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| | #1 (permalink) | |
| Ok here is the case I ended up with on a trade off I did a website and got this (mainly for the internals) The case in my opinion is oogly but I can actually see some potential. I was wanting to get suggestions and share concerns that maybe some of the Mod God's can answer for me. Ok first here are some pics of the case in all its (cough) glory And yes the pics of the mobo was on and the camera stopped them lol ![]() The case is all metal except the front of course which is plastic. the right side panel and top panel is mounted with revits. The main door is metal but is pretty thin. The main panel being thin worried me about how to mount a window.. I wanted to use molding with locking strip to mount the window because I though the panel having the ability to flex easy would pop epoxy right off if it flexed. Other than this I would like opinions on possible mods for the case all around.. I already figure on a blow hole and I want to attempt to dust proof the case but I am not sure how to go about that since there are holes out the @$$ in the case... As far as the front goes I was thinking (first thought when I seen the case) was to take the weird dark gray thing off the left side and and cut a hole from behind where it was to allow a CC to shine both inside and on a piece of lexan that is frosted to give it a more even lighting effect. I am planning on a black green theme (since that is what I like). I am not sure what to do about the USB port door as I hate it and would like to nix it all together but not sure how. I have 4 USB port connectors on my mobo and planned to use them all but I thought I would use two on a baybus type design and maybe put the other two in back since I only need 2 in front. Ok I will quit rambling on lol.. this is already a long post I guess.. Suggestions welcome Oh and if you want to tell me how ugly the case it I don't care lol ... This is a first so its just for learning anyway.. | ||
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| | #4 (permalink) | |
| That case is like a clean slate, it's very plain and straight, therefore has a lot of potential for modding. You have a lot of room for a blowhole, try a single large fan like a 92mm job, so it will move a lot of airflow and still be relatively quiet. If you want to get rid of power switches/existing LED indicators/USB ports, remove the metal and plastic parts, then fill in the remaining holes with 5-minute epoxy after taping the backs of the holes with masking tape. The epoxy will fill the hole and will dry to a hard, plastic-like substance. For further work, do a few layers with bondo and sand it smooth (finish off with at least 400 grit or higher, and do the rough work with any kind of coarse grit, maybe 100 or so). Once painted, no-one will know there used to be a port/hole/button there. ![]() The case is screaming to be painted, and black with green accents would look great on any case! Then, you could use bright green LEDs, which will look much better on black/green than they will on beige. And paint EVERYTHING, not just the case; do the drives, bay covers (or perhaps stealth the drives), removable bay cover, etc. Keep your window design to straight lines, since this case has no curved lines. I remember back in the muscle-car days there were a few basic rules for painting cars: -for cars with angular, straight bodies (like a late-70's Monte Carlo or Buick Regal), use straight-line paint designs. -for cars with flowing, curvy lines (like a Camaro or Corvette), use curvy designs. -in either case, accentuate whatever lines the car body had with your paint design. It looks crappy when you see a Camaro, for example (I saw a few) with straight line designs (like a lightning bolt design up the side of the car, gawd that looked stupid), or a straight-bodied car with a curved-line paint scheme. Accentuate what you have, don't try and make it something it ain't. The same goes for cases, IMHO. Have fun with it, you have a nice blank canvas there! | ||
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| | #5 (permalink) | |
| You can also do a complete front bezel replacement with an underlayer of laminated carbon fiber or some other material, (.McMaster Carr Supply) with a plexi top layer mounted with mobo stand-offs. Or some painted design underneath. A lot of possibilities. I see room for 4" LCD flush mounted on the side, or the front bottom. A Fanbus can be mounted vertically into the case front along one side instead of in the usual drive bay location. Coming up with ideas is easy once you "break out of the box" and eliminate the image that is current, and start seeing it as a new thing Last edited by lcpiper; 17-September-02 at 03:06 PM.. | ||
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| | #6 (permalink) | |
| I was unable to get up to Lowes today (rain and my lowrider do not mix) but anyway I was wondering whats the best size for the plexi/lexan and what to use to cut it.. I have a friend that told me that regular plexi when in air and warm can change color and distort and reguardless when it gets older it turns kinda opaque whiteish.... Oh and what kind of windows trim stuff or just I just go with the epoxy. I am afraid when I took the side off it would flex ad pop the plexi and epoxy apart... Thanks for the great ideas.. I will be starting on it tomorrow | ||
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| | #7 (permalink) | |
| I would think that 1/8" acrylic/plexi would be thick enough. If you're just going for a simple cut, a hacksaw with a metal-cutting blade would be fine. Just make sure to take your time and not rush it; plexi/acrylic (same thing) is prone to chipping/cracking. I was able to cut out a cross design in 1/8" plexi but I took my time and didn't rush. I gently worked it with a metal file after cutting it to get smooth edges. Lexan/polycarbonate (same thing) is much more durable. Don't have much experience with that, aside from R/C car bodies (which are much, much thinner). Make the clear part at least an inch wider on all sides than your window cut, and use rivets, screws/nuts, or even long strips of velcro to hold the window in place. I wouldn't glue it on unless it was a last resort. | ||
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