This is part two in my occasional series on tools for modding. This time IÂ’m covering metalworking hand tools.

Part one can be seen here.


Goggles / Safety Glasses
I’ll put this first so you are more likely to read it: whenever you are doing any sort of metalwork, goggles or safety glasses with side “wings” are a must to protect your eyes. If they get dusty, clean them, if they get a significant number of scratches, replace them.

Tin Snips
Used for cutting thin and/or soft sheet metal. Typically 10 inches long, theyÂ’re effectively a very heavy-duty pair of scissors. Not really worth investing in when Aviation Snips are so much better.
Top Tip: Buy Aviation Snips instead.
Cost: from 7GBP (10USD).

Aviation Snips

Same use as Tin Snips, however these have a compound action, so the extra leverage means the cutting process requires much less force on your part. Typically, manufacturers claim this tool can cut mild steel up to 1.2mm thick, non-anodised aluminium up to 1.5mm, and stainless steel up to 0.8mm. In practice these figures are totally unrealistic, unless youÂ’re a mountain gorilla. In more general terms, you can expect to be able to cut the sort of material the cheaper/lighter metal PC cases are made of, but you can forget about cutting up an Antec or Lian-Li.
Top Tip: to minimise distortion caused by cutting, never allow the cut to continue to the end of the blades, instead make a series of small cuts using the middle of the blades.
Cost: from 10GBP (15USD)
Example: Item # 1187 @ http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.c...1/tools-1.html

Hand Nibbler

The main problem with Tin/Aviation snips is the way they distort the metal around the cut. Nibblers cause much less of a problem, as they grip the material as youÂ’re cutting. Due to the way they work, they cut out a strip around 3mm wide.
Top Tip: as the jaws of the nibbler will tend to mark the metal (especially if youÂ’re cutting a curve), mark & cut the side that wonÂ’t be seen.
Cost: from 10GBP (15USD)

Riveter

IÂ’m always complaining about how not enough people paint the inside of their case Â… as proper painting is going to involve drilling the rivets out to dismantle the case, you need something to put new ones in with.
Top Tip: when the rivet grips the case & the shank snaps off, itÂ’s common for the riveter to slam back into the case, damaging your shiny new paintwork. An old mousemat with a small hole cut in it is ideal to protect your paint.
Cost: from 10GBP (15USD)
Example: Item # 5556 @ http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.c...1/tools-1.html

Needle Files

These are the tiniest of files, used for very delicate work. Because they have very fine teeth, the going can be quite slow, but this also means you wonÂ’t have to do much sanding afterwards.
Top Tip: as this sort of file generally doesn’t come with handles, you can make your own with a bit of dowelling or duct tape – this prevents the end of the tang drilling a hole in your palm. Don’t be tempted to use these in your Dremel – they do fit, but the consequences can require a change of underwear … I may tell you more about that sometime.
Cost: from 2GBP (3USD) for a set of 8 of various shapes.
Example: http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/...11991&ts=41909

Warding Files

Basically the same as needle files, but with handles. Expect to pay twice as much for a set of half as many.
Example: http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/...11864&ts=42132

Second Cut / Medium Grade Metalworking Files

These files come in a variety of forms: square, flat; flat with one curved faced, triangular and round (aka “rat tail”). The ones I tend to use most are the flat/curved and rat tail varieties. You used to have to buy the file and handle separately, then bang the handle onto the tang of the file, now they seem to have plastic handles already moulded on.
Top Tip: clean the teeth periodically with a suede brush.
Cost: around 3GBP (5USD) each
Example: http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/...16090&ts=42132

First Cut / Coarse Grade Metalworking Files
My set has ugly orange plastic handles moulded on, and have very prominent teeth. Their aggressive action makes them ideal for quickly tidying up a wonky cut (not that I ever make any ) or shaping curves. These come in the usual shapes: square, flat, curved, triangular and round (rat tail).
Cost: from 6GBP (9USD) for a set of five.

Centrepunch

An absolute essential if you’re going to be drilling holes in anything – without giving the drill bit a bit of a hint as to where it’s supposed to start, it’ll wander & leave nice little spirals in the material, and foul up your measurements.
The automatic version looks a like a stubby version of an automatic pencil, standard ones look a bit like a big nail (which is another option, come to think of it).
Cost: from 6GBP (9USD) for a set; from 10GBP (15USD) (automatic)
Example: http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/...14390&ts=41502

Clamps
Essential for holding down whatever chunk of metal youÂ’re working on. Without clamps, a lot of the effort you put into the work (especially when filing) is going to be lost when the item moves around the bench. The consequences _when_ (not if) you slip can be pretty ugly too.
Sprung clamps are inadequate; get ones with a thread action.
Top Tip: oil the threads occasionally to stop them seizing up.
Cost: from 5GBP (7USD)


Next time IÂ’ll be covering tools for wiring.

Yep, I know that's all a bit early for Saturday's post - but it's "tomorrow" here already - it's my Gran's 80th birthday party in 13 hours time & I have a lot of work to do .. I'm posting now in case I don't get the chance later

Jonny, I see a potential battle over which file to use . Very good information and hopefully will help some hoes out.