IÂ’ve been sitting on this way to long. SheÂ’s finally ready.
Some of you may know that for some time IÂ’ve been trying to setup my first water-cooled PC. IÂ’ve been hunting around the net trying to find the best gear for my setup. I am only water-cooling the processor. IÂ’ve asked a few questions about water-cooling before but this is my actual setup list. IÂ’m trying to get the best of the best eventually aiming at a Very Good water-cooled setup, without spending a crazy amount about 350 is my budget, but IÂ’m willing to wiggle (a lot).
I’m trying to cool a 755 socket processor Quad core which I intend to over clock as far as I possibly can (possibly not right away but eventually). Tube size I think I’m going with is ½” because it seems the size that the components I’m looking at use.
Motherboard is going to be an Asus Striker Extreme. (Just ordered it 8/8/07)
My case is a Silverstone Temjin TJ09 (black)
Nothing is set in stone except the case, motherboard, and quad core processor (donÂ’t know which one but its gunna have 4 cores)
Here is the list of parts IÂ’m looking at.
Water block CPU Swiftech Apogee GTX Extreme Performance Universal CPU Waterblock I was also looking at the Innovatek G-Flow CPU Cooler Water Block – but it doesn’t look like it’s made out of copper so I was thinking it’s not going to transfer the heat to well not to mention its twice the price (I do here awesome things about Innovatek though)
Pump Swiftech MCP655 I also looked at the Hydor SELTZ L 45 II but IÂ’m not sure about the brand which has crazy 3x the flow. IÂ’m a little worried about their being too much pressure but I know little to jack about water-cooling.
Radiator Swiftech MCR320 "Quiet Power" Triple 120mm Radiator - Black IÂ’m not sure if this thing is overkill (donÂ’t think thereÂ’s such a thing) or if there are some that are way better. I intend to mount it on the back of the case using the Radbox. If I get something different IÂ’ll still mount it on the back with standoffs probably. I have more questions about mounting this after listing the parts IÂ’m looking at.
Reservoir I was originally looking at the Thermaltake AquaBay M1 2U 5.25" Dual Reservoir / Flow Meter but after the read about “baffle forcing the turbulent flow” on some of the guides I’ve seen, I began looking at the Swiftech MCRES-MICRO Small Form Factor / High-Flow Reservoir which seems to address that issue. I hate to say I actually like it better as I can attach a fill port to the top (I think) as well as it all ready has my fittings (1/2”). If there is no turbulent flow issue with the AquaBay as well as a way to adapt it for ½” I like its drive bay easily viewable level indication and flow gauge, I’d just T in the fill port if I got it. I most recently discovered the Danger Den 2x 5-1/4” bay reservoir, im thinking this ones the one I’m going to get.
Tubing IÂ’m looking at PrimoFlex 1/2" ID PVC Clear Tubing but please let me know the best for the job IÂ’m really concerned about aging. I do intend to use some Horizon Blue UV Reactive CoolSleeve for 1/2" ID Tubing or something similar so donÂ’t worry about kinking. IÂ’m looking for clear tubing. Just assume go to home Depot if that works just as well.
Clamps not sure whatÂ’s best IÂ’m thinking Stainless Steel Hose Clamp for 1/2" OD to 5/8" OD Tubing are the best (and you can get them at home depot for about 98 cense) but there are so many options I just donÂ’t know check it out and let me know what you think I have even seen just zip ties but that seems risky to me. I would like to use Plastic Tube Clamps the most but IÂ’m not sure about their ability to secure my lines.
Fans IÂ’m looking at putting 7 120mm fans in this bad boy. I have 2 Silverstone 120 which came in the case but IÂ’d like to replace them with Blue Led Fans. Eventually everything is going to be Blue with the exception of the water which is going to be Red. I do like the look of the AC RyanÂ’s Blackfire4 but not sure the quality.
Coolant Lastly the coolant, I’m not sure what to go with. I am going to initially run straight H20 though my system (yes distilled). I think I should eventually run a nonconductive fluid designed for cooling, I was looking at Fluid XP Blood Red I want the fluid to be red. Red black and blue is my color scheme. I am a little worried about some of the components; I’ve seen a few “Warranty only valid if use our coolant.”
I know master P has given me some help but this is the big list, if thereÂ’s a part thatÂ’s the best then let me know. Keep in mind I am aiming at a very good water cooling setup.

Below are 3 CAD drawings I did to show you the layout I'm aiming for, Option A and B are shown because i don't know the pump layout flow I'm going with (thats where you guys come it) Feel free to throw some comments my way.

I'm also thinking of etching the Rammstein logo in the front of the res. ( im also thinking a Rammstein logo res would be sweet so that will be my first mod)

Thanks.
Anthony

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The Swiftech stuff is great.

I just have one question about the loop, why are the access holes for the tubing to get to the rad so low? Why not just have them come out of the case near the top. It would shorten the loops andlook better.

Their existing holes.
Picture of back. It would be easy to add top holes without the PSU but the existing wholes are so nice. Kind of makes me wonder why Silverstone put them their.

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The tubing holes are kinda aimed at a single fan rad.
Flip the triple fan radiator perhaps?


I'm with DN on the swiftech gear - bloody good stuff!
As far as pump goes, pressure isn't an issue as the water is peing pushed in a loop - once the system is bled, there shouldn't be any large pressure buildup unless there's a blockage.

The MCRES would be a better option as the thermaltake stuff is more designed for 1/4" tubing and their converter barbs are rather restrictive.

Primoflex is all good - Tygon is better, but way more pricy (and heck, it's only tubing - easily replaceable is good rather than trying to clean the stuff... trust me on that one!) You shouldn't have aging issues as the system will need maintennance well before the tubing could die on you.

I'm a fan of stainless clamps myself - but all my components have metal barbs - be careful on plastic barbs with the clamps as they have the ability to crush them. (in a good system, the hose/barb seal should be good enough without a clamp - the clamps should only there for added security)

If you are going to go for fluidXP, DO NOT run water through your system first - I had a chat with one of the guys at fluidXP after my system became overgrown with algae after 3 months (with an ~3 year maintennance free claim, this p!ssed me off something chronic!!)
Apparently, for best results the components need to be totally dry. the only algal issues that they had encountered were when people upgraded from water to fluidXP or the people had used second hand parts - with new components, there were no issues reported.

If you do run water first - be sure to use an additive like zerex and a good algaecide, then when it's time to change, first flush it out with something like listerine to sterilize it and thouroughly dry it all out (time consuming)

Quote: Originally Posted by MasterP The tubing holes are kinda aimed at a single fan rad. Flip the triple fan radiator perhaps? I'm with DN on the swiftech gear - bloody good stuff! As far as pump goes, pressure isn't an issue as the water is peing pushed in a loop - once the system is bled, there shouldn't be any large pressure buildup unless there's a blockage. The MCRES would be a better option as the thermaltake stuff is more designed for 1/4" tubing and their converter barbs are rather restrictive. Primoflex is all good - Tygon is better, but way more pricy (and heck, it's only tubing - easily replaceable is good rather than trying to clean the stuff... trust me on that one!) You shouldn't have aging issues as the system will need maintennance well before the tubing could die on you. I'm a fan of stainless clamps myself - but all my components have metal barbs - be careful on plastic barbs with the clamps as they have the ability to crush them. (in a good system, the hose/barb seal should be good enough without a clamp - the clamps should only there for added security) If you are going to go for fluidXP, DO NOT run water through your system first - I had a chat with one of the guys at fluidXP after my system became overgrown with algae after 3 months (with an ~3 year maintennance free claim, this p!ssed me off something chronic!!) Apparently, for best results the components need to be totally dry. the only algal issues that they had encountered were when people upgraded from water to fluidXP or the people had used second hand parts - with new components, there were no issues reported. If you do run water first - be sure to use an additive like zerex and a good algaecide, then when it's time to change, first flush it out with something like listerine to sterilize it and thouroughly dry it all out (time consuming)

Thanks for the tip on the algae growth i was actualy talking about like 3 days of H2O (for leak testing) then to fluid but I may have changed my mind and screwed myself over. Ya overtightning the still clamps was one of the first things i though of, some kid was complaining about a res he bough on a site that it had easly crackable fittings (the whole res was from a mold) Im not worried my entire setup will have metal fittings.
Flipping the Radiator is one option i was thinking about but Swiftech site says it was best mounted with the ports on the top to stop air entrapment.

Quote: Originally Posted by Spatha Their existing holes. Picture of back. It would be easy to add top holes without the PSU but the existing wholes are so nice. Kind of makes me wonder why Silverstone put them their.

Is it me or is that case BTX?

Quote: Originally Posted by killert Is it me or is that case BTX?

Sorry I'm not familar with that term.

Quote: Originally Posted by killert Is it me or is that case BTX?

Probably not standard BTX, more inverted ATX like the Lian Li PC1000/2000 series cases.

The holes that Silverstone put in are nice, but aren't in the best position for your setup. Swiftech is right, the rad should always be setup with the barbs to the top. So I would drill new holes for your setup.

MasterP is right on the Thermaltake stuff. All the Swiftech stuff will have high flow rates because they are not that constrictive. Putting something from Thermaltake (or Alphacool, Aqua Computing, and Koolance) in there will just choke things.

If you are going to use PrimoFlex, get some of the Swiftech anti-kink things that I can't remember the name of. They are the plastic "srpings" you wrap on the outside of the tubing. I have found that Primoflex has a tendency to "collapse" on tight curves after time (3-6 months). Putting these on the tubing prevents that, and they even look kinda cool. I have always used either ClearFlex or PrimoFlex tubing 'cause I never wanted to pay for the Tygon, and it is extra thick.

Quote: Originally Posted by DickNervous Probably not standard BTX, more inverted ATX like the Lian Li PC1000/2000 series cases. The holes that Silverstone put in are nice, but aren't in the best position for your setup. Swiftech is right, the rad should always be setup with the barbs to the top. So I would drill new holes for your setup. MasterP is right on the Thermaltake stuff. All the Swiftech stuff will have high flow rates because they are not that constrictive. Putting something from Thermaltake (or Alphacool, Aqua Computing, and Koolance) in there will just choke things. If you are going to use PrimoFlex, get some of the Swiftech anti-kink things that I can't remember the name of. They are the plastic "srpings" you wrap on the outside of the tubing. I have found that Primoflex has a tendency to "collapse" on tight curves after time (3-6 months). Putting these on the tubing prevents that, and they even look kinda cool. I have always used either ClearFlex or PrimoFlex tubing 'cause I never wanted to pay for the Tygon, and it is extra thick.

Another trick is the hose clamps on the corners, for tight curves in primoflex a hose clamp o two on the corners of the turn (where it kinks) will solve it, and if coloerful clamps looks better that the spring coated tubing IMO.

Ironically I was setting up a similar setup (simalar being the GTX and MCR320) for my new quad (simalar again although it will be a E6600 at first, it will be upgraded to quad one day, and with the striker extreme.

I'm looking at different watercblocks, EK has some nice ones, but i like the NexXus XP block alot too, still in decison was working on a thread, just haven't posted.

Ya the motherboards the case supports are SSI, Extended ATX, ATX, Micro ATX according to silverstones site (I did so research on BTX)

Quote: If you are going to use PrimoFlex, get some of the Swiftech anti-kink things that I can't remember the name of.

Ya Im going to get my hands on some

Quote: Horizon Blue UV Reactive CoolSleeve for 1/2" ID Tubing or something similar

One reason why I showed option C and D was I am worried about the radiator being placed too high in the water loop. If I used one of the high ones wouldn't that make the water go back up the T line instead of into the rad. Gravity dose incovienent things like that.

Quote: Ironically I was setting up a similar setup

Ya I just saw that not to long ago I looked at your rez a while back but decided agianst it because I've seen to many people crack the res by over tightening the fittings thats why I'm going with all metal fittings. So be careful of that. But hay for $8 bucks thats a great res.