I'm going to add a handle i'm buying at Lowes today.


I'm wondering, about drilling through the case......

I drilled through some metal (a large heatsink/laptop holder) and it was a horrible job. Really not clean at all.


Any suggestions how drilling? What about torque and speed and all of that?

Thanx

Slow and steady wins the race. Use a lubricant as well to keep the metal and drill bit from heating up. After you have finished drilling take a drill bit several sizes to large and twist it in the hole with your hand. Do this to both the outside and inside of every hole and it will clean up those holes.

Do as Capt.Planet said, but just use a small bit first to guide the bigger bit or use a punch.




Edited to sound better.

For accuracy, try using a centering punch before drilling the holes.

Quote: Originally Posted by musclecars&computers As Capt.Planet said, but just use a small bit first then go up to the hole size u want.

No you use the size you want. After you are done you take one thats to larze like 5 sizes to big and you twist it in the hole with your hand to clean up the edges and get all the burrs off of it.

Cap'n, I often use that same technique to help prevent a bit from skipping. If a smaller bit drifts across the surface, the larger bit will remove the marks...unless you get really wild with it. In materials that are tough to drill, you can make some adjustments by filing out the smaller hole to fix any inaccuracy. Once it's centered again, the larger bit stays centered.

For specific bits, try the DeWalt or Black & Decker "bullet" tipped. Much like a brad point bit for woodworking, they stay centered better than high-speed steel bits do. For larger holes you can also use a stepping bit normally used for electrical work, which works much like the small-to-larger bit technique.

The technique the Cap'n described can also be accomplished with a countersink bit, a bit of emery paper or a fine file.

Quote: Originally Posted by Cpt.Planet No you use the size you want. After you are done you take one thats to larze like 5 sizes to big and you twist it in the hole with your hand to clean up the edges and get all the burrs off of it.

It's called a pilot hole. Don't argue w/ me on the matter, my grandfather was a machinest.

Quote: Originally Posted by musclecars&computers It's called a pilot hole. Don't argue w/ me on the matter, my grandfather was a machinest.

That was him not you on the other hand I have actual experience with the matter. I have worked for my father on and off for the past 5+ years. We have done everything from build race cars from the ground up to building a new body for a fire truck.

Its not a Pilot hole. Read what I wrote. You can use a pilot hole then use the drill bit size you want and make the hole. After you do that you take a bit that is to big and you take it in your hand and twist it in the hole to get rid of any of the burrs from drilling.

Word its a little different than countersinking. You can use any type of bit that is larger then the one you used in the drill.

The "hole" point being...

Drill the hole to the size that you need for the screws that came with the handle.

To clean up the edges, there are several options available, use what works best for you...

Thank u GrandpaNoob72, me and Cpt.Planet resolved our issue in IM. we both agree on both ways, there was a missunderstanding of the wording so i edited my post. We called Truth's.

As for Metomeya don't let this bother u from ur work or pimprig.

Quote: Originally Posted by Cpt.Planet Word its a little different than countersinking. You can use any type of bit that is larger then the one you used in the drill.

Oh, OK Cap'n. I have a countersink with a handle mounted to it exactly for the purpose of deburring the edges of drilled holes...but I'll use a drillbit by hand instead.



The only difference Cap'n is that a drillbit tip is on a shallower angle...and has no handle. Sure, the bit will work in a pinch, but the countersink is easier...if you have one.

Oh, and M&C...it's "machinist".

Glad to hear it, MC&C... I just thought a little humor might help defuse the situation a little bit... For whatever it's worth, rep to you both for posting some good ideas/suggestions, and for thinking it over and doing the IM thing, not hijacking the thread into a flame war on each other.

you guys are aguing about 2 different things, M&C is talking about a pilot hole, and capt planet is talking about deburing after your done drilling a hole

Quote: Originally Posted by me_john85 you guys are aguing about 2 different things, M&C is talking about a pilot hole, and capt planet is talking about deburing after your done drilling a hole

Ya I know what you both are talking about, seems like it was just a bit of a misunderstanding.


Anyways, making a pilot hole, can I just hammer a tiny nail to get the hole, or there is a better way?

What happens of my drill overheats? Will mineral oil act as a good lube?

If u don't want a pilot hole use a punch or just a big nail to make a spot where the drill bit wont slip. As for lubs for the bit that keeps the drill bit sharp, wd-40 is what i normally use.

got it, i'll post a picture once i get my digital camera back from a friend

I may be repeating some info that other Pimps have posted (sorry) , but here goes anyway:

In my line of work we need to drill holes with a location tolerance of +-.015" and size tolerance of +-.002" I realize some of this is overkill for drilling a computer case, but maybe some of this will help in other projects as well.


When drilling holes that need to be clean and accurate I like to:

Use a centerpunch for accuracy. (Don't bang on an unsupported piece of sheet metal you'll deform it. What I sometimes do is take a small drill and twirl it by hand where I want the centerpoint. In soft aluminum this is usually enough for a drill starting point.)

If hole is bigger than 1/4 inch start with a smaller drill. Drill large holes in steps.

There are drill with built in pilots and centerpoints, but you can't always find them in the size you need so learn good drilling techniques.

Use a drill press when possible. Use a bushing bar when a drill press is not feasable.

Hold the drill motor straight.

Drill steel slowly, the harder the steel the slower. You can go a bit faster with aluminum, but don't rush it. With some practice you'll get a "feel" for your speed and feed requirements.

Steady, easy pressure.

Use lubrication. Oils better than nothing, I prefer cutting pastes like Boe-Lube or waxes like Do-All Tool Saver.

Use a good sharp drill. The easiest way to kill a project is using a dull tool. ANY cutting tool that is dull is not only a sure fire way to ruin your work, but it's dangerous too.

SAFETY GLASSES PLEASE!!!! DON'T GRAB THE CHIP STRIPS WITH YOUR FINGERS!


The cleanup of the hole edge can be done with a countersink either with a drill motor or by hand. But bear in mind that with thin metals, using a counter sink will increase your hole size if you are not careful.
The ULTIMATE type of manual hole deburring tool is shown below. Great for thin sheet metals up to 1/8". I find mine invaluable. (Heavy duty three blade non-telescoping) These tools can also be used for things like finish deburring a fan opening or window opening, provided the real "rough stuff" has been filed out.

It's an excerpt from McMaster Carr catalog.
www.mcmastercarr.com

Every Pimp should check out McMaster online. Great tool resources and also a lot of material and fabrication info.

A deburring tool will not clean up the INTERIOR of the hole. If for some reason you need to do that, you would drill a few thousands smaller and use a reamer. The reamer does not cut the actual hole, but polishes and gives the finished tolerance required size to the hole. You would probably not need to do this for computer modding work.....

Deburring Tools

Deburring Tools and Blades Blades have smooth 360° swivel action which allows them to rotate freely and automatically follow the contours and edges of any workpiece. Additional blades can be stored in the tool handles. All blades are high-speed steel, unless noted. Deburring Tools Standard Duty Tools— Tools have a pull-down locking collar for quick blade changes. Telescoping blade holders lock at various lengths and reach into holes up to 5" deep. Blades can be inserted into blade holders at 90° for cross-hole deburring. Choose tools with a tough plastic handle or a knurled aluminum handle. Tools include a telescoping blade holder and two standard duty blades (Nos. 4289A12 and A13 shown below). Use with standard duty blades only. Heavy Duty Tools— Jobs that require extra pressure are no problem for these large, heavy duty tools. Handle is plastic. Use with heavy duty blades only. Three-Blade Tools— Pull down the locking collar to change blades. All come with three heavy duty blades ( 4289A14 , A15, and A17) shown below. Telescoping tool looks the same as the standard duty plastic-handle tool. Adjustable blade holder lets you reach into holes up to 5" deep. Nontelescoping tools have blades that fit directly into the handle. Five-Blade Tool— Depress the locking button to change blades. Furnished with these heavy duty blades: Nos. 4289A14 , 4289A15 , 4289A51 , 4253A24 , and 4253A25 shown below. Standard Duty Two-Blade Telescoping Tool with Plastic Handle Heavy Duty Three-Blade Nontelescoping Tool Each Standard Duty Telescoping Tools Two-Blade Plastic Handle 4289A33 $8.03 Two-Blade Aluminum Handle 4289A11 13.34 Each Heavy Duty Tools Three-Blade Telescoping 4289A34 $8.60 Three-Blade Nontelescoping 4289A71 8.89 Five-Blade Nontelescoping 4253A16 9.10 Heavy Duty Five-Blade Nontelescoping Tool