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| Extreme Cooling Peltiers,N2,Water...You name it... |
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| Sir Knight of Spamalot | A while back I completed my computer and ive been running ir fine ever sense. I noticed that when I do overclock, it tends to heat up rather quickly. I overclock to 2.310Ghz (real) at 200 or 220 FSB. And I ve noticed that the cpu's been running hot. around..55C on idle..and can reach beyond 62C under load. I really need to lower my temps to atleast 40c or lower. I was thinking of using watercooling. Ive began desiging a waterblock for the cpu. AndWhat is the most efficant design? isa it a maze or something? or can I have like fins poping up from a milled down peice of copper? I was thinking of making everything myself, excpet the pump. I seen a nice pump at petsmart for $15 that moves 75GPH. The radatior however..I dont know..I was thinking of desiging my own by wrapping copper tubing with AL fins (from the kitchen or use a heatsink). I dont know if my dad can get me one from an oldcar..but that maybe too big.. or maybe not |
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| | #2 (permalink) |
| Lokie's Personal WU-Hoe Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: WI
Posts: 1,906
![]() ![]() ![]() | Now I'm going to be cut and dry here, lowering your temps will not be done with some ghetto pump that's pushing a fraction of what you need and a radiator that has poor heat transfer compared to a heater core/rad that is actually needed. Designing your own waterblock wouldn't be a bad idea, however if you don't even know what designs are efficient then don't even try right now. Look around at what companies are selling, and what the best blocks currently are. If you seriously want to watercool your system, just browse through the Extreme Cooling section of this forum. Practically ALL your questions are answered there, and then some. Suggestions don't even need to be made right now for what components you need because they've been made countless times. Read and search before you ask, you'll save yourself and everyone else some time. If all this gets too expensive, there's always a luxurious air cooled heatsink waiting for your processor. For these suggestions, look in the Air Cooling section of this forum. |
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| The Who? Hoe Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: If only I knew...
Posts: 2,299
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() | Another one of these threads.... What kind of tools and equipment do you have access to? My guess is not much since you're only 16... The design of your waterblock and its effiency depends just as much on the rest of the parts in your system. That radiator you're talking about will give you ****ty temps regardless if you cool with water unless you use ALOT of copper tubing. That pump is garbage unless you specifically design a system for low flowrates. From the sound of it you're planning on using a hand drill and/or dremel to do this. Don't waste your time. You'll end up with alot of grief and aggravation (not to mention one fuggly waterblock) for sub-par cooling. I would suggest you just find a decent air-cooling solution in your price range and call it a day. If by some off chance you DO have acess to a CNC mill or similar equipment you would still need to do alot of research on your own beforehand. I'd say a nice bench drill is about the bare minimum you'd need for any kind of discernable block design.
__________________ I've got an idea, an idea so smart that my head would explode if I even began to know what I'm talking about. --Peter Griffin-- Last edited by lAnonymousl; 16-April-04 at 11:01 PM. |
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| Smooth Operator | http://www.overclockers.com/tips1085/index04.asp just a little ghetto something on copper tubing passive radiator.
__________________ I'm the trouble starter, punkin' instigator. |
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| | #5 (permalink) |
| The Who? Hoe Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: If only I knew...
Posts: 2,299
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() | You want ghetto? http://www.overclockers.com/tips128/ That's probably how yours will turn out from the sound of it, if not worse.
__________________ I've got an idea, an idea so smart that my head would explode if I even began to know what I'm talking about. --Peter Griffin-- |
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| Smooth Operator |
Dude - that is somethin' that makes people from the ghetto say "That's ghetto". Lemme rephrase - I think the "African queen" project is ghettofabulous.
__________________ I'm the trouble starter, punkin' instigator. | |||||||||||||||||||||||
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| Apex Tech God | Im think about water cooling at the moment to hush my rig. The sound of even 5 fans makes my head spin. From what ive seen, and what I see as the best block design is simple: - Block of copper, fairplay thick, contact with CPU. -Shroud contain the water flow area has an inlet and an outlet. This way a constant suplly of cool fresh water is always being supplied, without goin round some stupid maze, and doesnt slow the flow rate down. -goes back to rad, res, pump and away we go again. I guess to increase the surface area, much like a heatsink you could have small grooved fins inside the shroud, and even on the outside: ![]() see?i even took the liberty of drawing one for you. even painted the backgorund yellow. I see this as an effective block. You would need decent piping for a good flow though - see Digitalworlds Gallery for appropriate pipe size
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| Apex Master Tech Apprentice Join Date: Dec 2003
Posts: 277
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haha i like how his final temps are higher than his air-cooled setup. nice copper tho' dave suggests window shopping here: http://www.xoxide.com/watcoolcas1.html
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| | #9 (permalink) |
| H2-Hoe Join Date: Jul 2002 Location: Sierra Vista, AZ.
Posts: 3,339
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() | Nerdz, the guys are mostly right on this one, even if they sound a little overly down on your ideas. Without getting into the whole thing, you need to understand that flow rates for pumps are not the most important specification. "Head" is much more important when determining the basic suitability of pumps for water cooling. "Head" is the measurement of how high the pump is able to push water in a verticle column. In other words, not how fast, but how strong it works against resistance. Now 75 GPH isn't all that bad a flow rate, but that measurement will be a "static" measurement of the mximum the pump can do against no resistance at all. You concept of a copper tube radiator has been done, and it can work fine, but if it's going to be passive, then it will need to be about 6 feet in length, and that is going to add a lot of resistance and will require a pump with a good head rating. You could get away with a lot less copper if you add your fins and fans. But again, unless the copper is cheap, it's going to cost you as much as an old heater core and the heater core will work better. It isn't what your wanting to do that's not well thought out. It's just a few of the angles in how you plan to accomplish it that has some of the guys making alternate suggestions. And there is a great amount of info in the forums, I will be glad to help with specific questions as will several of the others. Good luck, yell back right here if you want, I love recorded history, it keeps me on track when alot is going on. __________________________________________________ ______________
__________________ Life is hard. It's harder if your stupid ! Give them enough rope and they'll hang themselves. Give'em a little more and they'll hang us all ! |
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| | #10 (permalink) |
| H2-Hoe Join Date: Jul 2002 Location: Sierra Vista, AZ.
Posts: 3,339
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() | Nev_payne, as for you, it's easy to see that you have been doing some reading. Nothing wrong with your concepts as long as you can get everything done, and in a balanced effective way. __________________________________________________ ______________ Dave, I am not so fond of Xoxide, their selection is too limited for my tastes. I prefer to stick with the big guns in this part of the industry, Swiftech, DangerDen, Innovatek, and an up and coming favorite looks to be Zalman, and someone we will be seeing more of soon, Frigus Engineerings' "Intimidator" series of water blocks. Other companies have entered this market on the idea that they could produce components that were effective, reliable, and inexpensive. The problem is that the moment they finally reach effective and reliable, they forget all about inexpensive. I'll be watching these guys, I like the idea of $35 - $40 water blocks that work decent and are well built. __________________________________________________ _______________ Intimidator Water Block review Oh, and in the future guys, do us all a favor and start your own topic so your not highjacking someone elses, it's easier on us all
__________________ Life is hard. It's harder if your stupid ! Give them enough rope and they'll hang themselves. Give'em a little more and they'll hang us all ! |
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| Sir Knight of Spamalot | thnx nev_payne for the idea. I was thinking of doing it somewhat like that except carving the copper out and leaving groves all around. And I have access to a drill press, dremel, uh recporcating saw, hack saw, and the drill press in capable of milling, cept we dont have the vice to hold the pieces in place. but I do have a machine tool shop in my school. I have a couple freinds in there that could do it for me if I give them the plans and copper base. and heres the pumps at petsmart http://www.petsmart.com/global/produ...=1082145319735 they have a 500GPH model to and a 250 and Ive been thinking about the radatior design a bit. A coil of copper tubing, but at each end there would be fans. They would blow into the inner portion of the coil to cool it off so that I would have cool water coming out. One fan would blow in, and the other would blow out. I do have a couple 80mm fans lying around and I recently found some 120mm and 90mm for like 99cents each. My waterblock design wouldnt be to complicated,but would be good enough for decent cooling. andI was thinking also for the pump, a windsheild washer pump. |
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| Apex Master Tech Join Date: Oct 2003 Location: Portland Oregon
Posts: 498
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If you are going to build your own stuff and use pumps that arn't the norm, then you really need to watch out for a little thing called "duty cycle" (this mainly applies to the pumps) A windshield washer pump was designed to run at or below a 6% duty cycle, in english that is running for less than 6 min/hour. I don't know about you, but I tend to run my computer for more than 6 min an hour. There are some really cool benefits for doing it all yourself, but you will get burned if you don't do your research!!!! As for a block design, take a look at procooling. There are lots of DIY blocks there, if you can get past all the bashing that goes on there, then you should be able to find something that you can make with the tools you have. Good luck.....
__________________ Danger Den = Maximum Cooling... for Maximum Performance... | |||||||||||||||||||||||
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| Lokie's Personal WU-Hoe Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: WI
Posts: 1,906
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For the better of your watercooling experience, going with a sub $20 heater core and using your $1 fans on it would be a huge improvement over copper tubing. This will save time, space, and money due to the high surface area a heater core has. The thin tubes in a heatercore transfer a whole lot more than those huge 1/2" or 3/8" tubes you would use. Many awesome heatercores have been recommended in the Extreme Cooling section here, just search for "heatercore". Recommended by Zenn, if you want a PetSmart pump than you better shop smart and go with a Danner Mag pump found |_h_e_r_e_|. My suggestion would be the 350gph one if you're going to be running a normal sized setup. For a good pump comparision, read over THIS article. For a review of the Mag 3, click HERE. If my vision serves me correctly, there weren't any windshield washer pumps reviewed...hopefully that tells you something. Good luck designing the waterblock, it appears that you have a good array of tools necessary to do so. Use them correctly, and remember the quote at the top of your screen . | |||||||||||||||||||
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| | #14 (permalink) |
| The Who? Hoe Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: If only I knew...
Posts: 2,299
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() | In that case I would suggest either a design like that Intimidator block that Ic linked to (channel design), a simple maze (both probably not very possible with a drill press), or (and probably your best bet)....a #rotor style waterblock: http://www.madshrimps.be/?action=gethowto&howtoID=34 Check it out....simple, cheap, effective, and right in your "equipment range" with blueprints already included. What more could you want?
__________________ I've got an idea, an idea so smart that my head would explode if I even began to know what I'm talking about. --Peter Griffin-- |
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| Sir Knight of Spamalot | hmm I was thinking of the radiator lately..and I was wondering..if I did do a ghetto radatior and put a pelt on each end to cool off the water would it work? or if I got a radatior and put a pel on it to cool it off, would it cool off the water? OR If I got a pelt or 2 and put them in the water reservoir to cool the water off, then I wouldnt need a radatior. I would have sufficant current to supply them..I just need to make room. I already made the reservoir and it came out pretty good. but as a temp solution I recenlty bought a thermal Take slim volcano 10+ that was all copper..it works pretty good and allows me to OC w/o worrying about temps. I still want to get lower though
__________________ I still fold "No amount of Experimentation can Prove Me right, It only takes one to prove me Wrong"-Albert Einstein |
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| | #17 (permalink) |
| Lokie's Personal WU-Hoe Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: WI
Posts: 1,906
![]() ![]() ![]() | Going ahead and throwing peltiers all over is the same as throwing just as much heat as cold those pelts produce around. Pelts get hot on one side, cold on the other...so you need to cool the other side, which just puts you back in a continuous circle. Last time I'll say it...just go with some heatercores, they're low priced and are probably the best radiator solutions out there. Buy 2, 3 or even 5 if you want, just go with a heatercore solution. Large copper tubes will get you no where if you want efficiency. |
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