or would i need to get something else

I don't know about that. Check this out:
http://pages.sbcglobal.net/adunlap/psudatasheet.html
You'll notice the specs for the enermax's are all pretty high compared to most other PSU's. If you're looking strictly at the numbers, they're saying, that this 460W PSU supplies an additional max 11A on the 12V rail over an Antec (one of the best PSU suppliers IMHO) 480W even.....and can put out nearly as much as a PC Power & Cooling Turbo-Cool 510 .....which is ridiculous. Enermax is either quite a bit more lax in their ratings than other PSU manufacturers, or the competitors are very modest. Which makes more sense? I would take all these ratings with a grain of salt. I'd look for something more along these lines as a dedicated peltier PSU,
especially if you're getting a 226W one:
http://sidewindercomputers.com/samam32inpsu.html

Tried and true....and it'll get the job done. I'm not saying it wouldn't work, but there are enough things to worry about with TEC cooling without adding a loud popping sound coming from your PSU on top of it. the price might be a bit more, but I think it would be a good investment. Also, check ebay....you can find some really good deals on there.

ah im just gonna go with the Meanwell S320-12powersupply instead, what u all think of?

Regardless of what psu you get, if you want it to last and you want to prevent TEC failure, do the resistor thingy.

Also I wasn't trying to be harsh in my last post, I was quite excited to see radio shack actually carrying something you need.

EDIT: DUDE! Don't waste 90 bux, just get a cheap 450watt and use the load resis.

Also, NEVER! use the same PSU for the pelt as the one powering your comp.

lol, thats fine i did'nt take it that way

so if i get a normal psu, what should i be looking at on them ?? like 20A-up on the 12v line? or what?

Quote: Originally Posted by Hawkeye EDIT: DUDE! Don't waste 90 bux, just get a cheap 450watt and use the load resis.

Keep in mind, if the pelt loses power ........ his proc is cooked. I would get the Meanwell.

Quote: Originally Posted by putwig Keep in mind, if the pelt loses power ........ his proc is cooked. I would get the Meanwell.

I agree, Get the Meanwell. And to seal the board, instead of using liquid electrical tape, which looks like s*it, get a can of spray Conformal Coating. it can be bought at most REAL electronics stores (not Radio Shack) for around $10 a can, you will only need one. Mask off the top of the CPU socket and all other connectors and the northbridge and put a couple good coats on the whole thing,it is clear so it will look as if there is nothing on there. You can fill the inside portion of the CPU socket with epoxy.

Quote: Originally Posted by putwig Keep in mind, if the pelt loses power ........

This is generally why I'd personally stick with a water-chiller solution.

Why would the water in the tubes go below ambient? I thought the water took away the heat from the hot side of the peltier? Do peltier systems have enough capacity left over to cool the northbridge and graphics card? A good radiator must be needed then?
Cheers,

Pete

What system are you attempting to TEC?
What are you using for the base water cooling system. I saw you were talking M-4 CPU block. What is the rest of that cooling sytem.
To me, if you have a cooling system that is efficient enough to cool a peltier to work properly, then you have a cooling system, that is efficient enough to cool a CPU, Northbridge and GPU without the hassles of condensation, and the O/C's you'll see won't be much different.
If sub zero cooling is what you're after, then go Phasechange...If a higher O/C is what you're after then just use the kind of H20 system that it will take to run the peltier efficiently. Save the headache of failed Power supplies. condensation and cost for a "possible" increase in clocks.

So a peltier isn't a guaranteed means of getting a higher oc?
Hmm but its COOLER

Pete

Quote: Originally Posted by SYNERGY Why would the water in the tubes go below ambient? I thought the water took away the heat from the hot side of the peltier? Do peltier systems have enough capacity left over to cool the northbridge and graphics card? A good radiator must be needed then? Cheers, Pete

This is not an insult, but you seem to be lacking some pelt fundamentals. I would highly recommend taking some more time and read every artcle you can find on the subject because what you are undertaking has the potential to fry your goods like sunday morning breakfast. As for the question above, the best bet would be a chilled water loop like the one reviewed here.

Quote: Originally Posted by LUNAMODS ...And to seal the board,...a can of spray Conformal Coating....Mask off the top of the CPU socket and all other connectors and the northbridge and put a couple good coats on the whole thing,it is clear so it will look as if there is nothing on there. You can fill the inside portion of the CPU socket with epoxy.

Hey this sounds interesting. I have never heard of this before. It basically wraps my board in plastic? Can you PM me with more info on the ins and outs and any other advice on it?

Quote: Originally Posted by SYNERGY So a peltier isn't a guaranteed means of getting a higher oc? Hmm but its COOLER Pete

Oh yeah, it's "cooler" but the added risks need to be balanced with the coolness factor.
I for one, am a subscriber to "coolness" and there is nothing that can gaurentee a higher O/C, other than giving it a go, and getting just that.
Dollar for dollar there are cooler things to spend your money on...however, your money. your call.

Here's a great guide on pelts: http://www.gideontech.com/guides/peltier/

You'll need to know the specified wattage of your proc to use the formulae givin in the guide:
http://processorfinder.intel.com/scr...ALL&CorSpd=ALL
http://www.amd.com/us-en/Processors/...82_739,00.html

A water chiller applies the peltier to either your reservior or rad. to help lower the temps below what the rad alone can do. There are two big benefits.....

1. No worries about if the pelt dies
2. No worries about condensation.

Most of the waterchillers I've seen only employ air cooling to the pelt.