Finally got my dremel, I have the case of my old gateway on the work bench now. I am doing a simple window for practice. So far i have done pretty good. Except for the two shattered Cut off wheels

If youre using the reinforced wheels, try backing it with one of the smaller,thinner cutting disks for extra strength.

i am usin reinforced i will try that.. thanks

Don't forget to put masking tape were you are cutting to help get smoother edges, and wear safety google and painters masks...because those metal shavings go flying everywhere. SAFETY GOOGLE or even sunglasses...protect those eyes

EDIT: Um, make that safety goggles - can you tell what my favorite search engine is

Quote: Originally posted by G Money Don't forget to put masking tape were you are cutting to help get smoother edges, and wear safety google and painters masks...because those metal shavings go flying everywhere. SAFETY GOOGLE or even sunglasses...protect those eyes

THE BEST ADVISE ONE PIMP CAN GIVE TO ANOTHER WHEN USING A DREMEL!

i did put tape, and put safety googles over my glasses . The first shatter encouraged me to wear them

its so much fun cuttin **** up

well i did my window slightly different, I rounded the edges with sandpaper

Whenever it cools down around here i will be doing the same.

So far all ive done was use that cool little bit to cut/grind off the gateway logo on this old gateway tower...and it was so much fun

i love cuttin up the gateway.. it is much fun. and i tried using two cut off wheels, its working great and i like the cuts better

I finsihed the cutting. Now i need to file down the edges and put some plexi glass in. Its a very simple cut but its cool looking, Next up...painting...then trying to do a turbine fan on the front. If anyone knows where i can find a tutorial on how to do that would be great

also i will have pics soon... no digital camera

If you have a steel case, cut at night and turn off the lights for some fireworks.

I would also recommend putting some type of eyewear on. A friend of mine caught part of a broken wheel right in the eye. Luckily it didn't penetrate the cornea...but needless to say he was not a happy camper. Sincec then I either wear swimming goggles or some really pimp 80's sunglasses. Might just have to post a pic to show off all my pimposity.

Courtesy of Mnpctechguy:

MnpctechÂ’s 120mm Turbine fan mod
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TOOLS:
Dremel w/reinforced discs
Files

SUPPLIES:
Bondo body filler (tube)
600 grit sandpaper (800 & 1500 for finishing Bondo)
Rustoleum sandable primer
Epoxy glue
3M Heavy duty adhesive tape
Panaflo 1A 120mm fan
120mm metal mesh filter
R/C Plane prop nose 1 3/4"
PVC Closet flange 4"x3" found at Home Depot Plumbing dept. "Closet flange"

STEPS:
Cut off the steel mounting ring around the Closet flange PVC duct. The duct is 4" diameter and 3" long. (great for 120mm fan) Theres 3 notchs near the duct's lip you must file down. This is to allow the duct to slide into the 120mm case hole. File down the inside edge of the duct's outter lip so the duct sits more flush on the faceplate. PVC plastic files down quickly. Take your time and be careful you dont make the lip uneven.

Dremel out the 120mm hole into faceplate and chassis.

Slide the 3” diameter PVC into the faceplate, "does it fit?" May have to file down your hole a bit. Use the "rounded on one side" file for this. Once it fits, apply the EPOXY around the inside edge of the PVC and allow it to dry 24hrs.

Now the time consuming part,

Ideally, a flat faceplate is better because our PVC lip will sit flush. My case faceplate bulged from the center portion. Whether yours bulges or not, use BONDO body filler around the PVC lip to mold it into the face. This will give it a factory molded finish. The best tool to apply the Bondo for this job is your fingers. You can get the Bondo into the lip's crevice easier. I applied 5 coats of Bondo over 2 days. Bondo recommeds you wait 20 mins before sanding. I don't, Id wait at least 4-5hrs before sanding. Other wise it crumbles off if not fully dried. After each Bondo re-application has dried, I sand it with 800 grit sandpaper and reapply Bondo again until its equally distributed around the lip. Take your time, make it look good!

Now sand your fan's face and blades with 600 grit sandpaper. You want paint to stick.

Use the 3M adhesive to fasten the fan onto the duct edge inside the case. I chose to attach it now for painting and re-apply it again after re-installing the faceplate. This was so I wasnt lugging the chassis around as I worked on the fan.

3M HD adhesive..Strong stuff, but removable too!

Use the 3M adhesive on your prop nose. Be as acurate to the center as possible. (Note to all the CFM Gurus, Yes, paint and prop noses lower cfm and lifespans, but its for FUN.

Apply RustoleumÂ’s sandable primer

After primer dries, you may notice you have some tiny cracks you missed with the Bondo. Take small dabs of Bondo and fill them again. Let it dry for a few hours and sand everything with 800 and then 1500 grit sand paper.

Now youre ready to paint it!

thanks jinx and mnptech another question how... how would u recommend puttin plexiglass in?, epoxy it to the other side? or drill holes thru both plexi and case and screw it in

thanks

I've used epoxy, silicone, hot glue gun and velcro.

Whether to use adhesives or screws depends mainly on what kind of look you want Swanny.

Keep in mind, you risk cracking or shattering your plexi when drillin holes.

one thing i haven't gotten down: how to cut plexi with a dremel, for me low speeds are worse than high speeds on fumes.

thanks guys, I am gunna epoxy it on, i dont want screws...

anyways. I went to go take off the top panel of the gateway case so I could draw the design on.. well... its plastic it can be a good thing though, less cut off wheels, will probably take one to do the whole design.

Another question, if I decide to paint, should i put the plexi in after or before i paint.

I'd put the plexi in after you have it all painted and finished. Wouldnt want paint dribbles on the plexi. Thats just me tho.