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| | #1 (permalink) | |
| Alright so i basically messed up my case mod not horribly but enough that i need some ideas on how to fix it. I cut a hole for a window mod in the top of my case but it seems both my measures were off as the hole is bigger than the window even with the molding on. I am using a 1/4 in C molding found at crazypc.com http://www.crazypc.com/Merchant2/mer...uct_Code=83010 Does anyone know where I can find this same type of molding just a little wider?? Or any ideas how to make the window work with the bigger hole?? I dont want to get new plexy glass because there is already a fan hole with the window kit that I bought. The pics included are ways i made it fit by doubleing over the molding but it looks horrible. | ||
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| | #2 (permalink) | |
| Bummer dude! Umm... I'd STRONGLY suggest biting the bullet and getting a fresh piece of plexi (maybe get 2, just in case?) and tracing the original window/fan hole onto it then adding a smidgen (i.e. slightly less than a tad) onto the window outline. Slow, steady dremel work should pay off. Alternatively, maybe see if some fan hole edge moulding will fit in there (you could go ghetto and go with some wire sheath instead - I use square audio cable sheath - might be thinner than the edge moulding) http://forums.pcapex.com/showthread.php?t=53385&page=2 Good luck dude - hope it works out for ya! | ||
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| | #3 (permalink) | |
| Just from the look of the pics (and thus a certain margin for error), you'd probably be better off by getting another piece of plexi... I can't tell how far down from the window that X-C PSU is sitting, but I'd even go so far as to NOT put a fan in there, some X-C's have been known to have their cables come out with the slightest pressure/vibration. If you just HAVE to have a fan in the window, you might even have to go with a different case top (if you can even find one for the specific case model you have, and take the time to measure the location where you want the window to go, VERY carefully, so that you don't have one thing blocking the other, etc. Good luck! | ||
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| | #4 (permalink) | |
| Hmmmm, I would just get a new peice of plexi and try cutting it to fit correctly. For the fan hole, you can just get these templates and print them off, find the right size, get the circle cutter attachment for the dremel, and cut it out. As for the moulding, just order the ammout you want, plus about a foot extra to be on the safe side. If in doubt, measure a fifth time. As Masterp said, slow, steady dremel work should pay off. But, from the looks of it, you've got the skills, you're just human like the rest of us. Good luck with it though! | ||
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| | #5 (permalink) | |
| I might forget about the fan hole for now and just put a piece of plexy in and then if i want the fan hole later cut it in. One last question is what would the easiest way to cut the plexy with as little worry as possible for it cracking?? Thanks again for the help and i'll post some finished pics when i do the meshing and such. | ||
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| | #6 (permalink) | ||||||||||||||||||||||||
You should be fine if you use a dremel (will take a while), otherwise, use a jigsaw with the plexi clamped between a couple of pieces of scrap plywood (oh, make sure that the jigsaw blade has HEAPS of fine teeth) | |||||||||||||||||||||||||
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| | #7 (permalink) | |
| You can get a special 'saw bit for plexi... like stated, it has LOTS of fine teeth... I'd go for a fresh piece of plexi as well... maybe you can skip the whole "molding stuff" & make sure your cut is clean so you don't need any of that molding at all.. A bit of filing works wonders! The you could use glue/kit or rivets/nuts & bolts to attach the window... Just a suggestion (I guess it is obvious I dont like window molding... besides on a car..lol..).. TDR | ||
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| | #8 (permalink) | |
| Yes, for actually cutting the peice, use either a dremel or a jig saw. For the dremel, I would get the circle cutter attachment and use it for the round edges, plus use its straight edge attachment for cutting straight edges just to be sure it's perfect. As for the jig saw, use a 14 tpi blade, that should go through the plastic just fine. You can get a set of jig saw blades at home depot for about $10. You'll want a carbon one. See pic, smallest of the black ones. ![]() | ||
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| | #9 (permalink) | ||||||||||||||||||||||||
Small teeth eh? ooops... just attacked mine today with something resembling the top black blade... a beast of blade! guess the fact it was 10mm perspex saved me there! Good luck fixing ur rig! Mark | |||||||||||||||||||||||||
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| | #10 (permalink) | |
| I thought about doing rivets but i dont really have a rivet gun nor do i want to worry about it cracking the plexy and stuff like that. I think i'll stick with the molding. Now all I have to do is figure out if i want to etch over the CD drive and power supply or use some mesh. | ||
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| | #12 (permalink) | ||||||||||||||||||||||||
What about putting windows in your PSU and CD drive? ![]() You can use glue - no pesky moulding either ![]() | |||||||||||||||||||||||||
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| | #14 (permalink) | |
| The CD drive window is really neat, I mean, seriously, what is cooler than being able to see something move inside your computer when you put in a CD or start a game? Here is a link on how to do it, sorry for the off site link: http://casemodgod.com/Howto-story--24.html Anyway, good luck. | ||
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| | #15 (permalink) | |
| hmm looks easy enough and i'll be able to use the left over plexy from the new top window to do the CD drive mod. now I have to look at my PSU to see if i can mod it or not cause i believe I installed it upside down so i might not be doing any cutting to the bottom of that so instead i'll think of somethin interesting to put over there probably light wise. Maybe some lazer led's?!?!? | ||
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| | #16 (permalink) | ||||||||||||||||||||||||
Good luck dude! Oh, on the PSU thing, don't open it up unless you've had it completely disconnected for at LEAST 24 hours Those things pack a punch... err.. zap if you short the capacitors with yourself ![]() | |||||||||||||||||||||||||
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| | #17 (permalink) | ||||||||||||||||||||||||
Ok, that sounds great. I agree with MasterP, wait at least 24 hours before opening it. You actually don't even have to remove the board from the PSU, but it is still a good idea to wait. I would love to see what you do with this thing, I'm sure you'll do great. Good luck. | |||||||||||||||||||||||||
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| | #18 (permalink) | |
| well i've already opened it before and got a nice zap from it so i'll make sure to wait the 24 hours if i open it again lol. Last thing I ahve to do is figure out some of the wire management issues I have with the side window cause im unsure how to hide some of the cables with the top window. Here is the side window pic . . . Is the wire management good or should i try to do some more with it?? Last edited by swimsfast99; 11-January-06 at 05:38 PM.. | ||
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