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Old 04-December-04, 07:45 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Window Inlay?

Has anyone ever seen or heard of cutting a channel into a window (say a lexan not sure whats the most common) and using some sheet metal like a copper for an inlay pattern?

Ive been considering this for my first mod and have extensive wood working background but am unsure of how the window material will react to me violating it with a router?
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Old 04-December-04, 07:48 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Make sure it's cell cast acrylic and it should respond half way well.
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Old 04-December-04, 07:59 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Anybody know how well it'll react to temp changes? If the metal expands more than the acrylic when the furnace kicks in, hilarity could ensue. Well maybe not quite hilarity...
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Old 04-December-04, 08:26 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Sportbilly
Anybody know how well it'll react to temp changes? If the metal expands more than the acrylic when the furnace kicks in, hilarity could ensue. Well maybe not quite hilarity...

how much of a temperature change are you predicting? things shouldn't be expanding THAT much in your computer
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Old 04-December-04, 09:16 PM   #5 (permalink)
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I'm not predicting any particular amount, just throwing a possible problem out there, that's why it's posed as a question

Incidentally, you *could* see some quite large changes, esp if the machine is ever moved house with, but under normal running conditions, small changes I would imagine.
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Old 04-December-04, 11:06 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Make sure it's cell cast acrylic and it should respond half way well.

Whats the availability of cell cast acrylic and where would I be able to aquire some, a hobby shop or hardware store?
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Old 04-December-04, 11:14 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Whats the availability of cell cast acrylic and where would I be able to aquire some, a hobby shop or hardware store?

McMaster-Carr sell lots of different kinds and in lots of different sizes. Use their search function, been a while since I've been there, but navigation can be a bear.

US Plastic also sell a lot of different kinds, heard good things about them too.

EDIT: Try the yellow pages too, a lot of major cities have specialty plastic suppliers, look under "plastic" I guess. Not sure if Home Depot or similar would carry cast acrylic.
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Old 04-December-04, 11:29 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Not sure if Home Depot or similar would carry cast acrylic.

Our Home Depot doesn't carry any, but I understand they carry extruded which will shatter/crack like crazy.
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Old 04-December-04, 11:59 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Our Home Depot doesn't carry any, but I understand they carry extruded which will shatter/crack like crazy.

Sounds to me like I may be getting in deeper than I should for a first mod.... but than again Ive never been one to back down from a challenge . Rest assured as soon as I get the funding youll see some pics of an inlaid window heheh................ I hope.
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Old 05-December-04, 12:20 PM   #10 (permalink)
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There is something similar to what you want to do in this thread...... plus this mod rocks the llama's sox!

http://forums.pcapex.com/showthread.php?t=18141
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Old 05-December-04, 12:40 PM   #11 (permalink)
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I'd recommend using a copper, tin, gold, or silver foil for your inlay material, using a clear bonding agent (epoxy would probably work). If you go slow with the router and use cell cast, it shouldn't be THAT hard to accomplish. Another possibility is getting extruded plexi and sanwiching your foil design between two pieces. done right it would make a very nice embedded effect.
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Old 05-December-04, 12:47 PM   #12 (permalink)
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you could also use polycarbonate. It's shatter proof (or darned near). What sort of tools were you thinking about using to do the channel? If i'm not mistaken (always an option ) Lexan is polycarbonate.
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Old 05-December-04, 01:05 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by godfoot
There is something similar to what you want to do in this thread...... plus this mod rocks the llama's sox!

http://forums.pcapex.com/showthread.php?t=18141

I read an article about him in the minneapolis paper... wow good to know hes on these forums maybe I can talk him into giving me some first hand trianing heheh. And that mod is definataly the bees knees.

Quote:
Originally Posted by DuplexEmotions
Another possibility is getting extruded plexi and sanwiching your foil design between two pieces. done right it would make a very nice embedded effect.

That sounds interesting, Ill have to give that some thought Id get the effect but not the risk involved.

droeblek9you could also use polycarbonate. It's shatter proof (or darned near). What sort of tools were you thinking about using to do the channel? If i'm not mistaken (always an option ) Lexan is polycarbonate



Ill be using a Router (http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/produ...id=00926845000) using this bit (http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/produ...26+Accessories)
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Old 05-December-04, 01:24 PM   #14 (permalink)
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those'll work (nice router, BTW..PC r0x0rz ). If you use polycarb, just make sure that you clamp/secure the h3ll out of it. Polycarb has a tendency to "grab"....on the bright side, though, if your router slings it across the shop it's shatterproof
I've actually used a similar setup to do basic (i mean basic) machining of acryllic and polycarb at a prior job. Make sure that your bit is new/sharp (do not use a bit that has been used on wood...if it's carbide tipped, it'll still work, but it'll make your life easier if it's as sharp as possible...less melt). Experiment with your feed rate. The key is to get a clean cut without a lot of melt (preferrably none). If you clamp the work piece adequately and your feed rate is ok, you shouldn't have any probs at all (actually, it'll be pretty darned easy). Good luck with it
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Old 05-December-04, 08:12 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DuplexEmotions
I'd recommend using a copper, tin, gold, or silver foil for your inlay material, using a clear bonding agent (epoxy would probably work). If you go slow with the router and use cell cast, it shouldn't be THAT hard to accomplish. Another possibility is getting extruded plexi and sanwiching your foil design between two pieces. done right it would make a very nice embedded effect.

Nice ideas DE, the foil inlay would only wrinkle if temp turned out to be an issue, which is prob not going to happen anyway, but it's good to know it's covered. I like the sandwich idea even more, would def look pimp.

EDITED for stupidity, you're dead right Bushido. I need to sleep more.

Last edited by Sportbilly; 05-December-04 at 11:20 PM..
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Old 05-December-04, 10:23 PM   #16 (permalink)
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just a novice oppinion here but wouldnt thinner be better when creating a veneer window?
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Old 07-December-04, 09:01 PM   #17 (permalink)
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I wouldn't think the thickness/thinness would have much to do with it.

But I did have an idea. Use a router for a really shallow cut, maybe like 1/16 of an inch, if not less. And just scrape away at it, Lay down your gold inlay or whatever, and clear coat it all. The clear coat would harden and keep the foil from wrinkling. But I would say the most shallow cut possible is the best way to go. I personally wouldn't cut it at all, but rather just lay the foil down, That stuff will stick to just about anything, and might work just going straight onto the plexi or whatever you use. Then I would go over it all with a thin clear coat.
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Old 07-December-04, 10:47 PM   #18 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by DeadOnShot
I wouldn't think the thickness/thinness would have much to do with it.

But I did have an idea. Use a router for a really shallow cut, maybe like 1/16 of an inch, if not less. And just scrape away at it, Lay down your gold inlay or whatever, and clear coat it all. The clear coat would harden and keep the foil from wrinkling. But I would say the most shallow cut possible is the best way to go. I personally wouldn't cut it at all, but rather just lay the foil down, That stuff will stick to just about anything, and might work just going straight onto the plexi or whatever you use. Then I would go over it all with a thin clear coat.

I think Ill end up borrowning a friends calipers and making an exact depth cut for the inlay and also possibly flush the window to the case itself, that is a much more complex bit of routing than the inlay will be though
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