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| Apex Master Tech | Ok. We have a radiator here that doesnÂ’t seem to want to work right. Each time, there is always a small, steady, leak from the left barb. At first we thought that it was the plastic (right angle) barb we used, so we drained it and used an steal Danger Den straight barb. Still having the same problemÂ… Any idea on what could be wrong? | |
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Mind you - be careful with teflon tape and acrylic reservoirs. Too much tape can lead to cracked threads and more leakage ![]() I'm a fan of epoxying the barbs to the acrylic myself - more permanent, but no leaks!! can you confirm that the leak's coming from the threaded part of the barb or the tubing - the clamp may be pinching or cutting the tube perhaps EDIT: whoops - I read Radiator as Reservoir ![]() Last edited by MasterP; 14-May-07 at 02:20 AM.. | |||||||||||||||||||||||||
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| | #5 (permalink) | |
| Here is the most recomended sealent for semi permanent applications . Its approved for use in almost any application/material except for some acids and high corrosives Product Group Details | ||
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| | #6 (permalink) | |
| Apex Master Tech | It was a new rad from DD... It had both an O-Ring and some plumbers tape being used. The night I posted this thread, I re-drained the system and reinstalled the barb. Same problem again. Strange since its the only one of the two rads having the problem... After having the problem the third time I took a closer look at the actual tubing and saw that since the barb led off to an right angle bend, some of the water was being forced back through the clap i had installed to secure the tubing around the barb. Long story short, I re-drained the system for the forth time and increased the distance between the barb and the right angle by about 3/4 of an inch and it fixed the problem. I guess its just one of those thing with WC that you learn as you go. Thanks for all the suggestions guys. | |
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| | #7 (permalink) | |
| Well I'm glad you got it straightened out. Just to let you know, you never use plumbers tape with barbs with an O-ring. The barbs with an O-ring are straight threaded (parallel) while barbs with tape are tapered. When the tapered thread is screwed in it gets tighter and tighter until the tape make a complete seal, where as th gap in the threads on a straight thread are equal at all times and positions. Usually you can tell by looking at the barb to see if it's tapered or not but in case you can't, you can see which threads are which here: Pipe Threads for Tubes and Fittings where Pressuretight joints are made on the Threads - BS 21 | ||
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| | #8 (permalink) | ||||||||||||||||||||||||
Epoxy....hmmm, thats a good idea. I used silicon (window and door - clear) but it always sprung a leak, in turn i just got a dual pay res from primo chill. Even though it took three of them from vouyearmods, the last one is still kicking till today. I'll have to think about fixing up the old two ones. I know i have this uber-glue that they gave us for holes in the vinly flooring it was like a rock after it dried and it still was slightly flexaable... Thanks masterP, i have work to do now. | |||||||||||||||||||||||||
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