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Go Back   Apex Community Forums // PC Apex Forums // Cooling // Case Cooling

Case Cooling Questions, info, results for various methods of case cooling.

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Old 12-October-03, 09:31 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default thermometer

what r u pimps using to monitor your temperatures? i currently have an lcd fan controller/ termometer thing from crazy pc and im ditching that becuse it dossnt control enough fans. i ordered a 6 fan controller already and want something to monitor the temps.




and how do you edit youre signature?
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Old 12-October-03, 09:52 PM   #2 (permalink)
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i use motherboard monitor 5
http://mbm.livewiredev.com/


EDIT :

Under navigation, Left side of screen, go to Control Panel, then edit profile
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Old 12-October-03, 10:44 PM   #3 (permalink)
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I don't....I'm watercooled and only running stock.

Also, pertaining to your question...are you talking about a program to monitor the temps from your onboard mobo probes, like the one me_john85 posted, a custom installed tempprobe to monitor temps, or something to actually modify the case/cpu temps, such as a rheostat?
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Old 12-October-03, 10:47 PM   #4 (permalink)
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I use a compunurse advanced stripped out of a hardcano 10. The thermal probe is epoxied to the back of the cpu. The wires run out between the pins on the cpu. I filed a couple of shallow grooves in the zif socket for the wires to sit in so the cpu sits flat.
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Old 12-October-03, 10:51 PM   #5 (permalink)
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antim, i saw that tutorial.... ur a crazy SOB I am gunna do that to my Asus A7N8X Deluxe when I buy an Abit NF-7
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Old 12-October-03, 11:01 PM   #6 (permalink)
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If your referring to the how-to at procooling...I'm not that crazy. The hardcano's come with very thin probe wires. I just used a hobby saw and a jewler's file to create a VERY small grooves between the pins. I would not advocate doing it with a stock compunurse with fat wires.

And taking a dremel with a carbide cutter to a zif socket is foolhardy imho.
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Old 12-October-03, 11:25 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Hell, on the advise of AntiM,
I bought a hardcano 10,stripped the temp gauge out of it and the wires are so thin you can hardly tell the cpu is raised they are less than a 1/64 of an inch...
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Old 12-October-03, 11:32 PM   #8 (permalink)
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You need to change your name, we already have a biohazard. It would be the polite thing to do. If you don't want to be polite we can play it another way.
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Old 13-October-03, 12:23 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Hay Ba thanks... As for the temp I use programs that read it off the die and the mobo. Like me_john said mbm5 is awsome..I also suggest using a probe to slip under the heatsink like the others suggested..
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Old 13-October-03, 01:35 AM   #10 (permalink)
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AntiM, as foolish as it may be, some of us are just that crazy. I suggest what the others have said though, ans using a Compunurse, or better yet something like a Digital Doc.
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Old 13-October-03, 05:37 AM   #11 (permalink)
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XBio, to change your username you need to ask DuckWarrior , our forum moderator. Click on that link, then on "Send DuckWarrior a Private Message".
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Old 13-October-03, 09:58 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Default CHEAP temperature monitoring

Many people like the compunurse because they can mount it anywhere. Under the cpu socket, on the HD, Northbridge, Heatsink, Waterblock.. etc.
The cheapest place on the net for Compunurse's is www.AquaJoe.com
they are 10.99 for a DUAL setup. That is a screen with 2 temperatures for 2 separate thermistors. Check us out. We like them so much, our block is designed to have one inserted into it.
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Old 13-October-03, 10:44 PM   #13 (permalink)
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I believe Zennzzo just posted that link this morning. I'm usually pretty up to date on water blocks. But I haven't seen the AquaGold Before. It looks a lot like John Hills home made pin fin and even more like Blue Coolings block. I'd be interested to know if it performs as well. Any reviews yet? Want one?
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Old 13-October-03, 10:45 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Default Re: CHEAP temperature monitoring

Quote:
Originally posted by ThyKingdomCome
Many people like the compunurse because they can mount it anywhere. Under the cpu socket, on the HD, Northbridge, Heatsink, Waterblock.. etc.
The cheapest place on the net for Compunurse's is www.AquaJoe.com
they are 10.99 for a DUAL setup. That is a screen with 2 temperatures for 2 separate thermistors. Check us out. We like them so much, our block is designed to have one inserted into it.

Way to advertise.
I might have to get me one of those compunurses, but I wouldn't touch that WB with a ten-foot pole. It looks like a wannabe Hoot's block from OCers.com except the maze is shorter, the pins are square, and alot larger, and have much less surface area....which I think will just inhibit the flow and create back pressure. Also I don't think all those pins are even necessary unless you're going to put a pelt on there.

EDIT--Damnit AntiM....always one step ahead, aren't you?

Last edited by lAnonymousl; 13-October-03 at 11:00 PM..
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Old 14-October-03, 12:36 AM   #15 (permalink)
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LOL! you guys have some good recall!
Having been involved in the creation of the BlueBlock and the AquaJoe I can tell you they are VERY close. JoeMac (from Procooing) and I developed BOTH of them personally.

Problems with related blocks are fixed on the AquaJoe. The AquaJoe has Intel anchors as of 10/14. So if you have 2 systems or plan on upgrading, you only change the anchors, not the block.

Now about performance. It was stated that someone wouldn't touch it, BUT if the performance of the hoot fin is any indicator, that places this as a possible #2 block if you can read Bill Adams testing data. Nothing to laugh at. I know the AquaGold beats the maze4 depending on variables (ive tested it.. it does on my machine). On overclockers.com the blueblock is the top tested kit per Joe. Ours is very similar, just with the problems fixed and equal flow through the entire flow channel.

QUOTE:It looks like a wannabe Hoot's block from OCers.com except the maze is shorter, the pins are square, and alot larger, and have much less surface area....which I think will just inhibit the flow and create back pressure. Also I don't think all those pins are even necessary unless you're going to put a pelt on there. END QUOTE

This was actually well in design before anyone knew of the hoot block. As most of our prototypes were made before Hoots initial idea post declaring the idea, and our last prototype created before knowledge of Hoot, I assure you this is no "copy". The pins are square, as they create more turbulence in the water. More turbulence, more heat transfer. The flow is very restricted, but evenly thoughout the entire flow channel. This means a small pump will be able to deliver great results. The blocks that can deliver lower temps rely on pumps priced at 2-3 times what our block can run at. Other blocks also need 1/2 barbs with matching tubing throughout the loop to match ours. (pricey if you don't have the cash to change your entire setup). The surface area of the pins (heat transfer area) far exceeds the Hoot block. And yes.. not only can we deliver better cooling than 90% of the blocks out there on non-IHS cores, we have the same efficiency carried though out the entire bottom of the block, which is a 40X40mm area.

A quote from the Hoot's review via Bill A, in whom AquaJoe has complete confidence and respect..
"Hoot's waterblock is better than almost all commercially available waterblocks, and its performance is not dependant on having a large pump (relatively speaking, it does better at low flows). "

Since the previous posts pointed out similarities and not the owners, I responsd by saying I do not see how this is a bad thing. I do not claim to have the same exact numbers, but I have verified that ours are VERY similar, and with our TEC clamping developed into our base, our block IS one of the most well rounded, all purpose blocks I know of AND ours is avaliable to the public.

But rather than face 100% speculation (which has merit and has been very perceptive on many points), I would challenge anyone to test this block. Many reviews in progress at major sites so far.

As for the compunurses, regardless of agreement with the block conclusions.. we are the cheapest resellers of this product that I have been able to find. (<- another shameless plug). Thanks for your feedback.

Last edited by ThyKingdomCome; 26-October-03 at 12:27 AM..
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Old 14-October-03, 01:13 AM   #16 (permalink)
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*sigh* goddamn i hate long posts.

Anyway, here is a similar waterblock that looks alot like the one you have, except for smaller pins and only managed to work on par with a Maze1.
http://www.overclockers.com/tips321/
Granted, this WB wasn't tested in the most scientific of ways, but you get the idea. I just put yours in between that one and Hoot's....a pretty large performance difference, I know....maybe the maze and inlet/outlet placement makes all the difference.

I won't insult your knowledge of waterblock manufacturing any further, as it is apparent that you obviously have much more experience in that field than I......just stating what looked to be the obvious.

I would be very interested to see this one put on the CPU Die Simulator, or at least have it compared in the same setup with Hoot's, a WW, and a Maze3....but I guess that probably won't happen any time soon.

Also, did you use a pre-manufactured heatsink for it, or did you just cut the whole thing out of a block of copper?

Also....if I might just make one more suggestion...have you tried cutting (if that's how you make them) the pins into a diamond pattern instead of squares? I would think that would allow for the same amount of flow and turbulence while reducing the size of the "dead spots" between the square pins. Either that or going to a spiral maze (Like the Maze3) to eliminate those 90 degree bends.

P.S.--Welcome to Pimprig.....I hope your stay won't just be a visit.

Last edited by lAnonymousl; 14-October-03 at 01:22 AM..
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Old 14-October-03, 02:10 AM   #17 (permalink)
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I must admit, the feedback here is very impressive and the questions just posted show much insight. I think I will have good reason to stick around!

The upper block mentioned has no flow control. Imagine having nothing to control the flow of water. Heat pockets develop. The water moving according to gravity, and restriction channels through the block. Notice that according to that review, with -0- flow control, it could compare to the 1st mazes. To answer your questions, the placement and maze makes ALL the difference. However, I can admit that without the maze and our pin sizes, we obtained satisfactory results, but other variables changed. (can't exactly cover that )

You will get your wish with a comparative review! This is coming up, but I can't elaborate further to protect the reviewers conclusions and setup. Unfortunately the Hoot block can't be compared in the setup, but doesn't need to, since BillA did the testing earlier, and I know of no one who will second guess his precise measurements. I will redirect you to the reviewing site when our block is tested. I can assure you, the results will be well worth the read.

The unit is constructed from a single block of copper completely manufactured in our machines. This way there are no pins to fall out or impede in heat transfer up into the pins. We even control the quality of copper.

As far as diamond pins, they provide no advantage to this design. If you made them the diamond shape, that is just a square rotated 45 degrees. The water still must compete to reach edges in the same fashion as the square. The spacing of the square pins are narrow. Therefore, with the flow directed into the pins from above, the tunneling of the water will be forced into all pins, as 2-3 pin widths cannot contain the flow. The height of the block and pins is important here. The top provides no "free flow" to avoid interaction with the transfer of the hot pins. Therefore, your cool water can not take an alternate route around and out the block without a transfer. More of the waters cooling properties are used in this design.

The pins are large enough to allow vertical transfer of heat into the tops of the pins. If they were thinner pins, the heat couldn't travel and use the pin. This would cap the ability of the block to much narrower transfer zone, and the heat couldn't transfer as fast, due to limited surface area. As the pins are, they have transfer area to spare with a very large transfer zone. So once even the TEC is placed upon the block, an increase to a 225+ watt TEC remains more efficient than a smaller pin.

A complete viewing of the interior can be seen on our website. Also note the holes in the base of the block for the thermistor mount. It travels inside to rest just over the core. The base of the TEC block incorporates this hole as well. You can now measure your block temp and TEC coldplate temp simultaneously. Hence our use of the compunurse dual.
(and I leave this thread back on subject )
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Old 14-October-03, 02:47 AM   #18 (permalink)
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Well well, I would sure like to have one for a review part ,or have one of us do some real-world testing, on our own rigs using the available means for measurements.
I was the one who linked the deal, on compunurses you folks supply, great deal by the way... I wonder how it would stack up against the WW and of course my own baby...DD cooler ver 1.1INTEL (IHSless) or the 3rd model DD ver 1.2 AMD
TKC...welcome to Pimprig
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Old 14-October-03, 07:05 PM   #19 (permalink)
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i want something where i could mount on the front of my case(3.5" is wanted, 5.25" is fine if nescesary) that will monitor my PSU, CPU, HDD, Case, and if possible->RAM & PCI Cards. and thanks for the feedback, and my name is changed under respect and to be polite
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