I'm sure every serious modder has experienced this...your case mod is coming along nicely, in fact, it's ahead of schedule...and then, picky niggling details crop up, putting low-rider-stripping speed-bumps in your path! I want to hear some of these logistical or other details that threw you for a loop and made you have to really think, and ultimately delay your completion date.

Here's a few of mine...

-I was just humming along, doing a custom front USB port mod on a 3.5" floppy cover, using my motherboard's included USB bracket add-on. Had the USB holes marked, drilled, filed to smooth, and everything was lined up nice...then I had to figure out how to attach the card to the floppy cover. Not too much time later, I'd measured out a couple of holes to drill it...but I was stupid and measured the holes from the back side of the floppy cover (cuz it was easier)...and when I went to match holes, it was out-of-whack! Needless to say, that cost me an hour or two to sort out. Unfortunately, after all the work, I discovered that my USB ribbon cable was about 6 cm too short...easy to replace, but wasted time!

-I wanted to have a cross-shaped acrylic piece lit from the center area so that the edges would light. I was planning to paint both surfaces (top & bottom) chrome, to make them as reflective as possible, except for a small circle on the underside where my LED array would attach. 2 problems occurred. (1) I needed to fine-grit-sand the acrylic cross before applying the paint. The silver paint looked great on the OUTSIDE, but from the reverse side, all you would see is a dull, buffed surface with silver painted over it. Still, I gave it a try, but it was not edge-lighting at all. (2) I decided to then raise the cross off the panel a tiny bit, just enough so that I could backlight it (painting the entire cross silver). In a moment of insight, I decided that motherboard stand-offs would be perfect. So, due to the softness and fragility of that Original Chrome paint (on acrylic, anyway), I had to re-sand. I sanded a bit too hard, and that's when I discovered the REASON for the paint's softness; it turns into a gum-like layer, when applied directly to acrylic! And was it easy to sand that bastage right down to the acrylic?! HELL NO! I ended up having to take a friggin' razor blade and scrape the mofo'in ****e off!! Regular silver paint worked fine and with a clear-coat, was durable too. (Of course, that was after wasting 2 or 3 days to fix.)

-I was having problems figuring out how to get properly-functioning custom Power & Reset buttons installed. My reset button (which I thought would be more difficult) turned out to be easier. The cable (on the switch end) ends in a small plastic box, and I could figure out no way to properly secure this to the inside of the front bezel. I ended up drilling a hole close to the size of the square, then spent a half-hour X-Acto'ing the hole into a clean square into which the box would fit, to be glued there with some 5-minute epoxy. At least THAT problem is solved!

But the power switch is giving me more headaches, even though at first glance, it looked like an easier problem to solve. First, the way it was re-mounted (using existing holes drilled in the case beneath the front bezel) meant that the actual pushy-thing (LOL, I have no name for it, so shaddup!) was off-center. I couldn't simply re-drill new mounting holes, because I wanted the power button in a very specific location (where the case badge would normally go). I've figured out a way to mount it centrally to the hole I'd drilled, but have yet to figure out how to get a properly functioning power switch working. It'll eventually come to me, hopefully another moment of insight...but I was hoping to be complete within the week.

-I discovered that one of my side panel exhaust fans makes contact with my internal CPU/HSF ductwork, JUST ENOUGH so that I couldn't properly attach the damn panel! It would close 95% of the way...but no more! ARRGH! So now a pair of Sunon 80mm x 15mm low-profile fans must be ordered (only need one, but I want the two exhaust fans to match, of course).

I figured out the installation of the computer 'feet', which turned out to be easier than expected.

Bloody details! Let's hear some of your trials and tribulations with details, logistics that you overlooked, oopses that you made, and how you solved them! Should make for an interesting topic.

When I did the window cutouts for Midnight Blue, everything was going great. I was watching drag racing on TV and slamming a couple of beers. I drew the windows out on the side panel and was pleased with the shape so I broke the dremel out and started cutting. It went smooth as silk. After I was done I smoothed and beveled the edges then decided to attach it to the case to see how it would look and DOH! I had the door upside down when I drew the windows out. That's when I decided Blue would have a suicide door. Major PITA.

Measure five times, cut twice.

I'd measured a lot, but what I didn't do was think enough. From above, the hole I'd measured and cut for the top exhaust fan cleared my intake duct by a small amount. The fan, once installed, would not even be obstructed by the duct, which makes a 90-degree bend just before where the fan will be. What I didn't account for is the thickness of the 80mm fan, once attached to the inside of the panel! It was just enough of an oversight to prevent the side panel from sliding home all the way. Only about a third of an inch left to go! A low-profile fan will cure that.

But it illustrates a point; don't just rely on measurements. You have to do some test-fits and really think it through before cutting or doing anything semi-permanent.

Ahhhhhh Details from the master of details. Let me tell you how broken concentration, Trial and Error took me through 4 Motherboards, 4 CPU's , and two memory sticks to get Poseidon up and running.

First my Pitiful Life. I work nights in the Computer portion of a General Motors Truck Plant. Go in around 5 get off usually around 2:30 - 3:00 AM, whenever production stops. So when I get home i'm usually worn out. And itÂ’s the wee hour of the morning. However thatÂ’s when I need to work on this ****. As if I try and go to bed I never get up in time to get things done. So my concentration is usually half there. NEVER EVER BUILD YOUR SYSTEM UNDER HALF CONCENTRATION.

Okay so the story based on the times I set above. I decide to jump head first into water-cooling. Not knowing a whole lot I order a Koolance PC2601 with all the options from FrozenCPU.com. I also order a Soyo Dragon plus Mobo an, AMDXP 2000 CPU, and 512MB of system memory. The rest of the stats are unimportant.

So I get every cooler known to man. I read the instructions and everything goes great. I install the CPU and the Mobo and get everything working first time out the gate. Wow I am impressed. Nice system too. But I realized I forgot to take pics of the water block for the CPU. I can't review the case without the pics. So I take the water block off and I wipe off the Artic Silver since it wouldnÂ’t be a good pic with that all over the bottom. I take the pics and put the water block back on. Turn on the computer and I see smoke and smell something very nasty. WTF. Further Investigation tells me I forgot the Thermal Paste on the XP CPU when putting it back. That was enough to fry the Damn thing within seconds. **** **** ****. So I call up Newegg.com in the am and get an advanced replacement. RMA. Next day air. Along comes the new CPU. This time I want to be careful not to **** it up so I put thermal paste on it. For added safety I purchased a shim as I didnÂ’t want to experience this smell anytime soon. Put the shim on, paste in place, clipped on the CPU cooler. Turned it on. More smoke. **** **** ****. Okay now what did I do. Turns out that Koolance says CPU shims are a no-no. And now there was physical damage to the Motherboard. Soooooo. I sent the Motherboard back with the CPU AGAIN and got a replacement. I need a new Mobo0 and new CPU. To get the new CPU this time I needed $$$$ SO I sold the Koolance as some of you might remember to Insomniac and got a Swiftech H20 Case. The Swiftech was a review unit so no money invested there. Now I got a new case, new. Mobo and new CPU. As you know the Swiftech kit unlike the Koolance mounts to the Board using Vinyl washers and nuts. Well I mounted everything, paste, and skipped the shim. etc. etc... Turned it on, more smoke. No response. God-Damnit what did it do this time. Turns out when I was mounting the Swiftech water kit I had damaged the Motherboard using them pliers. The Vinyl nut severed a trace on the back side of the board. Fried another CPU and another Mobo. Now iÂ’m getting pissed. SO I order the 4th CPU. And a new MSI motherboard the Kt3 Ultra ARU. The 333 boards just hit the market that day. I get the board in and this time mount the Water kit carefully. Paste on the CPU, double check everything. Boot up. It works!!!! Oh wow my eyes are in heaven. SO I decide to clean up the wires. I tuck everything away and decided to run the CD-Rom audio cable behind the motherboard. Looks pimp. Go to turn it on and now thereÂ’s smoke. And the post error for memory is beeping. WTF. How did I do it this time? I just had it working. Checked the CPU no it was fine. THANK GOD. The memory looked ok. But the big burnt spot on the Motherboard below it canÂ’t be good. So I pull the NEW motherboard to RMA and the CD ROM audio cable that I thought was slick tucked behind the Mobo had been penetrated by two pins on the back of the board and carried voltage across to the two contacts. Thus shorting out the board. Wow. ThatÂ’s never happened. And don't I feel dumb. The cable was burnt so I knew that it was the culprit. So RMA get the 4th Motherboard in put it all together following all my learned lessons of what not to do. And being extra careful. By this time I am totally afraid to power up the computer. I felt like the dumbest person ever and thought about just buying a dell. hahaha Turn it on and memory post beeps. **** it ruined the memory too. SO I got a new stick of Corsair memory for review put it in and whalaa it boots. The damn thing runs. I have just gone through 4 Motherboards, 4 CPU's and two sticks of memory to build 1 system. I must say it works great. And I haven't removed the water block from the CPU since. Too afraid. Anyway hope you enjoyed my little story of hell. And how I destroyed mucho equipment.
DW

Wow, D-W, that's a level of frustration "N" degrees worse than what *I* went through! But your audio cable woes will make me take great care whenever placing cables beneath the motherboard in the future (I'll still do it, of course, but I'll take extra precautions that I never did before--just took it for granted that it would be fine).

That just gave me a totally unrelated idea...I wonder how warm the underside of a mobo gets? Why not cut a "window" of sorts, removing a good 3/4 of the metal "floor" of the case where the mobo is placed? You'd keep a good couple inches thick in a perimeter around all your standoffs...maybe 2 small square windows would be better, as most mobos have 6 or more standoffs and some are in the middle).

I wonder how that would aid cooling? Of course, one could install a couple exhaust fans on the 'back side' case panel to help get rid of warm under-mobo air...assuming the bottom gets warm! I would think it does, just like the back side of an AGP card gets warm (and my 'backside fan' cooler helps me overclock higher and stabler, so...why not apply the same idea to a mobo?)

Ideas, ideas! I think I'll do that one with the Hot-Rod case...

wow digital, thats just insane.. very sorry to hear that.

LOL D-W, that was your 666th post too...dee-doo-dee-doo-dee-doo (text-based Twilight Zone theme)!

Coel:

Ha I hadn't noticed that before.

Along your line of cooling the mobo from the rear. I have been trying to find a way to acomplish just that. Not sure what benifit it would have yet except to cool the dead air in the case. But researching the Idea of the dead areas under the cpu core. Maybe at least a hole drilled to allow me to run a proper thermal probe. Maybe take the the board out and power it up. See if anything gets warm.
I was thinking about your case today. God knows I enjoy being the master of tiny detail. How about a nice little Fog cup in each pipe for that extra special detail of smoke coming form the pipes? And lighting within using LED's red to orange in a quick flash would be very pimp. Simulating ignition.
What ya think?

I had cut a hole under the CPU of the Viper case about 2"X2". My temps came down a little bit, but I don't know if the core was any cooler or if my sensor was cooler. I tend to think all I did was cool the mobo sensor down.

ahhh yes..... patience is a virtue..... Argh!

Ive got a self opening door mod that only reveils more work as I progress. One step forward, two step back



(Remembering Sept 11th)

Quote: Originally posted by Digital-World I was thinking about your case today. God knows I enjoy being the master of tiny detail. How about a nice little Fog cup in each pipe for that extra special detail of smoke coming form the pipes? And lighting within using LED's red to orange in a quick flash would be very pimp. Simulating ignition. What ya think?

Very intriguing ideas, D-W! However, anything I'd decide to put inside the pipes would reduce their cooling effectiveness. They're not just for show, and the Panaflo fans are powerful but small, so I want the exhaust airflow to be as efficient as possible. That Hot-Rod case is DEFINITELY going to be an AMD system, because AMD just tends to be more hard-core.
I don't want it to be gimmicky (nothing I've modded is), I want it to look cool AND run cool.

Re: cutting a mobo floor "window" (hehe, we might as well give it a proper name, why not call it a cellar?): one major issue is that mobo floor-pans usually are placed within a half-inch of where the back side-panel slides in. In order to have exhaust fans that aren't slapped on the exterior, one might have to use 15mm low-profile fans. As far as cooling effectiveness goes: anything that reduces the CPU temp is all good!

Ahh yess... the little details. Not quite computer modding, but car modding... I decided to take the yellow reflectors out of my turn signals in the front of my car. I figured it would be an easy job! (experienced modder, I work at Advance auto, I must know what to do, right?)

Jeez...

Ok, I knew what to do but the work bit. To get the lamps off my car i had to first get the plastic radiator cover off... no big deal, just afew plastic trim screws. Then, "crap!" I noticed that I would have to take the whole front bumper off! There was ascrew under the bumper. Drats. Well I get the front bumper almost taken off but there's one screw left on either side that's literally behind the lamps themselves, impossible to get to without taking out the whole fenderwells, but to do that I had to take off BOTH FRONT WHEELS! JEEZ! anyways a hour long project dragged to two days long, with the reassembly of the car the next morning.

Remind me to stick to working on PCs

Only a ricer would need the front bumber and the wheels pulled off to remove some reflectors from the headlights. I am guessing right eh?

As soon as he said "take the yellow reflectors out" I was thinking that. He basically disassembled his car's entire front end, just so he could have clear signal lenses (assuming he didn't put in blue LEDs, like I saw this one wingnut do...you could barely see his car signalling, 50 yards away).

Hope it was worth it.

Tis the same fool that makes me work even harder to finish that 350 to drop in my regal. Show these fools what REAL horsepower is.

I work at Advance Auto too in IS Support at the Corporate office. You guys in the stores HATE us dont you? LOL it always sounds like you guys want to murder my children with a handful of broken glass forcefed down their throats whenever you call us up =P

#1 I am most definitely NOT a ricer. They come in my store all the time and I consitantly laugh at them while they buy their "L.E.D" windshield washer lights and their 6 foot tall double wings (exxaggeration) for their honda civics.

No I have done no stupid "mods" to my car like blue turn signals (I honestly swear I had a man try to buy some today from me. I told him they were illegal and he needed to now go to wal-mart, because I wasn't selling them to him if they were always on) (will the man who works in home office please ignore that)

This was nothing more than a bored computer modder (me) who saw a FAQ on www.newtiburon.com about removing those yellow lens things. Looks alot easier on their website.

Oh and Abissling, yes, hahaha, we collectively hate you all there at "home office" lol! I had a employee meeting tonight and had to suffer through another dang video ya'll put out to us. At least that one chick is pretty hot in those videos or we would never even watch them. lol!

On a funny side note, I do buy all the ricer neon lights and the wire mesh and all that stuff... but it goes on the PC case, not the car! haha.

Digital-world, my car gets around 35+ MPG, and costs 12K with a 10 year b2b warranty, that's why I bought it! About the regal, what tranny are you using, and what carb and all? Gimmie some data here. Got a good buddy at the shop with a Camaro, he's got the 5.7, put the EFI kit in there, and he added new cams, got the heads ported, polished, he's done a butt load of work on that sucker, I love to ride in it, it's freaking insane. Love to see the little civics try to race him, it's funny. Wish I could afford one! (one day.. will save all my money in the Marines)

I pulled somethin' like that Coel...

I'm cutting up my drive cages to hide my wiring... I marked it out with masking tape, whipped out my dremel and got to work...

On the wrong friggin' side!!!

I only need a little gray paint to fill in the slice 'cause I realized it early, but it still pisses me off.