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Case Modding Forum for general case modding questions and help.

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Old 07-November-04, 09:15 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Window modding without a gasket

Is it possible? I hate gaskets they are a pain to get in and it takes like two people, I was thinking about not using a gasket in my AT mod. How would you secure the window and make it flush with the side of the case?
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Old 07-November-04, 09:21 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by j-dogg
Is it possible? I hate gaskets they are a pain to get in and it takes like two people, I was thinking about not using a gasket in my AT mod. How would you secure the window and make it flush with the side of the case?

i was wondering this a while too but never bothered posting. i was thinking maybe a raised piece of acrylic? the windows on my old chieftec dragon case were flush with the metal and i never figure out how they did it.
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Old 07-November-04, 09:32 PM   #3 (permalink)
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I guess you could get a thick piece of acrylic and then mill it down in spots to create a "step" in the acrylic that would slide through the whole in the side of the case. Then a little adhesive on the part that will come in contact with the side of the case and your set.
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Old 07-November-04, 09:32 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Flush windows = recessed plexi.
I have a premod window on one of my cases, and the plexi has been recessed on the edges to allow it remain even with the side of the case (the exposed window is thicker than the portion that overlaps the inside of the side panel).
Does that make sense?

EDIT: er...yeah, what aaronkelly said (i must learn to type faster)

Last edited by droeblek9; 07-November-04 at 09:39 PM..
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Old 07-November-04, 09:39 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Well yeah I knew that, but the problem is getting an even cut all around the side of the window, I could do it no doubt but I would most likely have to do it freehand, then I could use machine screws to hold it in and give it that industrial look.
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Old 07-November-04, 09:42 PM   #6 (permalink)
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For a coule of bucks, you could buy a router (will find linkage in a sec) attatchment for the dremel (that would control depth). To control straight line, you could set up a fence for the edge of the router attachment to run along.

EDIT: I have one of these (it roxorz) http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...335602712&rd=1
or you could get one of these: http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg...?v=glance&s=hi

Geez, i really thought that second link would be cheaper.

Last edited by droeblek9; 07-November-04 at 09:53 PM..
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Old 07-November-04, 10:16 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Routing would be your best bet, but i dunno if you could start with a non super thick piece w/o it warping a lot. I tried for quite a while to figure out how to do this, but gave up and just mounted my window behind, the metal wasn't that thick, so it turned out pretty well. Just sanded the edges and touched up the paint, glued it in behind with silicone rtv.
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Old 07-November-04, 10:40 PM   #8 (permalink)
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sand the metal around your window hole nice and flat then glue the window on to the inside of the door panel...

not as flat as a gasket but alot easier.
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Old 08-November-04, 08:40 AM   #9 (permalink)
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I tried using the Dremel routing attachment to mount a window flush. It's too tricky for me; even going slowly and being as careful as I could, the depth still varied -- the panels are only millimeters thick to begin with. Even worse than that was trying to get the "straight" edges of a routed window to match up with the "straight" edges of the window cut in the case. Ended up using molding after all.

Next time, I'm doing as Cyno said and mounting the plexi behind the panel. That or getting it all professionally milled. Too tricky by hand, but maybe having an actual routing table would help (?).
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Old 08-November-04, 09:57 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Kinda blurrry pics of mine a few posts down. Linky.
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Old 08-November-04, 10:11 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cyno01
Kinda blurrry pics of mine a few posts down. Linky.

Here's a direct link. Lookin' good, Cyno!
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